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05-16-2008, 08:44 PM
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Absolutely! Thanks for all the info. This site is great. Definitely changing the cam because I wanted a more chop sound to my motor. Just not sure which one. Like I said, thinking about comp ca part #08-601-8 with 1.6 rockers will give me 235@556 and 249@549exhaust. I will have to change the springs as I was told. Willl keep you posted!!! Thanks again
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05-16-2008, 08:59 PM
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1st off, if the timing actually is close to 50 degrees or over, the engine will roll over like it has a weak battery, reaaly slow. If it does not your light or method is off. If the cam was one tooth off it would not run at all. It might take your eyebrows off with a few backfires though. To solve the distributor hitting the firewall, start at no 1 and move all the wires back one terminal. WITHOUT pulling the distibuter rotate it back, about one mark on the cap. If you have a wicked off idle bog, the 1st thing to check is the primary squirter, Does it squirt? If not, either the plastic cam on the shaft is broken/missing or some one may have reversed the bowl gasket, blocking the pump shot hole. The only other thing for me to say is, i think your jetting is really rich. A power valve is worth about 10 jet sizes and running a 70s and 83s in a mild street chevy sounds a little much. That much fuel could support 500 horse power! good luck!
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05-17-2008, 09:02 AM
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05-17-2008, 09:17 AM
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compression numbers will be very low if the cam timing is off.
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05-17-2008, 10:00 PM
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05-18-2008, 05:57 PM
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I am having a similar problem with my crate 350 engine. Does it make sense that I could advance my HEI to 60 deg at idle, and the engine still run? This is with 2 different known good advance timing lights. Seems to me my balancer would be spun, but I used a pencil in the spark plug hole (sorry no TDC tool) and it is really close, if not right on. Could I have a cam that is jumped a tooth? The engine runs really well if I set the base at 28 to 32 deg, with 20 mechanical. But I also have the hesitaiton off idle????
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05-18-2008, 06:49 PM
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Have you tried to time the engine with the vaccum disconnected at the distributor and the vaccum gauge on manifold vaccum. Turn dist. until the highest vaccum is rerached at idle (below 600 RPM's), then check with a timing light and see where the tab and balancer are reading?
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05-19-2008, 06:02 AM
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I did, but my seldom used vacuum gauge was giving me a shaky reading. I will pick up a new one and try again. Thanks!
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05-19-2008, 07:20 AM
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The first thing to do is verify if your timing marks are on with a piston stop. Also the fuel you are running can greatly affect what amount of advance the engine will need-example: Not knowing any better in my younger days I ran a 9.5-1 motor on AV gas mixed with a gallon of tolulene-this mix required 50 degrees of timing to get any power out of it. The engine didn't need the octane for sure but the poor burn characteristics needed a whole lotta timing to get cylinder pressure where it needed to be. Make sure you tune for the fuel your engine needs.
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05-19-2008, 08:54 AM
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Do you have a vacuum leak??? Try pinching the hose on the gauge a BIT until the needle smooths out to a steady reading then turn distributor to gain the highest reading on the gauge!
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05-19-2008, 10:17 AM
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05-19-2008, 10:52 AM
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How much vacuum was on the gauge at 50*
No I don't think that is right, but how does it run? What does the temp gauge tell you? Did we ever determine that the TDC of No.1 cylinder (piston) was the same as the "0" mark on the timing tab and the scribed line on the balancer?
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06-04-2008, 04:32 PM
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Any more updates on your timing? I am going to work on my problem tomorrow and wanted to check with you to see if you found out anything different.
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06-04-2008, 06:48 PM
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Actually, the best idle on that motor will occur at about 50-53 degrees advance. That part is normal, however, a motor will ask for excessive advance and will be a dog at low RPM if the cam is a tooth retarded.
I'm thinking "carb"...
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06-04-2008, 08:32 PM
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,,,,,,,,, NO, we had two NEW carbs Edelbrock and a Holley same results. Also had two HEI both known good dist. same results. I am trying to do the simple items first before we look at removing the oil pan and timing cover to check the alignment of the timing marks. This a NEW GM crate engine 350, but I guess it is possible for even the factory to make a mistake! Tomorrow we we put a top dead center tool in No 1 and verify the damper first thing!!
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