[SSWEET]

I'm currently in the process of doing a complete color change on my 1996 Chevrolet Caprice from white to black and was looking for a few tips. Here's what's been done so far:

* all initial bodywork including welding/shaving of any holes, repairing all visible dents, 2k primer in necessary areas; and

* painted entire vehicle, including door jambs, with black polyurethane paint.

What I plan on doing next is block-sanding the car with 320, then 400 grit. Repair any dents that were missed the first time around. Next, apply primer in areas where I cut through the paint. Wet sand with 600 grit and clean the entire surface of the car (wax & grease remover?). I intend on doing the final paint with a base/clear combo.

Some questions I have are:

* what type of primer/sealer should I be using? is there a primer that is already black? should the entire car be primered (over top of the sanded-down urethane) or only the areas that cut through?

* should the wet sanding be done with 600 or should there be a finer grit used instead of or in addition to the 600?

* what brand of base and clear would you reccomend for a black paint job? I'm looking for the darkest, deepest black I can find?

* what else can be done to minimize the underlying white from showing in the event of a stone chip or scratch?

* any comments, critiques or questions regarding what I've done so far are welcome as are any other tips and suggestions.


Thanks in advance

[jcclark]

I would have suggested black epoxy primer first, instead of 2K.
But now at your stage of paint on the car, all you really need to
do is sand it and spray it again as planned.
You don't need any more primer except maybe repaired areas
or severe break-throughs. (less build the better)

SPI has a black that's said to be the blackest, I don't know anything
about it, but some of their other products I've used were top notch.
(I like their clear and primers)

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm

[58Apache]

Here's some SPI black epoxy primer, on top of icing/glaze that shows through a touch here and there. I have this same epoxy down on top of the electroplating black on goodmark fenders and door skin.

High build primer going on next, but it's grey like the rear of the car. Forgive the picture as this has been done with a small flash, so not the best lighting.

Steve

[SSWEET]

Well, it's been a while but the car is just about ready for paint (this has been a long and drawn-out project) after having most of the final prep-work completed.

I think I've narrowed down my BC/CC choices down to the following:

* Dupont Chromasystem Super Jet Black (G9900S)

* Dupont Chromabase 7600 or 72200 clear

* HOK Black Base BC25

* HOK UFC35 Clear

My decision will partially be affected by price, but I am looking for something of relatively high quality for the money (aren't we all).

Does anyone have any comments/experiences with the narrowed-down choices above? Can you suggest something else that fits the bill?

Thanks guys - I'll try and post some pics of this work in progress.

***EDIT*** I forgot to mention that the car will be painted in a non-downdraft, non-heated booth.

[LSX Nova]

Originally Posted by SSWEET

Well, it's been a while but the car is just about ready for paint (this has been a long and drawn-out project) after having most of the final prep-work completed.

I think I've narrowed down my BC/CC choices down to the following:

* Dupont Chromasystem Super Jet Black (G9900S)

* Dupont Chromabase 7600 or 72200 clear

* HOK Black Base BC25

* HOK UFC35 Clear

My decision will partially be affected by price, but I am looking for something of relatively high quality for the money (aren't we all).

Does anyone have any comments/experiences with the narrowed-down choices above? Can you suggest something else that fits the bill?

Thanks guys - I'll try and post some pics of this work in progress.

***EDIT*** I forgot to mention that the car will be painted in a non-downdraft, non-heated booth.

I painted my 2000 GMC pickup with Dupont Chroma Premier Black BCCC. I only had to paint one side as the damage was due to a side swipe of a small boys bicycle. I spot repaired the damaged area with primer surfacer and blocked everything out, (the damage didn't go all the way down to the steel but it did have a slight scratch dent all the way down the side). It took about five coats of primer and blocking to even out the damage. I then wet sanded the entire side of the truck with 600 wet using a 3M soft foam block, (large). I masked the portion of the truck that I didn't need to paint then applied the base and clear, (I shot the whole side all at once). I let it dry for two days then color sanded the clear starting with 1200 and moved onto 2000. I may have gone with 3000 as a final wet sand but I don't remember. The only problem I had with doing it like that is the side I painted looked much better than the factory paint job, (no orange peel). Dupont makes outstanding products that I have used for years.

Hope this helps

RGJ

[adtkart]

I would go with the SPI products, as JCCLARK suggested. You won't find higher quality, and the prices are a lot better.

Aaron

[35prog]

Another vote for SPI products. I do not have any experiance with the black from SPI, but I have photos of a project I am currently working on. This is the first time I have used these products and you will not find higher quality products for the money, and Barry is THE MAN when it comes to tech assistance. I used to use DuPont only but they are just getting to damn expensive. Universal clear buffs better than any clears I have used.