[heavymetalhudson]

I need help choosing my cam for my 350. Im gonna be using vortec heads on it with a th350 behind it and its going in a 1949 Hudson. The block is a 93 350 out of a Buick Roadmaster and has roller lifters, but what i noticed roller cams are so expensive. Im building a mild motor since the bottom end is staying stock just getting rebuilt so should i just get hydraulic lifters and a cam or should i spend the expensive amount on the rolller cam? Also what would be a good cam for it since it will be a driver/street performance car?

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by heavymetalhudson

I need help choosing my cam for my 350. Im gonna be using vortec heads on it with a th350 behind it and its going in a 1949 Hudson. The block is a 93 350 out of a Buick Roadmaster and has roller lifters, but what i noticed roller cams are so expensive. Im building a mild motor since the bottom end is staying stock just getting rebuilt so should i just get hydraulic lifters and a cam or should i spend the expensive amount on the rolller cam? Also what would be a good cam for it since it will be a driver/street performance car?

Definitely keep the roller! Not just for performance, but for the durability. After cleaning and passing inspection, the original lifters can be safely reused.

The Vortec heads require work if the lift is over about 0.450", and will require new springs, regardless.

A LOT of info on Vortec heads and mods to them, etc. is HERE.

[heavymetalhudson]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-31402000/ will this cam work with stock vortec heads i keep getting different ratings on lift limits of the Vortec. With these springs to be on the safe side http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-174001/

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by heavymetalhudson

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-31402000/ will this cam work with stock vortec heads i keep getting different ratings on lift limits of the Vortec. With these springs to be on the safe side http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-174001/

That cam should work w/1.5 rockers. The retainer to seal clearance might be close, so check it carefully. But if you install the seals fully down onto the guide boss, there shouldn't be a problem. There are thinner seals and you can also easily remove a bit off the bottoms of the retainers to provide enough clearance.

[ssmonty]

Just my 2 cents,
I couldn't find out if you can use this cam with the stock cam retainer plate, or if you will have to buy a cam thrust button and make timing cover mods. If the cam has the nose reduced for the retainer it can make things a bit more reliable IMO. You might want to look into it before you buy.
ssmonty

[cobalt327]

You can use one like these in the OEM roller block, reusing your old lifters (if they check out OK) and cam retainer plate. These cams are similar (+ or -) of the retro roller cam you chose above:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRO-00409LM/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-104224/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-104224/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2209/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-54743LUN/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-525-8/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-414-8/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-407-8/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-54760LUN/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-409-8/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-411-8/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-413-8/

[heavymetalhudson]

those cams seem to have a bigger lift will the vortec be able to handle them? and is there no cheap roller cams all seem to be 250 on up

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by heavymetalhudson

those cams seem to have a bigger lift will the vortec be able to handle them?

I believe the cams were all in the ballpark of what a Vortec can handle. A 0.450" lift is usually going to be fine, I've heard of 0.480" being used w/o any modifications- but even if you were using a 0.440" lift cam, I would still say to check everything, not JUST the retainer to seal.

To add 0.020"-0.030" or so is a very easy operation- if it's needed. More HERE.

A few things to check are:

• Springs for installed height

• Coil bind

• Seal to retainer at full lift

• Retainer to rocker

• Valve to piston (also both before and after TDC on overlap)

• Push rod to guide slot in head (if used)

• Rocker to valve tip (by adjusting guide plates if used)

• Rocker slot for adequate length (if using stamped/cast rockers w/pivot balls)

• Proper geometry (push rod length)

• Rocker/polyloc to valve cover

Probably something I'm missing. But it has to be physically checked, you should not take it on faith or by figuring it out on paper.

and is there no cheap roller cams all seem to be 250 on up

Oh well. I could say "you get what you pay for", or "speed cost money- how fast do you want to go?", or "a roller cam is cheaper in the long run than a flat tappet cam and lifters PLUS the additives like ZDDPlus that you have to add for the life of the engine, not to mention if you frag a cam during break-in". Et cetera.

Good luck.

[heavymetalhudson]

well my whole goal with the car is actually more of daily driver, im sick of new cars and all the bs that goes with them(emissions, electronics,one tool to do a simple job) so i decided ill build one something reliable hence the sbc chevy route instead of something cooler like a nailhead. So im looking to not make it a gas guzzler but not have a wuss and be able to get walked over by nissians and hondas at the stop light, so im kinda looking for 320+ hp especially since thats what some modern 6 cylinders make

[eric32]

I'm no expert here on vortec heads and springs but I have read some things and I believe Fbird88 and some others if they read this may be able to help you but I have seen them mention something about using some z28 springs on the vortec heads which allows for more lift and does not require machining to the heads but I could be wrong.

Hopefully they will post buy anways on the camshaft you can get a GM zz4 roller cam and it will get you over the 300 horsepower and 300 torque mark no problem and have excellent street manners and a good idle and give you some really good response with the vortec heads.
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...85071/10002/-1

I would get it and run with it. That is the same cam in several gm crate motors making over 330 horse power plus with great torque numbers.
Eric

[cobalt327]

Now I remember why I swore off ever recommending a cam for anyone except myself. It's a no-win situation.

The best advise I can give, is to fill out the cam makers tech sheet w/ALL the info on the engine and the vehicle and get their recommendation and compare that to what you already know- if anything. If you are painfully truthful, you will usually get a decent recommendation.

[GMC boogie]

http://www.competitionproducts.com/E...uctinfo/E1136/

Here is another to add to Cobalts nice list of choices.

You already have the lifters,a flat tappet cam and lifter kit is only a few $ less than this Elgin hydraulic roller.

It would be a no brainer for me...even if cost me $200 more.

[cool rockin daddy]

Gotta say, I see Cobalt's point entirely. He has recommended numerous cams that will work with vortecs yet the OP still questions it. Simple, anything over .470 lift will NOT work with stock vortecs! Find a cam with less than .470 lift and your golden. Either that or buy a pair of "beehive" style springs and you can run more lift. Sheesh.

[jimfulco]

I've seen used ZZ4 cams on Ebay for $75 or so.

[GenYnNC]

Enjoy, $189 Elgin hydrallic roller..

http://www.competitionproducts.com/E.../products/389/