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Old 10-20-2004, 12:51 AM
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Hello and a question

I've been lurking around the board for a few days now and decided to take the plunge and tap the vast knowledge here.
I'm a first time restorer of a '67 Mustang Fastback. I'm not making it an Eleanor. I'm going modified with shaved door handles, digital dash and a few other goodies I'm still drawing out. I've been going back an forth about how to paint the car ? either all together or apart in separate sections (i.e. fenders, doors, hood, trunk lid, valances off of the body). I've heard separating the pieces for paint will make for better coverage. My question is, how do you go about getting the fender bolts and such the same color if they're not attached to the car or parts when you spray them?
I won't be tackling the paint for a while, but I'm curious about how to handle this when I come to it.
I still have a lot of rust to repair and mud to spread.


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Old 10-20-2004, 12:10 PM
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Fuul on frame off restore

We paint the inner fender panels..insides of fenders..under the car..the interior..all the parts and pieces that are hard to get to with the car assembled as they come off of the car..we then reassemble the car and then do the final exterior paint with the car assembled..After final paint we then install the seats, door panels, carpet, headliners, dash and such,

this is about how it goes..

I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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Old 10-20-2004, 12:48 PM
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Depends on the vehicle...........some are easier to paint apart, old trucks, rods etc, because there are too many opposing angles and surfaces. Others such as your Mustang, which is much flatter can be painted all at once. Colours match better this way too. Of course, painting the door jams, engine compartment, trunk etc can be done beforehand.
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Old 10-20-2004, 01:45 PM
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i'd do what you've been told. i did some painting and assembly on my truck, and your going to need another set of hands, or it's going to need repainting when your done anyway. been there done that.
shoot the jambs,inner fenders, interior, trunk, motor compartment. everything you can't get in the final outer shooting.

do a dry run with your paint gun and see what your reach limitations are. you can't be ready enough if your a do it at homer. btdt.

do a search in the body section, there is a ton of stuff on this allready. been there done that too.
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Old 10-20-2004, 02:22 PM
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If you paint you pieces seperate from the rest of the car, you have to be extra careful when putting it back together. It is awful easy to bump a edge of a door or fender and chip the paint on the edge. I usually take the pieces off, paint the undersides and the jams then put it back together and paint the car as a whole. It saves me time and the chance of scratching up or chipping freshly painted panels.
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Old 10-21-2004, 07:20 AM
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I'd do what the others suggested, spray the undercarraige, door jams, engine compartment, inner fenders, inner doors, etc first. Then assemble and then hit the viewable body all at once with exception to small parts like your headlight buckets, louvers on the B pillar, etc. you know, the little things that are easy to bolt on afterwards.

For bolts, I would just plate them all. You can plate them silver or body color. The only bolts that are really visible on that car are the ones holding the top of the fenders. If you are spraying the fenders on the car, just hit them while you are doing it.

Before you attempt to spray that car, find a beater car and paint it first. You have to have a friend or family member with a car that needs new paint. I would highly suggest that you experiment with it prior to painting your 'baby' for the first time. I know it is a lot of work, but you need this learning curve. I have done a couple small spray jobs on some motorcycle tanks, etc. But I still am going to spray my daily driver and hopefully one of my friends cars with my particular equipment and setup before I attempt to spray my project car.

I have to say, you picked a nice project car! 67-68 mustang fastback or convertible is my dream car. I have a chance to pick up a 68 gt fastback (red, toploader, 390, 9" rear) from a good friend. Only problem is that it is rotted to the ground and will need a 100% restoration. For now, I'm practicing my techniques by restoring a rare 80s jap sports car that I am hooked on for some unknown reason.

Nice touch on the shaved panels, etc. I think I would go the same route if I got a plain jane mustang (non-gt car, shelby, etc). But I would love to restore that GT car to original.

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Old 10-21-2004, 06:53 PM
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I have seen alot of early Mustangs at the car shows. Many of them have painted the fender bolts, and appear to have painted them by hand. Painting them with the fender on, usually means that the inner fender gets paint on it, where the fender bolts go, due to the slotted holes. From the factory, they were not painted, as the fendes were painted off the car. You might want to consider buying a set of new bolts for it. They are fairly cheap in the sets from one of the Mustang suppliers. You can get them in black and also plated.

As an added point. If you paint the parts off the car, cover the edges when re-assembling with masking tape. They will bump each other, so protect them.
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Old 10-21-2004, 09:53 PM
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I working on a Caddy right now. I'm painting everything that is not visible from the outside of the car in pieces. I'm also painting slightly around all the edges onto the visible parts. When I reassemble it, I'll lightly sand the areas that show and paint the whole thing. My intent is to get nearly perfect edges and even, matching color on the exterior.

In my opinion, painted fender bolts are a sure sign of a repaint since the factory didn't do it that way. Not what you want in a restoration project of any sort. If you set 2 roughly equal Mustangs side by side, one with painted bolts and the other with the original finish bolts, the difference stands out like a sore thumb. When I open the hood of a car for the first time, I always glance at those bolts to help me make a first assesment of the condition of the car.
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