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You should be getting from your jobber the complete rundown on using the products he supplies..
To answer.."It depends" on how the products you are using are formulated and intended to be applied.. Not much of an answer.. Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work.. |
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Each paint supplier will have product sheets or "P" sheets that give all that information for each paint line they carry. Today's automotive paints are a miracle of modern chemistry and because of that mixing of paints, reducers, hardeners etc. must follow strict guidelines for each product. It's not a big deal but each paint line is different and has a slightly different chemistry so you just can't mix and match. Follow the "P" sheets and you won't have a problem.
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Quote:
1. Base mixes 1:1 with reducer not thinner... thinner is for lacquer and that is like using an apple computer from 1980 some bases may mix 1:1.5 dpends on base2. You can add hardner to your base if you so choose.. this can be done at 5% max for the overall total amount in the already mixed cup 3. Clear Coats require hardner, all of them that are urethane, they mix various ways, from 1:1 all the way to 4:1 and some Euro clears have an even different mix ratio.. Pretty straight foward and simple 4. Primers also use a hardner.. that is the urethane primers.. dont waste time or money on lacquer primer.. we have already discussed why there Lastly go here and read the Basics of Basics from MartinSr and that should clear up allot |
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Like has been said, check the P pages. Everything will be in there, from the mixing ratio, to the proper item to mix with it, to the pressure to spray it at. It should also give you an idea of the "Flash" and "recoat" times. Also keep in mind that the times are "general" in that temp and humidity make a difference.
Aaron |
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