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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2012, 10:53 AM
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I still feel you won't have the problem some say you will.. Not enough to cause a problem..

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Old 12-04-2012, 11:07 AM
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Randy's probably right. He's built a bunch of chassis.

Just hate to see you finish and then have an annoying vibration.
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS View Post
I still feel you won't have the problem some say you will.. Not enough to cause a problem..
Not arguing with ya Randy It may very well work just fine.

Once a year the Spicer rep stops by and we get Certified "not sure if that means anything" Certified in what I'm not sure lol.

The Rep brings in a stanture mocked up with a 2ft D/L with 2 joints in it that you can change the angles at will. I have to say that little tool changed some of my thinking about angles. In post#2 Pic #1 the diff looks about 2" higher than the center line. Just a Idea... Trying to iron out those gremlins can be a pain.
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:54 PM
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I have had some with a good bit of angle on them with no problems... Look at most of the 4x4's with way more angle on them... And the u-joints don't go out like some say... I had a 1979 4x4 blazer and it was very high,, I could not touch the roof standing on side of it.. And I'm 6'... Never had problems with u-joints.. So I would tack everything in place at ride height and spin the back wheels with the drive shaft hooked up and see how it feels.. But from what I see.. I would build it.. I don't see it being that bad from the pictures..
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:07 PM
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I emailed Dennys Driveshafts and he felt like I would have some issues especially with the shorter than normal shaft.

I am going to raise my transmission to help reduce my angles as much as possible. Here is our conversion:

Denny: With short driveshafts it is very important to have everything inline and no offset at all.

You will need to install a rear end that has the pinion in exactly the right place to allow for a straight line from pinion to trans.

Me: While measuring a little more I realized the over head net difference is more like 1.25" due to my engine and transmission being mounted offset.

I am planning to go ahead and use this rear end. I was thinking about bringing the transmission up to decrease the driveshaft angle.

Any thoughts? Thanks!

Denny: Get your angles as little as possible so the total amount of offset will not cause too bad of a vibration. Technically you should have vibration with that short shaft and compound angle. You might get lucky and the offset may not react so badly.
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:19 PM
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The question I have is what will your rear suspension setup be? Is it going to be adjustable for pinion angle, or fixed? If it's an adj. 4 link or ladder bar, then you'll be able to dial it in to tune it. If not then it needs to be pretty spot on to start with.
I had my pinion nose down a couple degrees too much, and it drove great around town, but vibrated pretty good at around 55-65 mph. A small adjustment on my ladder bars to bring the pinion up and it all went away.
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:47 PM
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Maybe you should believe Denny.. Good luck..
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:48 PM
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[QUOTE=mason71;1619133]
[U]Denny: With short driveshafts it is very important to have everything inline and no offset at all.

You will need to install a rear end that has the pinion in exactly the right place to allow for a straight line from pinion to trans.

Thats what I was talking about.. Your diff is "above" the center line. With a short shaft you could be setting yourself up for shakes.

I get rods in that have a offset side to side since the 8.8 is so popular and most of them are fine.

It's the up and down I worry about.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS View Post
I have had some with a good bit of angle on them with no problems... Look at most of the 4x4's with way more angle on them... And the u-joints don't go out like some say... I had a 1979 4x4 blazer and it was very high,, I could not touch the roof standing on side of it.. And I'm 6'... Never had problems with u-joints.. So I would tack everything in place at ride height and spin the back wheels with the drive shaft hooked up and see how it feels.. But from what I see.. I would build it.. I don't see it being that bad from the pictures..
Sounds like a nice truck I build shafts for those big trucks in all the time and your correct they're not bad on joints.

The differentials all always lower than what they're connecting to.
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreet6t9 View Post

The differentials all always lower than what they're connecting to.
So you think that makes a difference..
A drive shaft has two u-joints on it.. It doesn't know what end is what..

I'm done here..Like I said good luck..
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:14 AM
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Make sure things are phased properly when you decide on your angles.
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
The question I have is what will your rear suspension setup be? Is it going to be adjustable for pinion angle, or fixed? If it's an adj. 4 link or ladder bar, then you'll be able to dial it in to tune it. If not then it needs to be pretty spot on to start with.
I had my pinion nose down a couple degrees too much, and it drove great around town, but vibrated pretty good at around 55-65 mph. A small adjustment on my ladder bars to bring the pinion up and it all went away.
I am running a four link.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2012, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS View Post
So you think that makes a difference..
A drive shaft has two u-joints on it.. It doesn't know what end is what..

I'm done here..Like I said good luck..
Very true.. Except the diff will always tilt up under power. How much will depend on the suspension.

Don't be leaving all mad Randy
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2012, 09:05 AM
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rear end tilt

Rear end tilt during suspension movement will depend on your suspension design, length and location of the locators. whether they be leaf springs. parallel, equal length 4 bar. canted shorter upper bars. nascar 2 bar, with the design you use you can have the pinion angle stay parallel, point up or down during movement. With some suspensions having the pinion down at rest, it will point the pinion up under acceleration as the rear of the car squats thus having the u joints nearer optimum angle DURING Full power, mock it up or work on the drafting table with a ruler and compas drawing arcs.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreet6t9 View Post
Very true.. Except the diff will always tilt up under power. How much will depend on the suspension.

Don't be leaving all mad Randy
Well.. I hope you understand that will only happen on a leaf spring set up.. 4 BAR ,Ladder bar, And for link,, the rear end doesn't change.. Only The angle of the drive shaft will a little..

And I'm not mad... I feel if he believe's denny,, Go with it..
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