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Old 05-13-2007, 12:55 PM
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Help With Bodywork

I know alot of people may not like hondas but i need help on bodywork i have had no previous experience at all! all help would be appreciated soo much! as well as techniques and tools.

I started by takin the car down to bare metal



this is current pics of what i have gotten done






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Old 05-13-2007, 01:01 PM
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What questions do you have specifically - bodywork is a broad subject!

Looks like you stripped it with chemical stripper?

Did you take it completely down to bare metal?

What kind of coating did you apply on the bare metal as shown in the pictures..and more specifically what did you do to prep the metal before applying it?
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Old 05-13-2007, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambo_The_Dog
What questions do you have specifically - bodywork is a broad subject!

Looks like you stripped it with chemical stripper?

Did you take it completely down to bare metal?

What kind of coating did you apply on the bare metal as shown in the pictures..and more specifically what did you do to prep the metal before applying it?

some guy at this napa auto parts place told me to get a light primer on the bare metal after i cleaned it so what i did was just put on some rust sealer it was like a jelly, threw on some primer then began the bodywork! Since then i have put on more primer and more bodywork, hopefully i can continue on and haventtotally ruined myself.

I was wondering if i should block sand or get a power sander, it just seems like i sit there all day and dont make a difference, the doors is also what i would like some advice on
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Old 05-13-2007, 02:42 PM
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Is that rattle can primer you're using?

If so...you may want to stop and re-think what you are trying to do.

What are your goals and expectations for the finished product? Are you going to keep the car for a fair amount of time (over 6 months)?

A paint job is only as good as what is underneath. Good quality filler primer, Paint and Materials alone will cost you something like 1500.00 + REALLY

If you try to put good paint over cheap primer or improperly prepped metal ANYTHING could happen and if it does it will be bad!

As far as working with what you have a block sander is the way to go you want a long block though - not the 6" rubber blocks. Use a guide coat to block the primer/bondo and then it will help give you a visual cue to high and low spots.

The other thing is when you run your hand across an area to spot check it - use your entire hand - not your fingers - a typical mistake is see is people running their fingers only over and area...this just doesn't work.
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Old 05-13-2007, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambo_The_Dog
Is that rattle can primer you're using?

If so...you may want to stop and re-think what you are trying to do.

What are your goals and expectations for the finished product? Are you going to keep the car for a fair amount of time (over 6 months)?

A paint job is only as good as what is underneath. Good quality filler primer, Paint and Materials alone will cost you something like 1500.00 + REALLY

If you try to put good paint over cheap primer or improperly prepped metal ANYTHING could happen and if it does it will be bad!

As far as working with what you have a block sander is the way to go you want a long block though - not the 6" rubber blocks. Use a guide coat to block the primer/bondo and then it will help give you a visual cue to high and low spots.

The other thing is when you run your hand across an area to spot check it - use your entire hand - not your fingers - a typical mistake is see is people running their fingers only over and area...this just doesn't work.

no i am using good quality filler primer that i have to mix and costs like 100 a gallon i spray it out of my gravity fed gun, its good stuff i think
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Old 05-13-2007, 05:05 PM
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Good Answer!

If you are new to bodywork using a power sander to do anything other than feather chips or knock the rough off off body filler - you're better of to get a 12-17" block sander or Durablock

Here's a good forum thread on Durablocks and sanding...

Metal work
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Old 05-13-2007, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambo_The_Dog
Good Answer!

If you are new to bodywork using a power sander to do anything other than feather chips or knock the rough off off body filler - you're better of to get a 12-17" block sander or Durablock

Here's a good forum thread on Durablocks and sanding...

Metal work
thats awesome because i have been usin a big yellow one its like 14 inches and the sandpaper sticks to it, so im not as abd off as i thouhght
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Old 05-17-2007, 08:48 AM
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I wouldn't have stripped the whole car to bare metal only the rusty areas. Anyways rule of thumb in the bodyshops are

36/80 grit to shape filler
180 to flaten filler
220 to finish and featheredge filler.
2 coats of primer surfacer
400 grit : primer surfacer and entire car
water wash
wax and grease remover
tack with air
tack
3 coats of base or enough to acheive hiding. (light coats seem to work the best at my shop. And I always tack in between coats. Dont be afraid to rub that tack cloth on the paint either. You want to get all the overspray and trash out of the base so the surface with be smooth and clean for the clear.)
1 medium coat of clear, allow to completely flash, followed by a full wet coat. (Use the slowest activator you can get away with without running. It will level it's self out smoother).



I use a Sata Jet 2000 with a 1.3 needle for clear. 90% of the time I don't get orange peel so don't need to wet sand and buff unless customer request it and that's pretty much a $2000.00 paint job at our shop.
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Old 05-18-2007, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duallybuster
I wouldn't have stripped the whole car to bare metal only the rusty areas. Anyways rule of thumb in the bodyshops are

36/80 grit to shape filler
180 to flaten filler
220 to finish and featheredge filler.
2 coats of primer surfacer
400 grit : primer surfacer and entire car
water wash
wax and grease remover
tack with air
tack
3 coats of base or enough to acheive hiding. (light coats seem to work the best at my shop. And I always tack in between coats. Dont be afraid to rub that tack cloth on the paint either. You want to get all the overspray and trash out of the base so the surface with be smooth and clean for the clear.)
1 medium coat of clear, allow to completely flash, followed by a full wet coat. (Use the slowest activator you can get away with without running. It will level it's self out smoother).



I use a Sata Jet 2000 with a 1.3 needle for clear. 90% of the time I don't get orange peel so don't need to wet sand and buff unless customer request it and that's pretty much a $2000.00 paint job at our shop.

what does "tack with air" mean?
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:25 AM
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Using the tack rag and blow gun at the same time. Low psi!!! You can use the spray gun for this too, which is what I do.
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