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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2006, 06:19 PM
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The t-350 valve body is cast iron. Warping the v-body is difficult. The threads would pull from the aluminum case first .

An inch pound torque wrench would be handy. Or the "gentle touch" as someone posted. I have not used a torque wrench on a t-350 in years

I would run a large flat file across the v-body to check for high spots.

Lets keep a level head when responding to information posted on this board.

thanks,

Tony

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2006, 08:28 PM
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Good God ya'll....it's only a T350. Listen to Crosley...
We work on trans all day for our money. We offer our knowledge...for you.
Remember, USE COMMON SENSE!!! Consider the local trasn pro in your community as a resource, just as he would consider your profession for his needs!!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2006, 12:45 AM
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Guys,
Don't knock a guy because he's 19 years old....

His post may have come off as a bit "know it all" but he very well may have installed 100 shift kits. I had probably done 50 by that age....and rebuilt a handful of Th350 and 400's.

I was certified as an ASE Master Auto Tech by the age of 20 and at that time had been in the military as an infantryman for over 2 years.. So I had quite a bit of experience before I was even 18.

As Crosley stated, a torque wrench isn't a MUST on a Th350 with a cast iron VB.

The TransGo kit is better quality and it does differ.

My recommendation on the B&M is to leave the 2nd checkball in place and maybe go a bit less aggressive on the 1-2 feed hole. Other than that it can be made to work.

On a Th400, the TransGo Reprogramming kit is the only kit that dual feeds the direct clutches without internal mods....

Well worth the additional cost.
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Old 03-25-2006, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeshoe
Guys,
Don't knock a guy because he's 19 years old....

His post may have come off as a bit "know it all" but he very well may have installed 100 shift kits. I had probably done 50 by that age....and rebuilt a handful of Th350 and 400's.

I was certified as an ASE Master Auto Tech by the age of 20 and at that time had been in the military as an infantryman for over 2 years.. So I had quite a bit of experience before I was even 18.

As Crosley stated, a torque wrench isn't a MUST on a Th350 with a cast iron VB.

The TransGo kit is better quality and it does differ.

My recommendation on the B&M is to leave the 2nd checkball in place and maybe go a bit less aggressive on the 1-2 feed hole. Other than that it can be made to work.

On a Th400, the TransGo Reprogramming kit is the only kit that dual feeds the direct clutches without internal mods....

Well worth the additional cost.
Dear Jakeshoe

Unfortuneately I already bought the B&M kit and have decided to intall it anyway even though 2 people have told me the transgo kit is better. I will be replacing or having the transmission rebuilt this next winter anyway so this is really a short term upgrade. I got the kit cheap in new condition for $25. Anyway, you have to expand on your comments regarding the 2nd check ball and the 1-2 feed hole. I don't have the instructions in front of me at the moment so I am not sure what you are talking about. Lastnight I raised the car, and dropped the trans pan and drained the fluid. I am prepared to to the shift kit sunday morning so please respond before then.

Lee
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Old 03-25-2006, 02:31 PM
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I guess i'll have to spell out my words around here, and i didn't want to come off like a know it all. I was trying to give him as much advice as possibly to maximize his potential for success. I think i built my first trans when i was 13, it was a 700. I started building a hydroplane when i was 10 and rebuilt and tuned the outboard for it when i was 14.

I realize you might not run them down with an impact gun, but people have, and you never know. I've seen multiple transmission rebuilds where the pump wouldn't lay flat (because the inside wasn't correct) and the tech just ran the pump bolts down and jammed it in and broke the pump and other hard parts. Unfortunately there are alot of hacks in this industry, the attitude of "just get a bigger hammer" is the worst. Why not just get it right and have the satisfaction that you put it together right. How many times can you not get the drainplug out of the oil pan because some idiot at walmart jiffy lube ran it in with an impact. There's my rant for the day.

About the inch pound torque wrench, if this is the only time you ever want to take your valve body out, you can just tighten it by hand. Having one does help alot in all aspects and if your a tool junkie like me its a cool addition.

Defiantly keep us posted on you progress.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2006, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
I guess i'll have to spell out my words around here, and i didn't want to come off like a know it all
You don’t have to spell out anything. Is what is needed is my apologies. And you have it. The information that you gave out is good advice and respected. It is not any of my business to doubt you or interfere with your advice given. I can promise you it will not happen again and I look forward to your postings of the future. Sometimes I can be a real jerk and the dang pills I am on don’t help me any. My sincere apologies..Troy
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Old 03-25-2006, 09:08 PM
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Yea man, i wasn't really offended, we are all here to help eachother

Brendan
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2006, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sha_ba_do_bang
Yea man, i wasn't really offended, we are all here to help eachother

Brendan

Thank You Brendan, It is appreciated Troy
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2006, 09:24 PM
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Use Vaseline to hold in your check balls. The tyranny fluid will dissipate it and it causes no harm to the tyranny components.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2006, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sha_ba_do_bang
I guess i'll have to spell out my words around here, and i didn't want to come off like a know it all. I was trying to give him as much advice as possibly to maximize his potential for success. I think i built my first trans when i was 13, it was a 700. I started building a hydroplane when i was 10 and rebuilt and tuned the outboard for it when i was 14.

I realize you might not run them down with an impact gun, but people have, and you never know. I've seen multiple transmission rebuilds where the pump wouldn't lay flat (because the inside wasn't correct) and the tech just ran the pump bolts down and jammed it in and broke the pump and other hard parts. Unfortunately there are alot of hacks in this industry, the attitude of "just get a bigger hammer" is the worst. Why not just get it right and have the satisfaction that you put it together right. How many times can you not get the drainplug out of the oil pan because some idiot at walmart jiffy lube ran it in with an impact. There's my rant for the day.

About the inch pound torque wrench, if this is the only time you ever want to take your valve body out, you can just tighten it by hand. Having one does help alot in all aspects and if your a tool junkie like me its a cool addition.

Defiantly keep us posted on you progress.
dear shabodobang:

Well I'm moving along with that shift kit project on the Turbo 350. I just removed the detent valve clip, and then loosened all bolts on the valve body and dropped the valve body out. What a mess. when dropping the valve body you have to remove the "Z" shaped linkage clip that connects the valve body to the rooster bracket. I had to let it drip for 2-3 hours as it drained about half of the torque converter also before the dripping stopped. There is no such thing as having to many rags, shop towels, and cardboard for this job, not to mention 1 or 2 large (24" x 24" minimum) size drain pans and some empty 1 gallon plastic jugs with lids to dump the fluid into (about 6 quarts). My next step is to remove the seperator plate, then the main plate and gaskets (and check ball valves) I will keep you posted with my progress.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2006, 11:29 AM
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Sounds good, thats why we pull them out of the car to work on them, but it is a pain on the ground, so its pretty much one half dozen and the other.

Did you ever tell you what kind of vehicle?
Any metal in the pan? how does the fluid look?

Brendan
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2006, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sha_ba_do_bang
Sounds good, thats why we pull them out of the car to work on them, but it is a pain on the ground, so its pretty much one half dozen and the other.

Did you ever tell you what kind of vehicle?
Any metal in the pan? how does the fluid look?

Brendan
Well lastnight I had about 45 minutes to work on it so I dropped the factory valve body plate and gaskets, seperator plate and (4) check balls. So far so good. I also drilled out the (2) holes in the new B&M trick plate to 3/16" per their instructions. Then I went and read the instructions a couple more times for the next few steps so I understand what's going on. I finally get it. I am now ready to install the (2) new gaskets, B&M trick plate, seperator plate(s), and (1) check ball. I'll keep you updated.

The trans fluid oil plan looked pretty good. No signs of significant damage or deterioration. It was dirty but wiped off with a rag just fine. There was however a some tiny metal pieces in the trans fluid filter. Not that much. I am just going to ignore that for now because I am NOT pulling the trans and rebuilding it now - maybe next winter when it's stored. For now I'm going to drive the heck out of it since summer is coming..... The trans fluid looked good.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2006, 05:48 PM
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Sorry for late reply. Transgo kit involves taking out valve body and exchanging springs and a few simple parts. Kits with written instructions, video, color coded parts, 800# tech serviceline, tech service support from Sumitt Racing ( where to buy for less than $100.00). What it does is allow you to stay in any gear, manually, as long as you want. So you can shift like a manual transmission. If you put it in DRIVE it will shift like an automatic... Best of both worlds for cheap bucks. Problem with less expensive Shift Kits is cheap parts, little instructions, no help, limited results... but cheap price, You kind of get what you pay for... Transgo 2621 Merced Ave El Monte, ca. 626-443-4953.... THERESA
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2006, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theresa Shank
Sorry for late reply. Transgo kit involves taking out valve body and exchanging springs and a few simple parts. Kits with written instructions, video, color coded parts, 800# tech serviceline, tech service support from Sumitt Racing ( where to buy for less than $100.00). What it does is allow you to stay in any gear, manually, as long as you want. So you can shift like a manual transmission. If you put it in DRIVE it will shift like an automatic... Best of both worlds for cheap bucks. Problem with less expensive Shift Kits is cheap parts, little instructions, no help, limited results... but cheap price, You kind of get what you pay for... Transgo 2621 Merced Ave El Monte, ca. 626-443-4953.... THERESA
I'll let you know how it turns out. I'm 75% done with it now. leaving town for a few days. Should have it done next week.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2006, 08:54 AM
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I've been watching this post because I plan on putting the B&M shift Kit in my C4. I know the C4 is different but I wanted to see if you had finished it and drove it yet to know how if feels. I plan on using the Street/strip set up in my truck since it's not going to be used a truck and its not my daily driver.

Jason
77 f100
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