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Old 06-10-2008, 12:52 AM
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help, 350 rebuild

i have a 72 Monte i am trying to rebuild. i was told it was bored out to a 383, never given spec. thinking about putting a stroker kit on , but not sure on what kind of stroker kit. something not to expensive. or buying one part at a time. it will be a Sunday car but want about 500-600hp and about the same trq. i have never rebuilt a engine, the car has been handed down to me, i would like to fix it up. so any help would be great.

thanks

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Old 06-10-2008, 01:01 AM
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Bored out to 383? Max overbore .060" would be 360cu.in. To get a 383ci you need a 400ci - 3.75" stroke crank & .030" overbore with 350 block.
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Old 06-10-2008, 07:49 AM
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Unless you have 7,000 to 10,000 bucks to spend then you are not going to be seeing "500 to 600 Hp and about the same TQ"

If it is a 350 and someone told you it was a 383 then it is already "stroked". There are kits for stroking it more than that like to a 397 and all the way out to 408 but they probably won't work with that particular block. And if you are going to be pushing 600 Horse then you are going to want an aftermarket block anyways.

There is no way you will be able to put all that power to the ground on street tires anyways so why don't you tell us what your budget is and how much of it you want to do yourself and we will give you some real numbers and what to expect from specific engine combinations.
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Old 06-13-2008, 07:20 PM
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I am looking to spend about 2500 dlrs on the engine. i am not sure what was done to the engine. i was told it was bored out but they could not remember how much. but it was a 350. if you could help me with what i should do that would be great.
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Old 06-13-2008, 08:25 PM
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Take it to a reputable machine shop and pay them to look at it and tell you what you have.
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Old 06-13-2008, 08:40 PM
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For 2500 a solid rebuilt balanced 355 and a decent set of heads will make ya a nice 400hp motor and with some steep gears you can have a pretty nasty street car.
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Old 06-13-2008, 08:53 PM
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I recently rebuilt the 350 in my GMC truck and I have 2500 invested just getting it back to stock. I had it bored over .30, balanced, etc, etc. anyways, long story short I have started working part time at Thompson Performance Racing. They are stroker specialist and might offer some suggestions, however, you will certainly need to increase your budget IMHO. From what I have seen, you should make sure you get some competent advice before you start spending money. Put big money heads on a stock crank and they will both be destroyed in short order. 500-600 hp is way out of stock component range. Good luck.
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Old 06-18-2008, 07:40 PM
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OK my 350 was overbore to .60. what should i do now to it. i want to get as much power out of my engine. should i get aluminum heads, new pistons and rings, crank, rods, ect. and what compression. suggestions would help. thanks for all the ones i have already received
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Old 06-18-2008, 08:04 PM
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.060 overbore is max.Are the cylinders worn to the point of having a ring ridge? If so the block is no good.If not hone it and mic it to see if it is within tolerance for piston to cylinder wall clearance.In other words make sure you have a good block before sinking money into it.
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Old 06-19-2008, 07:48 AM
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If you want power you will still need to take you stuff to a machine shop. I have seen so called balanced assemblies and none of them have been close. If you don't mind blowing your budget you will need a new crank to handle the power produced with some new heads. Certainly any rebuild should include new rings, pistons, timing set, oil pump, gasket set, rod bearings, main bearings, cam, cam bearings, lifters, most likely will need valve springs, probably reuse the push rods if you stay stock other wise you will need something heaftier for higher pressure/rpms as well as rocker arms.
Things to check before you start purchasing; Check your crank to see if oversized bearings are in order, both mains and rods. Press the pistons off the rods and check both ends of the rods, most likely you will need to hone/resize the rod ends and possible hone the wrist pin end depending on whether you get pressed on or locks to retain you piston. Check your block and verify your cylinder dimensions. Verify that you have an internal or externally balanced engine.
If all is well and the block is in good shape ... remove the springs from your heads and try to determine if you have good valve guides. Valves should not wiggle much at all while in the guides. You will need your valves glass beaded and dressed, as well as your valve seats dressed along with a thorough cleaning of the heads. You will need new valve seals and the press on seals will probably require machining the tops of the guides to get the seals on as well as the possiblility that the lift on your cam will push your valve down so far as to hit the top of the guide. Verify your lift before reassembly. Be good to get the heads machined flat as well. Make sure your rods clear. You will need to change from pressed in rocker studs to screw in if you go hotter than stock. Put guides in as well if you do. Know what size push rods to match to your guides.
If all is well so far and you would like to stay close to your budget then you can start specifiying your componets. This won't be such a hot rod but a solid running engine. Your cam will be the only component that will change your power if all is stock. I can't help you with the cam as I understand very little at this point, but I believe you can get one that will get the maximum out of your stock heads and what ever carburator you decide to run, gear ratio etc. Make sure your spring pressures are acceptable.
You then need to take your dampener, crank, finished rods, pistons, rings, bearings, flexplate/flywheel to a maching shop that can balance them for you. Have them polish you crank and chamfer your oil holes as well. If you are buying pistons that need the wrist pins pressed onto the rods, have them do this as well as it is not for the faint of heart. If using pistons with lock rings you can do when ready to assemble. Just make sure your rods are correct size for either application you choose.
Get everything back, put your block in an engine stand and you can start assembly. Take your time. Check ALL clearances; Mains, rods, ring gaps, etc.
If you go with hotter new components not alot changes except your rods will not need to be honed and your heads will be flat. You can get high quality cast iron heads the run like the wind and the only difference from aluminum will be the weight, so don't spend the bucks on aluminum unless you are going to race. The cast iron will stand up better if something goes awry internally as well. If you get hopped up heads, get a new crank and rods that can handle the power.
I know this is rambling but believe me there are a hundred more paragraphs that could go on and on so read all you can. Find someone who knows what they are doing. You will spend some big bucks on micrometers and such if you don't take it somewhere that can check your stuff for you.
One last thing... just because your block is bored over doesn't mean you have a stroker motor. That requires some machining to the block for crank clearance as well as a new crank, rods, pistons to adjust the stroke length and provide the extra displacement.
I wish you all the luck.
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Old 06-19-2008, 08:56 AM
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Well you can get over 450 plus horses with the right heads cam intake and carb. I have a 350 with about 450 hp but you will have to spend more then 2500 for a good build. The only thing gm on my engine is the block everything else is aftermarket. Go with a scat or eagle cast steel rotating assembly that is good for 500hp (or so they say) then go with a good set of heads. AFR makes one of the best flowing set of heads. I have forged pistons. 4340 forged rods and a scat cast steel crank dart iron eagle heads fully ported edelbrock rpm air gap performer intake and a quickfuel 650 q series carb. My s10 runs good with my setup. Good luck on your build I am sure it will be awesome when your done.
Eric
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Old 06-19-2008, 10:40 AM
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As long as the crank is in good condition or you have it refinished back to stock you can use that with good results. We have race motors using GM cranks that turn 7500-8000 rpm day in and day out. These motors also use GM "pink" rods and forged lightweight pistons.

You can use GM parts and save some money over new parts and as long as you are not making over 450 HP. (which you won't be with 2500 bucks) you should be just fine.

I would recommend you take your money and buy a crate motor from someone on ebay or something.
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Old 06-19-2008, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double_v23
As long as the crank is in good condition or you have it refinished back to stock you can use that with good results. We have race motors using GM cranks that turn 7500-8000 rpm day in and day out. These motors also use GM "pink" rods and forged lightweight pistons.

You can use GM parts and save some money over new parts and as long as you are not making over 450 HP. (which you won't be with 2500 bucks) you should be just fine.

I would recommend you take your money and buy a crate motor from someone on ebay or something.
I second the crate motor idea. A 325 hp 350 crate motor for $2K and some money left over for a carb and accessories.
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Old 06-19-2008, 06:22 PM
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I third it unless you just want to build it yourself you will come out ahead with a crate engine.
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Old 06-19-2008, 06:29 PM
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I agree with you guys about getting a crate motor for nothing real fancy if you don't have much to work with . I had a used motor once and just said the heck with it I got a shortblock put the rest of money in parts for the top and it came out around just under 3 grand with all accessories and had close to 400hp when I had that motor. That would be good for a daily driver and not eat you tons at the fuel pump. They are pretty good and durable with LT 1 connecting rods and hyper pistons and a nodular cast iron crank and octane friendly compression.
Eric
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