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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2012, 09:45 PM
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You have plenty of oil pressure. Relax......The 20w50 won't hurt it, but I would switch to 5w30 or 10w30 depending on temps in your state. I only run the heavier oil in strictly racing applications. Ultimately, the choice is yours. As far as the oil distrubutor (Valvoline, Mobile 1, etc.), that's a personal preference. I'm a Castrol guy.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2012, 01:10 AM
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ok...i get what you are saying about the fan. My question is is it acceptable for me to wire the fan straight like i have or should i continue to use the switch as I am not going to drag the car. Also, I'm assuming by the responses that my oil pressure is bad or something. Could someone please elaborate for me? I dunno if i should run the 20w-50 now or what?
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:13 AM
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sorry jjack...i didnt see ur post until just now. I'm in colder weather right now but temps can be as high as in the 90's+ in the summer time which is right around the corner pretty much. Should i stay with my oil for now and then switch next oil change to say 10w-30 like you proposed? or go ahead and switch now?
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrome407
ok...i get what you are saying about the fan. My question is is it acceptable for me to wire the fan straight like i have or should i continue to use the switch as I am not going to drag the car. Also, I'm assuming by the responses that my oil pressure is bad or something. Could someone please elaborate for me? I dunno if i should run the 20w-50 now or what?

your is a street car.. and not knowing what you have I'd get one of these..
http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU

never run a fan off a stich alone, it needs to go through a relay.. most switches are not made for that type load..
you didn't say if your elc fan set up was single fan or dual..
they make both..
they also make one if you have a/c that turns the fan on anytime the a/c is on..
if your good with wiring you can just get the thermal switch and relay and go to town. but it sounds like you'll be bettr off.. buying a prewired set up and installing it..
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2012, 09:06 AM
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i would use 10-40w.

20-50w flows like cold honey in the winter. Let a can of 20-50w sit out over night then pour some out to see what I mean.

your pressure is more than high enough. I would give up some pressure for better flowing lower weight oil.

if you are using a flat tappet cam and strong valve springs then you should also run an oil additive like zddplus.
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:33 PM
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yea i believe you on the 20w-50 cause when i started it for the first time after being in the car over night in cold weather the car sounded like garbage. It took it a long time to get lined out. I like that relay system u guys have linked to me. The way my system is now is its a dual fan/radiator system by B-Kool. It has a dial switch that lets me adjust when I want it to come on and i currently have it on 185. From the looks of it it is tapped into my radiator with a h20 temp looking brass line. When the toggle switch was on it came on by itself and off by itself. So right now I have it wired straight and the fans are working as they should just without the issue of the toggle switch. I'm starting to wonder if i should put a normal fan blade and fan shroud on and do away with the electric fans.

Can someone explain to me why I was losing oil pressure with the old oil all of a sudden. It seemed like after it overheated the oil was shot. Did the oil finally just get to the point where it couldn't keep pressure anymore?
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:28 PM
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225 or 230F is not that hot. I think you are over thinking it.
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:33 PM
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Ok, i just started the car and let it run and it is running fine. Actually, the oil pressure is better today than it was the first time i started it with new oil change. I'm holding above 60 now even when I'm at temp.. I checked coolant and oil and all is fine. The only issue I have is my pcv is weak so I'm going to pick up a new one next time I'm out.

I hate to take this post into another dimension but I have another question for you pros. I currently have a single plane/850 combo. I am thinking more along the lines of a dual plane/750. If i let my car idle a lot it tends to load up and fuel smoke. If I should change give me some good intake/carb combos.

I really appreciate everyone's patience. I know I may have over reacted but you gotta remember this is my first and I'm still learning. I rely on you guys to help because I know most of you have been there and done that. Thanks to everyone.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2012, 04:33 PM
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edel airgap rpm anda 650 carb..
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Old 02-05-2012, 09:35 PM
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Original owner may have wired the fan separate for starting. I have an electric fan as well as an electric water pump, plus 2 electric fuel pumps. Tie this in to decent compression and I have a lot of current draw.

I have my fan and water pump on switches that lead to relays. Once on it is thermostat controlled. As soon as the engine fires, I flick the other two switches on. Took about 3 weeks to make it a habit.
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Old 02-06-2012, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landshark928
Original owner may have wired the fan separate for starting. I have an electric fan as well as an electric water pump, plus 2 electric fuel pumps. Tie this in to decent compression and I have a lot of current draw.

I have my fan and water pump on switches that lead to relays. Once on it is thermostat controlled. As soon as the engine fires, I flick the other two switches on. Took about 3 weeks to make it a habit.
x2
painless has that also.. easy to add if your good with wiring,
as the whole set up is very basic..
but if not, just buy the fan control you want/need and follow the directions..

but in your post if the fan is thermostat controlled, it shouldn't be on, when engines cold.. only on restarts.. this can be also done with the ing switch. as it cuts off power to anything wired to the assessory and would stop the fan and water pump on restarts without the need of a manual switch..
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2012, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrome407
ok, so i changed my oil to 20w-50 Pennzoil with a k&n oil filter. I checked the coolant and everything is still topped off. Also, the oil i removed is dark and dirty but is normal with no discoloration. It smells normal aswell. I now have close to 65 psi oil pressure on idle and it is holding steady. However, the motor doesn't seem to be like it used to be. It seems to have a small vibration now whereas it didn't before. It is cold here right now and I didn't let the motor warm/run but maybe a minute and I am wondering if the motor will line out when the oil gets hot or if I have something seriously wrong. I dunno weather or not I should run the engine to see if it will line out or if i should just stop now before doing any further damage. There is absolutely no smoke what so ever from the pcv or exhaust, great oil pressure like before and not losing any coolant. I also wonder if the new oil is hiding my oil pressure issues whereas the old worn oil was showing them. That may not even be a true statement but it seems logical to me to even ask such a question. I appreciate all answers as I am truly worried.
This is good, I had asked for a heavier oil to see the response which is at is should be, more pressure everywhere. This is a good sign that the oil you had didn't survive the overheat but nothing physical about the engine was damaged.

Guys are all over the map when it comes to modern oils, I grew up on 50 weight Harley's and 30 or 40 weight car oil in the California desert so when people talk about 0-30 it sounds like water to me as I struggle to get into the 21 st century.

So now my Harley uses 20-50 and the GMC uses 15-40. I still have 5 gallons of 50 weight Chevron Delo 400 in the shop that has no apparent use in modern engines. I'll try to convince my wife I need to buy a Pan Head chopper so I can use it up.

Anyway 20-50 is considered good stuff on the SAE and API charts from -4 F to 90 F which should be safe in your area this time of year. If you want, you can change it out for 15-40 or 10-30. Which you should probably do just to see how the pressures react as a doubling of this test. If not just run the 20-50 to the next change should be fine. I run the 15-40 or 20-50 in the truck year around and have to cross the mountains several times a month. Here in winter on the ocean side of the mountains it's mostly cool upper 30s mid 40s, over the passes it's snowy with temps in the 20s to lower 30's. On the desert side the temps run -20's to freezing. During the summer the ocean side runs in the 60's with occasional trips to the 90's, passes run in the 60s -70s and the desert in the 90s to 115 F. The 15-40 or 20-50 takes all this in stride with no problems year around.

Bogie
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2012, 10:04 AM
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If you are asking for advice on the carb and intake setup, I would start another post. You'll get more views and it keeps this post on topic.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2012, 10:12 AM
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put 20/50 in freezer and seehow it moves/pores, grandmas molasses moves faster.. cold starts are what kills engine.. and why it's not used anymore.

I use 20/50 in my truck in the summer, but winter it gets 5-30
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