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Old 09-16-2010, 10:05 PM
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help with camaro

Hey guys I have a 1969 camaro all apart and all primed with dupont self etching primer what is my next step. the back ground. the car was media blasted and bare metal stored in a garage and i bought it about three weeks ago sanded it all with 80g da and shot with primer. what should my next step be? sand n fill? I am not sure? thanks for the help.

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Old 09-17-2010, 05:01 AM
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Well it would have been great to have done all the body work/filler work before you etch primed it, but I know you were just trying to get the bare metal sealed up. In the future look into epoxy as your first primer to seal everything up instead of etch. Working with filler is easier that way. Well now you will want to do your filler work, and follow that a 2K (two part) fill primer. If you use a poly primer you may have issues over top of the etch. Apply a guide coat (dry,or spray can), and block sand the car until its straight as you want it. You may have to reapply primer, and use a little glaze to get all worked out perfect, but this is were the time is spent in a good paint job. After youv'e done that I wetsand the 2K with 600, and paint, or put a sealer over the 2K and paint. Depends on the color, quality, and your budget as using a sealer rather than not. I sometimes spend two weeks block sanding a car and still dont always get it perfect, but if you are using good materials (IE expensive) do it right the first time or you'll hate yourself later.
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Old 09-17-2010, 10:34 AM
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the body work is all done. the only imperfections left will be filled with the next step.can you recommend a product to use. 2k?
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Old 09-17-2010, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williambavila
Hey guys I have a 1969 camaro all apart and all primed with dupont self etching primer what is my next step. the back ground. the car was media blasted and bare metal stored in a garage and i bought it about three weeks ago sanded it all with 80g da and shot with primer. what should my next step be? sand n fill? I am not sure? thanks for the help.
BONDO WONT STICK TO ETCH PRIMER.... epoxy will ...2k will ...then use the filler...you may think it sticks and sand it and everything but if you try you can pop it all off with a putty knife or a air blower.....It happened to me... I wasted a whole day doing a hood and when I blew the dust off it peeled away at the bondo's edges ,I stuck a putty in there and it all popped right off....I used to use etch primer and 2k so it does work but epoxy is waaaay better...
If it were me I would wash the etch off with lacquer thinner,do a quick sand ,clean with wax & grease remover then epoxy it,apply filler over epoxy.finish the body work and epoxy again....if you need a 2k primer apply it after all that but SPI epoxy fills and sands so well so you wont need a 2k if you use that brand of epoxy....
It wouldnt take more than a couple hours to wash that etch off you should really concider it..and alway use those latex or nitrle gloves when working with bare steel,the oils and salts in your hands will start the rust process and if you primer over it ,it will continue rusting and you'll see hand prints every where ,after you paint...getting that steel clean is very important for a long lasting job...
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Old 09-17-2010, 02:09 PM
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ok let me recap.. I just sanded the whole car with 80grit and a da. spent 3days doing it. whiped the whole thing down with paint prep. then shot with self etching primer. there is one spot that may need a little bondo but i will sand it down and get it to metal before i apply the bondo. i have this purple stuff i forget the name of it but thats what i will use. I just etched it because it was bare and i really want to get a start on it. so at this point I want to start with prime n fill,or whatever that thick primer is called.
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Old 09-17-2010, 02:26 PM
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2K primer ....it comes in may brands and colors used for building ,and straightening,sands easy...nason works good for a low end primer ,SPI has a real good one at a good price...
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Old 09-17-2010, 03:15 PM
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Thank you thats what i was looking for
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:10 PM
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those 1st gen marrows are kinda my thing...I always have one or two at the shop I'm restoring..got any pics ????
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:23 PM
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You may want to look into using a polyester primer for priming and blocking. I use Evercoat Featherfill G2. It's generally cheaper than urethane primer,doesn't shrink as much and fills better. Also the G2 can go over etch prime. also no isocyanates in it.
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:50 PM
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we used a lot of feather fill when it first came out ,we all liked it but it sanded kinda hard and it sucked up water when wet sanding ...its hard getting used to the small amout of MEK hardner and its ez to screw up the mix...they may have solved these problems with the gen 2 but I havent used it in twenty years so I dont know...but if you dont get enough hardner in it its a PITA getting it off ...I had to do it twice...I could be wrong but I think it chipped ez too..but thats the old stuff I'm talking about ...
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:51 PM
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The etch primer may have a time window in which to apply the next primer coats. Consult the tech sheet, you may have to re-sand it anyway. If you do have to re-sand it, I would wash it off with reducer, sand it, clean it, and apply epoxy primer instead before proceeding with whatever your other primer is.
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Old 09-17-2010, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
we used a lot of feather fill when it first came out ,we all liked it but it sanded kinda hard and it sucked up water when wet sanding ...its hard getting used to the small amout of MEK hardner and its ez to screw up the mix...they may have solved these problems with the gen 2 but I havent used it in twenty years so I dont know...but if you dont get enough hardner in it its a PITA getting it off ...I had to do it twice...I could be wrong but I think it chipped ez too..but thats the old stuff I'm talking about ...
I don't wet sand it. I imagine it could suck up water. I dry sand it with 120 reprime, then 180. When everything is straight I prime with urethane and wetsand that with 400 then 600. Now when you buy it they give you 4 small tubes of hardener that is marked in quarters, with a gallon of prime. So its one tube per quart. Or half a tube per half quart. 1/4 tube for 1/4 quart. Its pretty easy to mix a pint. You need to make sure the MEK is not old because it loses its strength when it gets old and then it won't harden the prime. I used three gallons of the G2 so far and have had no cure problems. The new stuff sands very easy and doesn't clog as bad as the old stuff.
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Old 09-17-2010, 09:38 PM
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Something else I learned the hard way is MEK shouldnt be left in direct sunlight ..Its the exact same stuff you put in fiberglass resin..
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Old 09-17-2010, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashtech
The etch primer may have a time window in which to apply the next primer coats. Consult the tech sheet, you may have to re-sand it anyway. If you do have to re-sand it, I would wash it off with reducer, sand it, clean it, and apply epoxy primer instead before proceeding with whatever your other primer is.
Thats another thing to remember about etch, back in the old days we etched and then lacquer primed right away (wet on wet) but I dont know whats out there in etch primers any more I havent used them in twenty years either. but I completly understand you wanting to use it since you already have it.It will work,we used it for years, its just there are better ways these days...with etch I think all you need todo is respray I think reducer or thinner will wash it off,wax&grease remover should clean it good before re priming but test a small spot first
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Old 09-18-2010, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashtech
The etch primer may have a time window in which to apply the next primer coats. Consult the tech sheet, you may have to re-sand it anyway. If you do have to re-sand it, I would wash it off with reducer, sand it, clean it, and apply epoxy primer instead before proceeding with whatever your other primer is.

And some have a VERY tight window like four hours with NO sanding recommended! You need to recoat it with the same stuff and then top coat it within the 4 hour recoat window.

Don't listen to a thing I just said, just READ THE TECH SHEETS FOR THE PRODUCT YOU SPRAYED to be sure!

Brian
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