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Originally Posted by usaweapon777
Hey guys, I have a friend who needs some help with his car and would like some secondary opinions. He called me over telling me that the battery was dead and that it needed an alternator. He had replaced the battery recently so we knew it wasn't the battery. While the car was running I read 12 volts off of the battery. I thought that if the car is running I should see slightly more than 12 volts. Do you need to read it straight off of the alternator? I pulled the alternator and took it to advance, They tested it and said the alternator was fine. So we put it back in the car and jumped it and it seemed to run fine on its own.
Since the alternator tested good and seems to be working I started looking elsewhere for something that could be draining the battery. However, I think other issues are causing his problem. He failed to tell me that it takes him on average at least 20-30 seconds of cranking for the car to start. So I'm figuring that he's loosing his prime to the carb from probably cracked fuel lines or something else?
Also when we went to shut off the car after jumping it, it wouldn't shut off. The car went from a smooth idle to coughing and sputtering after turning back the key but it wouldn't die until i choked it out. What would allow power to the ignition even with the key off?
Thanks for any advice.
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With the engine running propped up to 1000-1200 RPMs to be sure it's spinning fast enough to produce a charge. The line voltage must be above 12 in order to charge the battery. Typical would be 13 to 15 volts, less than 13 the battery won't stay charged and more than 15 sustained for a long time will overheat the battery resulting in boiling off the electrolyte to warping plates, an excursion to 16/17 is OK as long as it tapers off within a minute or two.
The ignition getting power with the key off is most likely the key switch is worn and not breaking contact with the run position when switched to off, assuming somebody hasn't messed with the wiring. But your description sounds like the engine is simply running on a common ailment of carbureted emission engines, there being something in one or more cylinders that's glowing hot and keeps firing any fresh mixture that comes its way. You'll have to figure this out as to which of these two symptoms is the one that keeps the engine going.
A short large enough to siphon off 3 or 4 volts when it's running would be a large leak. Typical of this is a battery going bad where the alternator can work till goes up in flame and never recharge the battery. Being new is not a guaranty that it's any good. The best test for a battery is a high load test, this times how long under a large discharge the battery can hold its nominal voltage. then how long does it take and how far does it fall.
Leakage can be tested with everything off by disconnecting the ground lead of the battery then placing a voltmeter between the ground terminal which is now the positive lead to the meter and the other lead to the ground cable. A voltage tells you something is on, modern cars will show some volts here because there are housekeeping functions in the computers that don't fully shut down.
Another test is back EMF leakage through the alternator's diodes, put the meter between the positive terminal of the battery with the cable disconnected and the large red lead from the alternator. Positive lead to terminal, negative lead to #10 wire from alternator. A voltage here tells you the alternator is leaking backward through the diodes to ground.
Bogie