HELP!!! Bad bog and 50 degrees total timing? - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2008, 08:44 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: ny
Posts: 37
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Absolutely! Thanks for all the info. This site is great. Definitely changing the cam because I wanted a more chop sound to my motor. Just not sure which one. Like I said, thinking about comp ca part #08-601-8 with 1.6 rockers will give me 235@556 and 249@549exhaust. I will have to change the springs as I was told. Willl keep you posted!!! Thanks again

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2008, 08:59 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: QUENCH AAARRRGGGHHHH!!!!
Posts: 95
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
1st off, if the timing actually is close to 50 degrees or over, the engine will roll over like it has a weak battery, reaaly slow. If it does not your light or method is off. If the cam was one tooth off it would not run at all. It might take your eyebrows off with a few backfires though. To solve the distributor hitting the firewall, start at no 1 and move all the wires back one terminal. WITHOUT pulling the distibuter rotate it back, about one mark on the cap. If you have a wicked off idle bog, the 1st thing to check is the primary squirter, Does it squirt? If not, either the plastic cam on the shaft is broken/missing or some one may have reversed the bowl gasket, blocking the pump shot hole. The only other thing for me to say is, i think your jetting is really rich. A power valve is worth about 10 jet sizes and running a 70s and 83s in a mild street chevy sounds a little much. That much fuel could support 500 horse power! good luck!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2008, 09:02 AM
RPM's Avatar
RPM RPM is offline
World Class ASE tech
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Hills of TN
Age: 63
Posts: 703
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle1
Absolutely! Thanks for all the info. This site is great. Definitely changing the cam because I wanted a more chop sound to my motor. Just not sure which one. Like I said, thinking about comp ca part #08-601-8 with 1.6 rockers will give me 235@556 and 249@549exhaust. I will have to change the springs as I was told. Willl keep you posted!!! Thanks again
That is a lot of valve lift. Be sure to check valve to piston clearence and retainer to guide clearence. Things get real ugly when they run into other parts.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2008, 09:17 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Age: 50
Posts: 4,021
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 23 Posts
compression numbers will be very low if the cam timing is off.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2008, 10:00 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 1,885
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle1
But now, I can't adjust it because the square part of the hei distributor hits the firewall. Does this make sense that if the distributor was off a tooth, it will show 50 degree timing but its really not. Do I bang the firewall or leave it the way it is? I appreciate any help. I'm learning a lot as I go along!!! Thanks
Your distributor is off a tooth and the rotor is out of phase.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2008, 05:57 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 14
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I am having a similar problem with my crate 350 engine. Does it make sense that I could advance my HEI to 60 deg at idle, and the engine still run? This is with 2 different known good advance timing lights. Seems to me my balancer would be spun, but I used a pencil in the spark plug hole (sorry no TDC tool) and it is really close, if not right on. Could I have a cam that is jumped a tooth? The engine runs really well if I set the base at 28 to 32 deg, with 20 mechanical. But I also have the hesitaiton off idle????
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2008, 06:49 PM
solidaxel's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Project garage complete!
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So. Arizona
Posts: 558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdshort98
I am having a similar problem with my crate 350 engine. Does it make sense that I could advance my HEI to 60 deg at idle, and the engine still run? This is with 2 different known good advance timing lights. Seems to me my balancer would be spun, but I used a pencil in the spark plug hole (sorry no TDC tool) and it is really close, if not right on. Could I have a cam that is jumped a tooth? The engine runs really well if I set the base at 28 to 32 deg, with 20 mechanical. But I also have the hesitaiton off idle????

Have you tried to time the engine with the vaccum disconnected at the distributor and the vaccum gauge on manifold vaccum. Turn dist. until the highest vaccum is rerached at idle (below 600 RPM's), then check with a timing light and see where the tab and balancer are reading?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2008, 06:02 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 14
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I did, but my seldom used vacuum gauge was giving me a shaky reading. I will pick up a new one and try again. Thanks!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2008, 07:20 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,707
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
The first thing to do is verify if your timing marks are on with a piston stop. Also the fuel you are running can greatly affect what amount of advance the engine will need-example: Not knowing any better in my younger days I ran a 9.5-1 motor on AV gas mixed with a gallon of tolulene-this mix required 50 degrees of timing to get any power out of it. The engine didn't need the octane for sure but the poor burn characteristics needed a whole lotta timing to get cylinder pressure where it needed to be. Make sure you tune for the fuel your engine needs.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #25 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2008, 08:54 AM
solidaxel's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Project garage complete!
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So. Arizona
Posts: 558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdshort98
I did, but my seldom used vacuum gauge was giving me a shaky reading. I will pick up a new one and try again. Thanks!

Do you have a vacuum leak???
Try pinching the hose on the gauge a BIT until the needle smooths out to a steady reading then turn distributor to gain the highest reading on the gauge!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #26 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2008, 10:17 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: ny
Posts: 37
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by solidaxel
Do you have a vacuum leak???
Try pinching the hose on the gauge a BIT until the needle smooths out to a steady reading then turn distributor to gain the highest reading on the gauge!
That is what I did. When I did it with a vac, I got the motor to run a lot better. When I check to see where my timing was, It was at 50 degrees total. Does not seem right!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2008, 10:52 AM
solidaxel's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Project garage complete!
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So. Arizona
Posts: 558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
How much vacuum was on the gauge at 50*
No I don't think that is right, but how does it run?
What does the temp gauge tell you?
Did we ever determine that the TDC of No.1 cylinder (piston) was the same as the "0" mark on the timing tab and the scribed line on the balancer?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2008, 04:32 PM
solidaxel's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Project garage complete!
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So. Arizona
Posts: 558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle1
That is what I did. When I did it with a vac, I got the motor to run a lot better. When I check to see where my timing was, It was at 50 degrees total. Does not seem right!

Any more updates on your timing?
I am going to work on my problem tomorrow and wanted to check with you to see if you found out anything different.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2008, 06:48 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 103
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Actually, the best idle on that motor will occur at about 50-53 degrees advance. That part is normal, however, a motor will ask for excessive advance and will be a dog at low RPM if the cam is a tooth retarded.

I'm thinking "carb"...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #30 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2008, 08:32 PM
solidaxel's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Project garage complete!
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So. Arizona
Posts: 558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hardhatz
Actually, the best idle on that motor will occur at about 50-53 degrees advance. That part is normal, however, a motor will ask for excessive advance and will be a dog at low RPM if the cam is a tooth retarded.

I'm thinking "carb"...

,,,,,,,,, NO, we had two NEW carbs Edelbrock and a Holley same results.
Also had two HEI both known good dist. same results.
I am trying to do the simple items first before we look at removing the oil pan and timing cover to check the alignment of the timing marks.
This a NEW GM crate engine 350, but I guess it is possible for even the factory to make a mistake!
Tomorrow we we put a top dead center tool in No 1 and verify the damper first thing!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.