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Old 10-28-2013, 07:41 PM
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Help on brake line plumbing

Hi,

I'm putting in a hydro boost in my 1973 Bronco and I'm re-plumbing the entire brake system. Nothing of the old will be reused, so I'm free to reroute and improve the old system.

I have a disk/drum setup and will be using a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve.


The stock system used all 3/16" line.

My questions are:

Can I stick with the 3/16" line all the way around, or go bigger. Any advantage to a bigger line. The Wilwood proportioning valve has ports for the 3/16" line, 3/8 X 24, I think.

Also, do I need any other proportioning valves to make it work with the disk/drum setup.

Thanks

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Old 10-29-2013, 07:46 AM
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Now that it's morning and I've had my coffee, I have other questions on this setup.

The Wilwood PV has 2 ports for the front and 1 for the back. So there will be only one line going to the back. I'm considering running only one line to the front as well and plugging the other port. This way there will be only one flex line in the front rather than two. Any issues with this.

Will I need a separate residual valve for the front or back.

Also, it seems the only Tees and junctions blocks I can fine online are made of brass. Is Brass OK, or should I look harder for steel ones. Seems all the old OEM stuff is brass.

Thanks

Last edited by Infinite Monkeys; 10-29-2013 at 08:03 AM.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:24 AM
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3/16" or 1/4" will be fine there is really no advantage to a larger diameter brake line. Brake system work off prressure not flow. I personally would use the adjustable proportioning valve.

Vince
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Infinite Monkeys (10-29-2013)
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 302 Z28 View Post
3/16" or 1/4" will be fine there is really no advantage to a larger diameter brake line. Brake system work off prressure not flow. I personally would use the adjustable proportioning valve.

Vince
I'll stick with the 3/16" since the PV came with several fittings for this size line.

Thanks
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite Monkeys View Post
Now that it's morning and I've had my coffee, I have other questions on this setup.

The Wilwood PV has 2 ports for the front and 1 for the back. So there will be only one line going to the back. I'm considering running only one line to the front as well and plugging the other port. This way there will be only one flex line in the front rather than two. Any issues with this.

Will I need a separate residual valve for the front or back.

Also, it seems the only Tees and junctions blocks I can fine online are made of brass. Is Brass OK, or should I look harder for steel ones. Seems all the old OEM stuff is brass.

Thanks
Since the wheels steer in front, you will need a flex line at each wheel. And running a line across the housing puts it in danger of being broken by debris when off roading. I would use two flex lines from the frame to the wheels to get them up where they are protected. If the truck is lifted, make sure they are long enough for that.

As long as the master cylinder is up on the firewall your should not need additional residual valves.

Brass is pretty much standard for brake fittings, tube nuts are usually steel.

You can use cupernickle brake line which bends and flares easily, and does not rust like steel line.
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Infinite Monkeys (10-29-2013)
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjenjo View Post
Since the wheels steer in front, you will need a flex line at each wheel. And running a line across the housing puts it in danger of being broken by debris when off roading. I would use two flex lines from the frame to the wheels to get them up where they are protected. If the truck is lifted, make sure they are long enough for that.

As long as the master cylinder is up on the firewall your should not need additional residual valves.

Brass is pretty much standard for brake fittings, tube nuts are usually steel.

You can use cupernickle brake line which bends and flares easily, and does not rust like steel line.

The reason for 2 flex lines in the front became apparent to me this morning on my drive to work. Looks like I should have had more coffee

The PV is going to be about a foot away from the MS.

I've been considering the cooper/nickel line. I was concerned with its durability as compared to steel. But if it's as good, or better then I'll go with it. I was planning on using pre cut and flared line and making it work. My double flares are way off.

But if cooper/nickel is easier to work with then I can do a better job of plumbing.

Thanks for your help.
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