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HEI Distributor and Alternator, ford 460
K so im a tad stuck, Brought and installed a hei dizzy but i have no idea how to wire it up properly, its 1 wire to the battery and the car runs algud but only way to turn it off is take the wire off. How and where do i put this wire so it turns off when i turn the key off?
Iv been searching all over for a positive wire thats connected to the ignition switch but i can't find ****, I found one wire tested 12vs when key turned on and 0 when turned off but the problem was as soon as i put that wire with the dizzy wire it dropped to like 8 volts and wasnt enuff to start it? like as soon as i touch the wire the the dizzy one it drops voltage . . . . also my alternator . . . how do i test this is working? its not wired up yet i brought a new voltage regulator etc but doesnt seem to work maybe i wired it up wrong? but how can i test that its my wiring or the alternator? iv started the car and put a volt meter directly on the red terminal on the alternator and ground but doesnt show any volts? does the voltage regulator need wired in for the alternator to work ? can someone point me in the right direction to seeing if my alternator is stuffed and how to wire it up properly? I got a diagram from the auto electrician on how to wire it up but it says a wire from the regulator to ignition switch but i cant seem to find a dam positive 12volt wire on the ignition switch the only one i found as soon as i touch the voltage regulator wire to it it drops to 4volts . . . also this is the same wire i tried hooking the hei distributor upto. Grrrrr the stupid guy should of deloomed the engine bay when he took the old engine out its like a million wires everywhere half dont even go anywhere got wires under the dash not hooked up and alsorts, iv got a ford 460 in an xj6 jaguar |
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If you are using the Ford solenoid take a test light and have someone turn the key switch on and off with the test light on the "I" terminal if it goes on and off like it should connect there.
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it has some silver box thing where the battery goes to and then out goes wires to the starter motor and where the old distributor was connected too, but only puts out power to the starter motor and no power when the keys turned on
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il take a picture of the ignition setup i have now and post it before it gets dark
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The solenoid Ford used will look like these pictures they are early and late versions but they will interchange.
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http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/9577/dsc02387c.jpg
Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/1078/dsc02388n.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us ok so That little red wire was the wire that went to my normal distributor but it doesnt works with the hei and doesnt get power when ignition is on? the yellow wire is the wire thats coming off my hei distributor. also that blue wire off the solinoid is going to the starter motor the alternator picture is my alternator and external regulator but 1 wire from the regulator i havent found an ignition switch to hook it upto, but how can i test my alternator works? coz when i put a volt meter on it the alternator doesnt show any volts at all not sure how to test it |
In your second picture the solenoid looks to be just hanging there,you need to bolt it down to ground it,looking down the same way as your picture the HEI should get power from the small terminal to the left.
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Thanks for all the help, i got it all sorted now yay =] turns off with the key and alternator works yus next thing to move onto
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ahh fml, i took my dash out now it wont wind over only unpluged 3 plugs plugd them back in still doesnt wind over grrrr
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I hope you don't mind me saying ... but YIKES!
That electrical system is just plain scary, and the coolant plumbing is worse! Who plugs off a heater hose with a (gasp) spark plug?! I realize that you are installing a Ford engine into a Jaguar, and that nothing appears to be mating up. My thoughts are that if you're going to be using a Ford (Motorcraft) alternator, you should mate that up with a Ford votage regulator, etc ... unless your an electrical wizard that knows exactly how the system works. I've NEVER seen a 2-wire external voltage regulator. A cut-out ... yes, but they are designed for generators on farm equipment. https://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/756460.jpg Wilson # 62-02-5608 (Remanufactured ... about $14.00 retail or NAPA Echlin # VR440 (Brand new ... about $65.00 retail) This is a very typical Ford votage regulator, used on virtually every Ford vehicle from 1965 into the 80's ... anything with an external regulator. The early versions had points, but it was a direct swap to the electronic version. https://partimages.genpt.com/partimages//102400.jpg NAPA Echlin # VRC-428 ($12.50 retail) Voltage Regulator Connector Wiring diagram: (also included below as a PDF file attachment that you can open/view/print using Adobe Acrobat Reader) http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...528004bba3.gif Curious too ... how did you make out with water-pump pulley, etc? |
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