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Old 06-08-2005, 03:57 PM
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HEI question

this weekend i was putting these new hi po parts on my stock distributor and i got the cap off and that when things got bad. it was full of dirt and pine needles then i started to take it apart and the vacuum advance was all striped out by the previous owner then i notice the the bottom piece had a crack in it and was about ready to break. so Ive decided to go to HEI
i keep getting two pieces of advice
1.buy the msd distributor and the ignition control and blaster coil(which isn't not in my budget right now but i could save for it)
2.buy only a crane(or Mallory) distributor and i don't need anything else(is that true)(i could up grade later to if that is an option)
Which is correct
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Old 06-08-2005, 03:58 PM
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o the truck is a 55 chevrolet 3200 with a 1972 350(stroked to a 383)
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Old 06-08-2005, 04:06 PM
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I have a stock HEI distributor, but with the Pertronix upgrade kit. I love it. It actually works better than the Mallory Hyfire ignition box that I had. It starts faster, can open up the gap on the plugs to 45-50 no problems (can't do that with the Mallory ignition box), and just seems smoother. Unless you get the external mount coil from Mallory, you are limited to 5500 rpm with the coil that comes with the Mallory distributor. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-09-2005, 12:05 PM
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go to a local junkyard and see if you can find a decent hei and drop it in until you get the money for a good one.
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Old 06-09-2005, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 455c-10
go to a local junkyard and see if you can find a decent hei and drop it in until you get the money for a good one.
And, you will be suprised how well a good operating stock HEI works............up to 5500 rpm.
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Old 06-09-2005, 05:11 PM
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Hei

Doc here,

Agree on the bone yard HEI only thing I could add is try and get one out of a runner...(fire it up and see how it performs if possible)

If this is to be an UPGRADE from points type, you'll need the Cap (since the coil is in there, ) and the "Batt" wire clipped as far back as you can get it...like 2 foot would be all good...(but maybe not possible)

On the way home make 2 stops.. one at the Local auto-parts store, pickup a new ECM , Cap and rotor For it, Wires for HEI (8 mm) new plugs, and a Can of Gunk...The second stop will be at the local quarter car wash..Gunk it down real good , let it sit for like 5 or 10 minutes, then turn the wash to "Engine Cleaner" and spray it good (1/2 your time) Then switch to rinse and spray it down with the remaining time...

When home and dry, replace the ECM...Don't forget the heat-sink compound! or it will burn up..Check for up and down play...should be none..then install..If it's an upgrade, abandon the stock coil and resistor..hook your "BATT" wire there...and route it over to the HEI..Install your rotor, and transfer the coil from the bone yard cap to the New one...install that..Replace the old wires (which will not be up to par for an HEI (if this is an upgrade) and then replace your plugs ... this time gaping them at 45 (on an upgrade the stock plugs will probably be around 35..)You should be all good..

If you have pine needles and tiny livestock growing on the engine...It sounds like you have bigger issues to address before laying out $200 bucks for a performance distributer...and the HEI is Versatile enough to perform admirably in the intriem...

Doc
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Old 06-09-2005, 09:26 PM
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You are getting old doc.............quarter car wash??????

Where you been?.....I think ours is like 2 bucks now.
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Old 06-10-2005, 07:54 AM
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Wash

Doc here,

Poncho...LOL

Ours takes quarters too...tons of them...

Put in a roll, pull the handle, and if ya get 3 wash buckets on the center pay line....ya win the "Custom" 2 minute Wax Job...

OK,..OK..Let me correct myself to be politically Correct..

Nomenclature : "Non~humanized,Automated,coin-fed,water operated,belt fed,Jet spray induced,Programmable Controller directed, Automotive,Vessel and Motorcycle washing Device"

Or quarter Car wash...

Whichever is easier to remember...LOL

Of course, you CAN opt for the Bill Changer mode...for $5 bucks you get back 5 tokens...once mixed them up with Chuckie Cheese game tokens...kept looking over my shoulder you days in fear the car wash Police would catch up with me...

Doc
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Old 06-10-2005, 09:17 AM
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One thing to consider, when selecting your distributor, is the camshaft. It directly affects the timing that the motor needs to run RIGHT. And the distrubutor selected, SHOULD have the ability to be tuned. Some of the distributors CAN NOT have the mechanical advance adjusted without "Rube Goldberging" it.

Case in point: 330hp/350 GMPP crate motor. A stock distributor will let the car run, but it will run like a POS. That motor NEEDS 18 degrees of initial timing w/ 36 degree total (plugged vacuum). Do that with a stock distributor, and you get 18-42 or 12-36. Either good low end/preignition, or lousy off idle/decent top end. It needs the big advance because of low relative volumetric efficiency at low RPM.

You should consult a decent shop to have WHATEVER distributor performance curved, if you have anything more than a stock cam.
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Old 06-10-2005, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
Doc here,

Poncho...LOL

Ours takes quarters too...tons of them...
Yeah...thought about that after. I forgot that we have the dollar and 2 dollar coins (Loonies, Twonies) here in Canada..........a carwash costs $3/spray here.
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