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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-06-2013, 09:58 AM
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Wrench Turner
 
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I think if it were me,I'd be asking the rebuilder about swapping the pistons out for the correct ones.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-06-2013, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
No limits on the cam. I'd send them to headbytes to get them redone, best value for the money.

Headbytes.com

You can try local too but I don't know what the prices will be.
I've sent a request for info to heasbytes. Also, checking local shops.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-06-2013, 06:27 PM
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Lloyd Elliot does too. Very well known lt1 guy. Not cheap though.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-06-2013, 06:45 PM
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Looks like the guy @ Headbytes likes 305 heads too.LOL.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 05:50 AM
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The guy that AP mentioned @ Headbytes seems like he has some good stuff goin on.I would give him a call if you wanna rework your stockers.He's not very far from me,so,I'm definitely gonna give him a call.Decent prices if he does what he says.Shipping will prolly be the deal breaker tho.IDK if you'll save anything by the time you ship a set of heads both ways.
Got a friend that lives in Cookville, Tn. so one way shipping if I visit him and drop off or pick up.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Lingenfelter offers Full CNC porting and preparation/rebuilding to your stock usable LT-1 cylinder heads.
They do the intake manifold too. They offer cams and injectors and can tell you exactly what the result will be because all their LT1 LT4 combos are dyno and track tested. If you build it to specification.
The details matter. You have to send them a set of usable LT-1 cylinder heads and a usable intake manifold if you want that ported too.

Call them for details
Yea, got a buddy that took his 57 chevy to Ligenfelter, back before he passed. Got over 700 HP at rear wheels, out of his bbc 502. I went with him to see the car on dyno. Really nice guys there also. Bill was over 12,000!
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 09:25 AM
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I talked to a fella that had some repairs done on a set of matching #'s humps on a restore.He said the guy @ Headbytes did a great job considering 3 other shops had told him the heads were not salvagable.Good pricing as well.He did warn tho that the guy will talk your ears off if you hang around long enuff.LOL.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 12:50 PM
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I talked to a fella that had some repairs done on a set of matching #'s humps on a restore.He said the guy @ Headbytes did a great job considering 3 other shops had told him the heads were not salvagable.Good pricing as well.He did warn tho that the guy will talk your ears off if you hang around long enuff.LOL.
How far is this guy from you Joker?
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 04:13 PM
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Probably 150 miles or so. I'm bout 4o miles east of Memphis. 160 west of Nashville.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2013, 10:12 AM
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Engine deck

So>>>>I got my short block back from the machine shop. When I took the plastic off I found the engine deck looked you see in the photos.

1) Will a head gasket seal?
2) If the deck needs to be cleaned up will I have a problem bolting up my heads and intake?

Not sure what to do at this point.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2013, 06:12 PM
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That looks kinda ruff,especially around the large water ports.I definitely don't think I'd try a shim gasket.A good composite gasket will prolly seal up OK,but,IIRC,your pistons are already .045" in the hole,so,thicker ain't gonna be better.I can't believe they didn't @ least give the deck a couple of good cleanup passes.It would have me wonderin what else they did,or,worse,didn't do.Does the surface feel as ruff as it looks in the pics?
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2013, 06:40 PM
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Not sure what to do at this point.
I know what I'd do. Disassemble the whole mess, take the block in to get the mains align-honed or align-bored if they didn't check out on the money, then chuck up on the main saddle and cut the block decks for zero deck based on your stack dimension. Then I'd use a composition gasket of 0.039"/0.040" to set the squish.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2013, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
I know what I'd do. Disassemble the whole mess, take the block in to get the mains align-honed or align-bored if they didn't check out on the money, then chuck up on the main saddle and cut the block decks for zero deck based on your stack dimension. Then I'd use a composition gasket of 0.039"/0.040" to set the squish.
Pistons,IIRC, were the rebuilders type w/ 1.54 pin hgt.,so,even w/ 0 deck I'd opt for a minmum .028 gasket.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2013, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jokerZ71 View Post
Pistons,IIRC, were the rebuilders type w/ 1.54 pin hgt.,so,even w/ 0 deck I'd opt for a minmum .028 gasket.
I think you need to re-examine what you said here. If you cut the block decks to zero, it doesn't matter what the compression height of the piston is, the piston deck height is still zero and you'd need a ~0.039"/0.040" gasket to set the squish. Now, if you wanted to cut the block decks to 0.010" or 0.020" piston deck height and use the 0.028" gasket, ok.

Last edited by techinspector1; 09-27-2013 at 02:14 PM.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2013, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
I think you need to re-examine what you said here. If you cut the block decks to zero, it doesn't matter what the compression height of the piston is, the piston deck height is still zero and you'd need a ~0.039"/0.040" gasket to set the squish. Now, if you wanted to cut the block decks to 0.010" or 0.020" piston deck height and use the 0.028" gasket, ok.
I was thinking all wrong.When I hear 0 deck,I just assume cutting approx .025 for a 9" deck hgt which in his case would still leave him .020 in the hole.I don't have a lot of experience with decking.So,you are saying for him to cut .045 from,or,there about?How much can you safely remove?
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