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Moving to the electrical forum.
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Doc here,
First off, If you have a hole in the tank (that isn't supposed to be there) You need to remove the tank and address that Issue first, as a matter of safety, and while it's out it will be easier to troubleshoot the Gauge sender system. Next, need to know what Vehicle were talking about here, Year/Model/Stock CID.. Also, need to know when you say "It's not working" Is it stuck on full, empty or somewhere in between? Generically Speaking, If you have Power to the Instruments (INSTR FUSE) To troubleshoot the Fuel gauge system, Remove the sender wire at the fuel tank, Turn the key on and observe the gauge..It should slam home either Full or Empty (depending on how the system is wired). If that works, GROUND the sender wire, It should give a Full opposite deflection (not just a partial movement) If that is good..Your Wire and Gauge are NOT at fault and working fine.. If it Does NOT effect a change on the gauge, Follow and inspect the wire going forward For Breaks, shorts, and the like. When it gets to the gauge, (If not a laminate card) Disconnect it, and ground the gauge there ( May even be marked "S" on the rear of the gauge) If it does not move, The gauge is the suspect, or an Instrument regulator (Should you be equipped with one) If IT does Work, Hook up a jumper to HARD ground from the tank, and observe the gauge, If it still is dead, With a DVOM, set for R X 1 or auto range on the ohms scale, measure the Sender itself to ground, It should read SOMEWHERE between 0 ohms and 290 Ohms..If you have some fuel, and read a constant "O" or an infinite (open, no reading) The Sender is bad..Drain the tank safely, drop it if required , and remove & Replace the sender.. Usually these will spring a leak in the float and sink, or The rheostat will wear out and not report a reference to ground. TANK GROUNDING is #1 on the list of offenders..Be sure you have a good ground to the tank and sender lug. Give us more info, we can help more, maybe even with a schematic.. Doc
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