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Old 12-08-2007, 01:48 PM
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Heidts Mustang II installed, a couple of Qs PICS!

Well,
I just about have the Heidts MII finished up in my 35 Chevy Master.

All the parts ar there, the only trouble spot I had was I had to cut almost 2 coils off of the springs.
The question I have is, I went to put the power rack on and there just does not seem to be enough room to get any attachment to the unit. (see the last pic). There is less than 1/2 inch from where the input shaft comes out of the rack to the crossmember. The rack is also centered on the crossmember. I also had to trim away some of the flange that is on the rack by the input shaft. Does this look right? Why would Heidts tech suport not be available on the weekend? Its a late model Mustang unit that comes with the hub-to hub kit.

Mark














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Old 12-08-2007, 01:55 PM
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Look's very nice mark!!!
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Old 12-08-2007, 03:21 PM
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What no strut rods? Are you crazy?!!! LOL . Seriously it looks real good. Most tech lines are closed on weekends. You could trim the crossmember at input shaft and quarter a pipe to weld back in. This would give clearance and put back support and look nice too.
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Old 12-08-2007, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedydeedy
What no strut rods? Are you crazy?!!! LOL . Seriously it looks real good. Most tech lines are closed on weekends. You could trim the crossmember at input shaft and quarter a pipe to weld back in. This would give clearance and put back support and look nice too.
I was thinking about that, just wanted to make sure this was right before I did any more cutting.

Nope, no strut rods, Heidt's says to only use them with the stock a-arms.
Mark
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Old 12-08-2007, 04:10 PM
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Looks good. I will be installing a unit from Heidts on mine so I am interested how the customer service is.

Why did you cut the springs down? Did you simulate the front end weight or did you cut them for some other reason?
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Old 12-08-2007, 04:26 PM
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Just wondering, aren't you supposed to have a cutout, like a C-notch, in the front frame rail where the rack boots are touching the frame rails?
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Old 12-08-2007, 04:29 PM
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No word on customer service yet, you don't deal with them when you order, you have to order from a dealer, luckily there are a few near me.
I had to cut the springs because they were WAY too tall. I couldn't fit them, even with a spring compressor. The instructions state that you can cut up to 2 coils off.

Mark

Last edited by marks914; 12-08-2007 at 04:50 PM.
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Old 12-08-2007, 04:31 PM
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Depending on the steering "U" joint you choose you may not need to do any grinding at all.

One suggestion, if you're not going to run strut rods you really need to box the bottom of the crossmember from where the boxing on the bottom stops through where the lower "A" arms bolt to the crossmember all the way up to the bottom of the frame. This is a stress point and when you don't use strut rods this area of the crossmember can crack and fail. This has happened several times and it's not a "Heidts" problem. It occurs no matter who's kit it is whenever the strut rods are eliminated. Ford designed that suspension system to use strut rods and just about all the aftermarket manufacturers have come up with strut rod eliminator kits that look nice but don't address the additional stress that is put on the lower "A" arm attachment point. Boxing the crossmember in that location will take care of that problem.

You also may be sorry you cut the two coils out of those springs. In a car like yours you should be using Mustang 4 cyl springs which, once the engine and trans are in place, will compress to the point where the lower "A" arms are level. Trying to get them level without the weight of the drive-train installed, and cutting coils to do so, will result in the suspension being way too low once everything is in place.

Installation looks really good though.

Last edited by Centerline; 12-08-2007 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 12-08-2007, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centerline
Depending on the steering "U" joint you choose you may not need to do any grinding at all.

One suggestion, if you're not going to run strut rods you really need to box the bottom of the crossmember from where the boxing on the bottom stops through where the lower "A" arms bolt to the crossmember all the way up to the bottom of the frame. This is a stress point and when you don't use strut rods this area of the crossmember can crack and fail. This has happened several times and it's not a "Heidts" problem. It occurs no matter who's kit it is whenever the strut rods are eliminated. Ford designed that suspension system to use strut rods and just about all the aftermarket manufacturers have come up with strut rod eliminator kits that look nice but don't address the additional stress that is put on the lower "A" arm attachment point. Boxing the crossmember in that location will take care of that problem.

Installation looks really good though.
Centerline is right!!But if you do like he said you will not have any problems,The factory Mustang a-arms was not a a-arm,It was a straight arm,That's why they put the strut rods,Then they made a true a-arm.And if done right like Centerline said it's ok.
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Old 12-08-2007, 05:28 PM
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I used a Heidts crossmember on my 50 Ford F1 and did not do anything about the springs till the motor and the front body parts were on and it the lower arm was level. Now 4 years or so later and many miles the A arms are pointed up and I have in the plans for air bag/shock set up to get things right again. Ed ke6bnl
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Old 12-08-2007, 05:35 PM
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mustang springs.....

Hi,correct me if im wrong,but in your installation directions,doesnt it say to put a pipe in the spring pocket, to take the place of the spring,until you have ALL the weight back in the car,engine,trans,front sheetmetal and filled radiator. mine does. spring goes in LAST.......
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Old 12-08-2007, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatbob2
Hi,correct me if im wrong,but in your installation directions,doesnt it say to put a pipe in the spring pocket, to take the place of the spring,until you have ALL the weight back in the car,engine,trans,front sheetmetal and filled radiator. mine does. spring goes in LAST.......
No it does not,
It says to install them when you install the spindles,
The problem with the springs was not the rate or the ride height but the actual length of the spring.

My question is about the clearance of the crossmember to the steering shaft.

Mark

Last edited by marks914; 12-08-2007 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 12-08-2007, 06:59 PM
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You haven't said whether or not you already have a U Joint. If you can't fit the U joint you have, notch the side of the crossmember and put a tube insert in it, like was stated in post 3. If you have no U joint yet, you can use a Sweet Mfg U joint , available from Speedway motors, and it would probably clear.

I've had to do a notch and tube insert on at least one of the MII front ends I've installed. I have also just slotted the rearmost wall with a smile cut, then beat the wall that needs clearance into the smile with hammer on a piece of round bar,(so it looks professional)..no hammer marks that way..
Weld up the smile and away you go.



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Old 12-09-2007, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marks914
No it does not,
It says to install them when you install the spindles,
The problem with the springs was not the rate or the ride height but the actual length of the spring.

My question is about the clearance of the crossmember to the steering shaft.

Mark
Once the weight of the engine, trans, and sheet metal get on those springs your suspension will sit way too low and your geometry will be all off. Coil springs take some time to settle. A new set of springs will settle up to two inches or more. What you have now is almost level lower control arms with NO weight on the springs. Plan on a new set before you try driving it.

Check out this picture...... Notice how the lower control arms are angled down. This is how yours should look with no engine and trans in place.



Once you install the engine and trans the weight compresses the springs and the suspension will sit nearly level like this. In this example there is still a little angle because the springs haven't "settled" yet.



It can take a few months of driving before the springs finally settle to their finished height so you need to take that into consideration. Cutting the springs like you have done BEFORE installation of the drive train was not a good idea.

Like has been said earlier your installation looks very good. The welding is high quality and everything looks really nice. However, take the advice of people who have done these installations many times before. What you do is up to you, but I do believe you'll need to replace those springs once your drive line is installed.

Last edited by Centerline; 12-09-2007 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 12-09-2007, 12:06 PM
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Centerline is right! It does not look like you have enough angle on the bottom a-arm,For not having any weight on it.The bottom a-arm should be level when the weight is on it.If it is high when the weight is on it. it will go down a little each day.
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