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Old 06-25-2013, 12:25 PM
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Help with dent repair

Hello everyone,
This looks like a professional forum with good people.

I hope you can help me with a dent i have on the driver's door.
The dent is on the side trim (which implies hardening) , it was much bigger but i was able to hit it from the inside and the majority of the hit is now out.
any more hits i try has no effect.

I would like to know which method will help here.
I can give up and fill the entire thing with bondo or some filler, but i know that it will be amature of me.

P.s

I just found out i cant attach pictures from mobile, i will upload in sn hour.

I appriciate the help.
Avi.

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Old 06-25-2013, 01:10 PM
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Old 06-25-2013, 02:41 PM
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Probably the best/easiest way to finish getting the damage out would be to use a stud/pin welder if you have access to one. If not a slide hammer would also work, BUT if you drill holes to use the slide hammer weld them up when you are done so no water can get behind the filler and cause a failure. You could weld a small tab of metal to it and then use a cable puller to pull it out. Also you said you were able to get behind it from the inside and hit it with a hammer. Any chance you could use a long bar of piece of wood of some kind to place against it and then hit it? Just tossing some thoughts out there.

Kelly
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Old 06-25-2013, 03:50 PM
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Thanks for your reply!

I don't have experience with welding nor access to this kind of equipment.
Can you explain in detail why the method of a stud welder would be better than the other ones? for knowledge purposes..

Yes, I have access to the behind and I did use a hammer to get a large part of it out. I can get a long bar of wood, what size ? place it against it from behind and then hit on the wood?

Basically I tried taking a small 5x5 cm piece of wood and hit it, but it didn't do any good.
The hitting I tried wasn't direct by the hammer (and can't be, the hole that allows access is the speaker hole, and its not very large) , it was on the front of a screwdriver and some other round edged tools as to not damage the metal from the inside.
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:05 PM
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The idea of a slide hammer, I just looked at some videos and saw what it is exactly.
Instead of welding the holes (which again, requires welding equipment), can't it be filled from the outside, and blocked using some kind of specialized sealant from the inside? Like MS Polymer Super 7 for example?
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:05 PM
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Have someone hold it from the outside with something like a piece of wood that they can hold on to tight with a "handle" so they can apply pressure where I have marked with purple. Something like a 1x4 that is 15-18' long so they can put the 1x4 up against that area while holding the longer portion pushing in.

You hit the red line out from the inside, a "chisel" like device but not sharp to tear the metal, something like a 1 inch flat stock a 1/4" thick that is 15-18 inches long. So you can put the 1 x1/4" up against that red line from the backside and strike the other end of the 15-18" with a hammer.

Also while pushing out on the inside at the red line have some one tap along the yellow line to relieve the pressure from that brow, it's holding in the dent as well.
That is the basics on that dent.

Brian

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Old 06-25-2013, 05:28 PM
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Thanks for the explanation Brian, I'm not very good with words sometimes. I knew what I was talking about but didn't elaborate very well.

I agree with Brian on this, as that is what I was trying to say, but didn't do a very good job of. Try a piece of flat stock (1" x 1/4") or a piece of rebar with the end rounded, a long carriage head bolt etc. Anything with a rounded end or edge so it won't cut through the metal. You can also put a few layers of masking tape or duct tape on the end to help soften the edge of the piece of metal being used.

As for using a slide hammer and not welding the holes, I would do everything possible to avoid that, as there is a very good likelyhood that at some point water will get in the hole and either start to rust the hole causing problems or soak into the filler and cause problems. If that is the only way you have to fix the dent (as a last resort) I would at the very least use a good seam sealer on the inside to cover the holes after the outside is finished, then cover with undercoating after the seam sealer has dried. You'd probably be surprised how much water actually runs through the inside of a door, thats why the factory has drain holes in the bottom .

Kelly
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Have someone hold it from the outside with something like a piece of wood that they can hold on to tight with a "handle" so they can apply pressure where I have marked with purple. Something like a 1x4 that is 15-18' long so they can put the 1x4 up against that area while holding the longer portion pushing in.

You hit the red line out from the inside, a "chisel" like device but not sharp to tear the metal, something like a 1 inch flat stock a 1/4" thick that is 15-18 inches long. So you can put the 1 x1/4" up against that red line from the backside and strike the other end of the 15-18" with a hammer.

Also while pushing out on the inside at the red line have some one tap along the yellow line to relieve the pressure from that brow, it's holding in the dent as well.
That is the basics on that dent.

Brian

Of course that is a GREEN line not yellow. DUH!

Brian
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Of course that is a GREEN line not yellow. DUH!

Brian

Brian, I was gonna make a point about that but didn't want to offend anyone. I then thought maybe it was time to take a trip to the eye doctor......

Kelly
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:34 PM
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You are too kind, correct when it's needed, and it's needed all the time with me!

Brian
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Old 06-26-2013, 02:04 AM
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Guys, you have been a huge help, I will try the steps you suggested at the weekend and will report back.

If I understand correctly, I need another person standing on the outside, holding the bar against the trim and also tapping the greenish area at the same time. I assume that light tapping is required and not pushing the entire thing, correct?

Thanks again, will keep you updated once performed.
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:45 AM
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They don't have to be tapping the green area at the same time, that is another step. The big thing is to have someone supporting that purple area while you are hitting out the read area. When I say "pushing in" I only mean "pushing" in the sense to support it. While you are hitting out the red area you need that area supported or it will be going out as well! You don't want it to go out, so you need someone to support it. Basically, when you hold something like that you are "localizing" the energy in the area you are hitting that is in. It takes WAY less effort (read that "energy") to push that area out if ALL that energy you are using is localized at the red line.

Once you have that out, or in the middle getting it all out, you want to do with carefully so that you don't push it out further than it should be. But once you have it coming out, you could have someone hole that red line from the inside, again, to localize the energy as you tap the green line which is a brow, a high spot, so you want to tap that in.

Sorry if I didn't explain that correctly to begin with.

Brian
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:11 AM
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putty knife

sometimes I'll use a putty knife over the green line and tap on it, A good body man like brian with a good ding hammer with a polished surface can tap the dent and not put in more damage . I don't always hit squarely and would put in small dings.
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:03 PM
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Hammer and dolly kit. If you have an auto body shop or harbor freight in your area they work great and have many shapes to get it out. Take time or you'll be hitting back the other way
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:13 AM
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Dent repair........

Hi,if you cant get access to the back of the dent,cut a hole inside the door,and weld it back up,when youre finished,,,or,like has been said by others,use the slide hammer,and welded pins...
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