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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2010, 06:04 PM
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When I'm working on trucks like that, it's pretty common to let all the air out of the tires on whichever end of the truck I'm working on, like say, doing a water pump or something.
A set of smaller street tires makes a LOT of stuff easier though,

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2010, 06:35 PM
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OT- I had a buddys' son's GMC over to my shop in FL to do an intake and carb swap. Thought I'd just let the air out and lower it down, no problem.

I don't know what kind of tires this thing had, but the sidewalls would support the weight of the front of the truck- w/NO air in the tires!

I ended up driving the front tires into the drainage ditch that runs along side my property and laid down plywood to use as a bridge to work on it. What a bunch of hassle for something that should have been simple.

I later drove this guy in his truck to try to hawk some of his property to pay debts- he had lost his DL to a DWI, and I thought driving a tall truck w/a BBC in it would be a hoot. WRONG!

That truck was the worst, most ill handling truck that was ever my misfortune to drive. It had all the "right" parts, supposedly- but obviously not installed or adjusted correctly.

The tires against the road was three times louder than the engine, you couldn't carry on a conversation in it while going down the road. Radio totally useless. It swerved, jounced, vibrated, shimmied over about 45 mph, and was just a total pos to drive.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2010, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
OT- I had a buddys' son's GMC over to my shop in FL to do an intake and carb swap. Thought I'd just let the air out and lower it down, no problem.

I don't know what kind of tires this thing had, but the sidewalls would support the weight of the front of the truck- w/NO air in the tires!

I ended up driving the front tires into the drainage ditch that runs along side my property and laid down plywood to use as a bridge to work on it. What a bunch of hassle for something that should have been simple.

I later drove this guy in his truck to try to hawk some of his property to pay debts- he had lost his DL to a DWI, and I thought driving a tall truck w/a BBC in it would be a hoot. WRONG!

That truck was the worst, most ill handling truck that was ever my misfortune to drive. It had all the "right" parts, supposedly- but obviously not installed or adjusted correctly.

The tires against the road was three times louder than the engine, you couldn't carry on a conversation in it while going down the road. Radio totally useless. It swerved, jounced, vibrated, shimmied over about 45 mph, and was just a total pos to drive.
When I was still working , I passed several "tall" trucks on the road , none going very fast .
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2010, 10:52 PM
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Wow, alot of stuff I didn't wanna hear.

This isnt going to be a street truck just be legal, I'm only wanting to use it to get somewhere if my road floods or maybe take it to a mud bog (never done, would like to try) If my road is flooded i only need to get 6 miles to work.


Here are my thoughts.

Take pics tomorrow to see what exact transfer case i have and if its say a dodge if i can just get a dodge motor and tranny and use those?

2nd is I cant just put a shaft from say a th350 to the tcase?

The previous owner did say it had an "8 lug rear and 6 lug front"

But I have no idea what that means. I have a bagged 2000 ext cab silverado I drive daily so lifted trucks, i'm clueless.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 08-05-2010, 12:18 AM
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CZ,

6 lug vs 8 lug........Six lug is from a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck. An eight lug comes from a 1 or 1 1/2 ton truck. So two different rides is the point. So no rotating the tires on this bad boy. You now need to find out if the front gear ratio is the same as the rear, if they are different you have another BIG expense.

You live in Florida when does it flood there? Oh yeah hurricanes sorry!

Check the frame where the steering box is to see if it is broken.

I think this is a very big, expensive, time consumming road. I am retired and MAYBE I would take this on but if you are working 40 hours a week and then try to do this it will take you well let's just say I might not be around anymore to see it on the street,rock run, or mud bogging.

Have Fun
Scholman(retired)
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 08-05-2010, 06:32 AM
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6 lug vs 8 lug........Six lug is from a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck. An eight lug comes from a 1 or 1 1/2 ton truck. So two different rides is the point. So no rotating the tires on this bad boy. You now need to find out if the front gear ratio is the same as the rear, if they are different you have another BIG expense.
To expound on that : you MUST have the same exact ratio in both differentials and also run the exact same height tires on both axles or else you will rip out u-joints and/or axles . Yes you could run a chevy engine and trans since you will have to have a custom driveline made anyway if you want to just stick with the divorced transfer case . It would be better than trying to set it up to run 2wd temporarily . BTW quick way to check if the ratios are the same : Make sure all tires are aired up , then make a mark on the driveline yokes on both differentials with a reference mark on the diffs , then roll the truck , (not jacked up) exactly one full turn of the tires while someone watches the marks and counts the revolutions of the driveline yokes . Both marks must match and you will have a good estimate of axle ratio . The marks will not end up at the reference marks but may be for example 4 full turns plus a half turn which would probably be 4.56 ratio , or 4 full turns plus 7/8 of a turn would be 4.88 ratio . You get the idea. Let us know what you find and decide . I'm curious how this plays out .
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 08-05-2010, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
6 lug vs 8 lug........Six lug is from a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck. An eight lug comes from a 1 or 1 1/2 ton truck. So two different rides is the point. So no rotating the tires on this bad boy. You now need to find out if the front gear ratio is the same as the rear, if they are different you have another BIG expense.
To expound on that : you MUST have the same exact ratio in both differentials and also run the exact same height tires on both axles or else you will rip out u-joints and/or axles . Yes you could run a chevy engine and trans since you will have to have a custom driveline made anyway if you want to just stick with the divorced transfer case . It would be better than trying to set it up to run 2wd temporarily . BTW quick way to check if the ratios are the same : Make sure all tires are aired up , then make a mark on the driveline yokes on both differentials with a reference mark on the diffs , then roll the truck , (not jacked up) exactly one full turn of the tires while someone watches the marks and counts the revolutions of the driveline yokes . Both marks must match and you will have a good estimate of axle ratio . The marks will not end up at the reference marks but may be for example 4 full turns plus a half turn which would probably be 4.56 ratio , or 4 full turns plus 7/8 of a turn would be 4.88 ratio . You get the idea. Let us know what you find and decide . I'm curious how this plays out .
Just wondering . Have you looked inside the cab to make sure it is not gutted ?
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 08-05-2010, 06:43 AM
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Where at in Florida? I might know some guys that can help scare up the stuff you'll need...
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 08-05-2010, 12:49 PM
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panama city, I'm running late today, I'll try to grab the pics on my way to work in a min then post them tonight when i get back off.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 08-05-2010, 07:46 PM
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Why not just keep the 4-speed and get a bellhousing and clutch set-up for the small block you intend to put in?? The money you would spend on an automatic trans and converter will buy the clutch parts you need. Seems like the simplest route

The stick trans is practically bulletproof and already hooked to the T-case.

I have to say the truck looks like a real pile of half azzed thrown together junk if you ask me....3/4-1 ton rear...1/2 ton front...lift blocks everywhere....poorly mounted shocks...not enough shock for tires that big...tons of little parts missing... A guy really into lifted 4x4's with fab skills could make something of it but it isn't for a rookie without help from a 4x4 club, or someone familiar with turning wrenches.

I'd definately want the T-case looked at by someone familiar with them, I see the PTO cover is missing from it...someone took it off for some reason - maybe to look at damage inside of it??
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 08-05-2010, 11:27 PM
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here are the pics.

Front Diff


Rear Diff


Rear Driveshaft


Rear of front diff


Rear of tcase


Side of tcase


Tcase


Tcase2


Tcase 3


Tranny


Tranny 2




I dunno if these pics help anything, but I tried taking pics of what I thought would help you guys help me figure it out lol.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2010, 08:58 AM
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Looking at all the pics, and the video again, that looks like a pretty good start for a mud truck or rock crawler, I'd put the motor in with a fresh clutch and stick a front driveshaft in it and go. You might want to get some real lift springs and/or shackles in the rear and ditch the blocks on both ends, you REALLY don't want blocks up front. That thing definitely has some potential though.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2010, 09:21 AM
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Mayday!!!!!

Man, I don't want to burst your bubble, but these guys giving you optimistic advice are correct technically -- that thing you've purchased could be the makings of a great specialty vehicle. BUT!!!!!!!!!!!! Your obvious lack of expertise says that you are in way over your head. If you can find a couple of rock-climbing or mud dragging or whatever kind of specialty truck folks that will help you with EVERY step of the build, then you could get this thing put together. Be prepared, though, for some big bucks being spent along the way. You didn't buy a pickup that needs a motor. You bought a monster.
Bail out now!!!! Go!! Go!!! GO!!!!!!!!!!
Good luck.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2010, 10:20 AM
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I'm an R&R man. Just don't grasp the concept of how things work on unfamiliar things.

I guess the plan now is to try to sell it or find out what motor I can mate to the tranny thats in it, get a front shaft, mess with it for a month or so untill i get it sold.

Can any of you guys spot any parts worth pointing out when I goto sell it? like someone mention it might have a dana on it?
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2010, 10:45 AM
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Looks like a Dana 44 front axle, Dana 60 rear, probably a 205 transfer case, not sure about the trans but it's obviously a HD 4 speed. Any small bock should fit in there, you'll need a bell housing, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate to match the trans. From the pic of the firewall up through the wheel well, it looks like it might have had a hydraulic clutch master....but that truck would have had mechanical linkage from the factory.
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