Help!!! - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2007, 10:12 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: comming along
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, Mn
Posts: 652
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Help!!!

I finished the brakelines on my 37 Ford. I tightened up on everything. I bled the master. Now pushing on the pedal I have leaks at both valves, and the porp. valve. I took it off and looked it over, and it looked ok. I put it back together, and it still drips a little. Can I use teflon tape on the threads?? or some sort of pipe dope?? Thanks.. Al

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2007, 10:23 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: East Lyme, Ct.
Posts: 21
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Brake lines seal at the flare not at the threads. Thread sealer should not be used. If tightening doesn't stop the leaks new flares will have to be made.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2007, 10:40 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: comming along
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, Mn
Posts: 652
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I bought brake lines already done, so that I wouldn't run into problems. Would you suggest then that I build my own lines?? Also why is one end of the line have a long threaded end, and the other side is small?? Does it make any difference how I installed it??
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2007, 10:41 AM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
No . Do not use any sealant on those threads. A properly flared tube fitting and new fittings will seal.

The threads on a new tapered fitting for automotive brake system use is of the "dryseal" type.(nptf)
This threadform is made so that the crest of the thread on the male fitting actually cuts into root of the thread of the female fitting, displacing metal, and creating a mechanical seal.

This type of fitting was developed to need no sealant, as the higher pressures involved in hydraulic systems commonly ejected the sealant from the joint when put to use. Ejected sealant can no longer seal. Teflon tape can get stuck in valves and is definatly a no no.

Sometimes reusing those types of fittings will result in leaks.
The cone at the bottom of a female inverted flare type fitting will also be prone to leak if it has been used, overtightened or the double flare is improperly done.

Those are the things you need to check.

The longer length tube nut is provided on those pre flared lines to use in limited access areas, so You can get at the hex easier.

It makes no difference where they are used.
I would trust the factory flares on the tubes you bought, they are usually better than the home done ones.
Hope this helps,
Mikey
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2007, 10:52 AM
Henry Highrise's Avatar
Lost in the 60's
 
Last wiki edit: Removing stuck fasteners Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Dixieland
Age: 69
Posts: 15,189
Wiki Edits: 4

Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
Overtightening is the cause of a lot of brake system leaks. I usually snug good and check for leaks ....if I have one I tighten just a little each time untill the leak stops. Over tightening can ruin the flare as well as the inverted fitting.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2007, 10:53 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: comming along
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, Mn
Posts: 652
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I did have to use reducers on the valves. That is what Speedway Motors suggested that I do. Do you think that maybe the reducers that I put in may have been put in wrong?? I just screwed them in untill tight, then screwed in the brake line.. All of my other conections work just fine. I had to use a few unions with th lines, and have no leake at all there.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2007, 10:59 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: comming along
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, Mn
Posts: 652
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
So then I should take apart those fittings that leak and look for bent female ends??
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2007, 11:10 AM
Henry Highrise's Avatar
Lost in the 60's
 
Last wiki edit: Removing stuck fasteners Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Dixieland
Age: 69
Posts: 15,189
Wiki Edits: 4

Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by APalusky
So then I should take apart those fittings that leak and look for bent female ends??
Did you use inverted flare reducers? That may be your problem...you might have used the wrong type reducers.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2007, 02:11 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: comming along
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, Mn
Posts: 652
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not sure. I ordered from Speedway Motors the front valves for the disc brakes. I was told I needed because I was running two lines two 2psi valves. I also needed these reducers for the valves as well. They sent me 4 reducers with the valves. I just replaced the one brake line that was leaking. I must have installed it at a slight angle. I looked at the end, and it was slightly bent. The only thing right now is where one of the reducers goes into the valve. I pumped the brakes a good 5 times. There was just a damp spot, but that could have been from before, and I can't get all of the fluid off. I tried to dry it off, and I only get it damp once in a while. Not all the time. I will try to give it another tug. If that doesn't work would you suggest that I pull that valve and change the reducer?? There is no drip there, and that is the only spot that is now wet. If the valve looks bad inside would you think I should block off one of the lines, and put a "T" fitting into the other line?? Thanks.. Al
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2007, 03:07 PM
66GMC's Avatar
Get in, sit down, hang on
 

Last journal entry: Cab Removal
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Olds, Alberta Canada
Age: 57
Posts: 2,763
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 32
Thanked 91 Times in 86 Posts
I read thru some of your previous posts, where you had experienced some trouble with "through the frame" adaptors ... which leads me to believe that you probably have a lot of connections.

More connections = more places for leaks to occur ... and brake fluid will often migrate downward on the outside of the tube.

Wipe the whole system down with an absorbent rag, followed by a liberal spraying of brake clean to make sure everything is clean and dry. Have someone else push on and hold the brake pedal, while you (starting at the top) examine for leaks, bubbling sounds, etc.

After you have pinpointed the fitting(s) that are leaking ... the next question is "Why are they leaking?"

As others have implied, you have to make sure that all fittings are correctly mated to each other. It's common to see people trying to use *pipe-thread* fittings where the should be using *tube-thread* fittings (or vice-versa).

Look for rolled/ stripped / cross-threaded threads at all connections.

Check all flared ends on all tubes for cracks ... both on the contact area and behind the flare (under the nut).

HTH,
Don
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2007, 03:27 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: comming along
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, Mn
Posts: 652
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Lots of conections. I did wipe down everything. There is now only one spot that is damp. It is at one of the reducers that goes into one of the valves for the front. It doesn't drip though. It gets damp from time to time. No one here to hold the brakes down for me. I have been pumping them then going to check the different connections. I don't have the body on yet, so it makes it somewhat easier. Would you suggest that I crap the whole system that I have, and get a roll of line and buy the double flaring tool and redo the job?? I already have a tubing bender. Another thing that I am not sure of. In the front I put the brake line over the frame. Should I have put it under the frame?? I want it done right. I can only get certain lengths of line. I can only get 12,20,36,48,and 51" lengths. Thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2007, 05:49 PM
66GMC's Avatar
Get in, sit down, hang on
 

Last journal entry: Cab Removal
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Olds, Alberta Canada
Age: 57
Posts: 2,763
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 32
Thanked 91 Times in 86 Posts
Well, as suggested earlier ... I'd investigate that connection to see WHY it is leaking.

I was trying to point out that the fluid MIGHT be coming from a leaking connection above.

Are you telling me that your entire brake line system is built from shorter peices joined together?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2007, 07:22 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: comming along
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, Mn
Posts: 652
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Well kind of. I used to lines on the rear. That was how it was to start with. I just replaced it is all. I then went to the rubber hose that goes up to the frame. From there it goes about 12" to a 10psi valve. From there it goes another 20" to the prop. valve. Then 36" to the back of the master. The fronts started at the master with a "T". I left both line on it and ran 12" on one side, and 20" from the other to both 2psi valves. From there one side has a 36" line that goes to a 12" line. Then from another union to a 20" that goes over the frame to the mount that is on the other side to the brake hose. The other line from the 2psi valve goes to a 12" line to a union that then goes to a 51" line that goes over thbe frame to the other rubber hose. I just came home from church and found that there is a leak at one of the reducers that goes to one of the 2psi valves. I know that the reducer is at the bottom. I don't think I can turn it in any farther. I could just remove it from the "T" and "T" it off further down the line to the other side. I think I can buy another reducer in town, but I don't want to fork out another $32. for another valve.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.