Hey fellas Im wanting to paint my dd truck,shes my dd/work truck pretty straight but the paints peeling&there was a small crease/dent on the rear of the cab pushed out what I could today gonna use a thin layer of bondo&straighten it out tomorrow Im pretty good with the dreaded filler.Well Im nkt looking for a show room paint job just something that isnt horrible.Im using the summit ss kit.My questions are since the rest of the paint is semi fine can I just scuff up the paint &remove the clear &shoot it without any primer?Please any ideas&help would be great.The truck is black&Im going charcoal grey,also the bumpers are chrome&the frill is a chrome looking plastic any ideas on how I prep these for paint?
05-02-2012 10:52 AM
152 views &no replys come om help me out fellas...&if your close to st.louis the beer is on me.
05-02-2012 11:11 AM
Well, you want the good news or bad news. :D Honestly, in the body shop we strip that paint off to bare metal and re-prime. If it's just the tops of the fenders or something, we sand it off to bare metal. If it's a hood we remove the hood and chemically strip it. That paint has been damaged not having the clear to protect it, its integrity has been seriously compromised.
But you did say "cheapo paint job". Sand it good, spray some epoxy primer/sealer over it and shoot your paint. How long it will last is a crap shoot.
05-02-2012 11:13 AM
To prep those plastic chrome parts, scuff the well with 180 or 220 and epoxy prime them.
05-02-2012 11:47 AM
Ok thanks,my old man told me they used to just rough up the paint &shoot it .
05-02-2012 05:26 PM
That was in the old days of straight enamel. Those days are pretty much gone. What do you plan to use for paint? Makes a big difference on how you have to prep. Is it a urethane or enamel or what?
05-02-2012 06:05 PM
Its the summit budget kit,its acrylic urethane.the truck is black&I understand black shows flaws more bit the body is pretty straight Im thinking black again but I would perfer there charcol gray but its a metallic.So far Ive only used single stage for practice.They also have a dark blue.
Im using bed liner for the rockers&all...so about 8 inches from the bottom up also thinkin about doing the bumpers with it.I live out in the sticks&theres amot of backroads so the rockers get the worst of it.They also have a black cherry but Im thinking thats a hard color to spray for a noob.Its just a lifted dodge I rip&run in.I dont need it to look perfect just looks like crap with th the clear peeling.To be honest now that I think about it Id really like to stay away from the black.
05-02-2012 09:57 PM
So can I get by with no primer?
05-03-2012 03:41 AM
If you can't afford both right now, I would cover it with epoxy primer until you can afford the top coat.
Take your time and sand everything down smooth and then primer it.
I'm not a paint expert but I'm 99% certain you'll need primer.
05-03-2012 06:20 AM
If I had a cheap job like this in the shop. I would da sand with 220 grit trying to keep everything as flat as possible. Then maybe a quick pass with some 400. Clean everything up real good, mask up the truck, then give it a good coat of epoxy primer as my sealer. then paint. At this point a qt of epoxy isn't going to cost that much. AS said earlier if that one qt of epoxy breaks the bank then just get some black epoxy and skip the paint.
05-03-2012 03:18 PM
Thankd guys I can afford too get whatever I need to for the job.What will one quart get 1 coat of primer?
Oh, and can't forget to price out that damn clear coat! lol :evil:
05-10-2012 09:10 AM
Being no longer in the bodyshop business, I do not have a reputation to protect, so I can tell you how to do it on the cheap. Prep is is the most important. Sand it as smooth as you want the finished product to be. Paint will not make up for a bad prep. Once you get it all sanded smooth and any bare spots primed and sanded, you can put on a single coat of sealer, followed by 2 to 3 coats of Summit Racing single stage urethane. This paint is thick and if you spray it to get it smooth (no orange peel) it borders on sliding the metallic. I used it to paint my T-bucket in Feb of 2010 and it covers real good. If you give it three coats, you will have plenty of film thickness to do a cut and buff it you want to make it look real good. I did a cut and buff on my T-bucket with the single stage black cherry pearl and everyone thought that it was clear coated. You may want to go with a solid light charcoal gray. As you know by now, black only looks good clean.