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Help with Digital Dash Install
I have purchased a Nordskog 6 gauge Digital dash unit to replace the one in my '72 Nova. I created a templated out of Plexiglass and mounted it to the dash housing. Electrical is not my strong point and I am needing some assistance in hooking up a wire for my dash dimmer lights. My problem is that I dont know what wire they are talking about in #3 below.
Have a look at this image: (Its my nova wiring diagram with notes) http://www.vorshe.com/wiring.gif Here are the 13 steps they give me for the install of the dash unit. Can someone please take a quick look and see if I have the wires labeled right? I have corresponding numbers on the link above with the number below (#'s 1, 2, 9, 10, 12 & 13 are simple to do and not on this diagram.). UNIVERSAL 6 GAUGE DIGITAL DASH PANEL Note: To prevent electrical noise from causing the gauges to act abnormally, check to make sure that any signal wire between the senders to the gauges does not run next to the ignition system or spark plug wires. Resistor-type spark plugs and wires that are in good condition are also suggested. 1. Connect the BLACK (GND) wire to a good chassis ground. The best location is on the engine block. The included sending units provide a resistance value to the gauges. If any additional resistance is seen (because of having the grounds of the sending units and gauges grounded at different locations) the readings on the gauges will be inaccurate. 2. Connect the RED (+12V) wire to the ignition switch circuit or an accessory fuse. 3. (NEED HELP WITH THIS ONE) Connect the PURPLE (DIM) wire to the vehicle’s headlights. This will cause the display brightness to dim by 50% when it receives +12 volts. 4. Connect the WHITE (LTURN) wire to the left turn signal. 5. Connect the WHITE (RTURN) wire to the right turn signal. 6. Connect the BROWN (HIGH B) wire to the high beam. 7. Connect the ORANGE (OIL) wire to one of the poles on the new oil pressure-sending unit. Connect the other pole on the sending unit to ground. This is an isolated ground sender, so it does not matter which pole you connect to. 8. Connect the BLUE (TEMP) wire to the new water temperature-sending unit. Make sure not to use Teflon tape on the threads because the sender must be grounded to operate properly. 9. Connect the GRAY (SPEED) wire to the tan wire on the new speedometer sending unit (if needed). A 10’ length of twisted shielded pair cable is provided with this kit. This cable is provided to shield the speedometer signal wire from picking up electrical noise, which would interfere with the proper function of your speedometer. If your speedometer displays some unusual values when the engine is running, it is recommended that this cable be used. Run your speedometer signal and ground wire from the sender through this cable to the speedometer. The shield (bare uninsulated wire) should only be grounded at the sender. 10. Connect the black wire on the sending unit to a good ground, preferably to the same location as the ground from the main digital panel. 11. Connect the YELLOW (FUEL) wire to your fuel level-sending unit and make sure that the fuel-sending unit is also properly grounded. This fuel gauge is designed to be used with GM 0-90 ohms, Ford/Chrysler 73-10 ohms, VDO 10-180 ohms and universal fuel sending units 240-33 ohms. Please see the “Fuel Selector Switch” instruction page in this manual for switch settings. This gauge reads in 0-99% remaining, not gallons. 12. Connect the GREEN (TACH) wire to the negative side of the coil or, if you are using a capacitive discharge ignition system, then use the “tach out” of the ignition box. Do not connect the “TACH” input to the coil if using a CD ignition! 13. Optional. Connect the two thinner 26 gauge WHITE wires to a remote momentary normally open switch. This switch will perform the same function as the pushbutton switch found on the speedometer. If you do not wish to use this feature you may either cut the wires or cover each of the wires to prevent them from shorting to anything. Thanks Jim Last edited by jvgrago; 05-15-2008 at 05:03 PM. |
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I have a headlight switch diagram I will attatch.
Connect the wire they want you to connect to the headlights --to the park or taillight circuits----this way the lights will dim when pulled to the parking lamps positionYour notes are good on #7, #8, #11 (make sure you remove the bulbs for oil and temp.) If your fuel gage was working okay to begin with---you will be able to program the GM sender. Sealer on the the temp sender will be okay ---- if you use very little, and check for 000 resistance between the brass portion of the sender and the intake manifold or head. USE that shielded cable for the speed sensor-----I rewired my whole car and the speedometer was getting signals from the Tach at idle---would read 20mph going nowhere-----ended up rerouting the the tach wire away from the rest of the harness. This will be the same headlight switch that is in your car--just wired a bit differently----I wired my dash dimming to the taillights-----and later installed an adjustable pot to further adjust the brightness to anything I wanted. DO NOT ATTATCH THE DIMMER WIRE TO THE DASH ILLUMINATION TERMINAL ON THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH!!!---this wire goes thru the rheostat and will not operate your digital dimming feature. |
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There should be a brown wire coming out of the headlamp switch about a 14gauge wire anyway that wire should be hot when park lights are on and not hot when they are off(check with a test light). This is the wire i would use for the dimmer
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