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Old 06-25-2007, 11:22 AM
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Help! Engine Builders!!!

I have a BIG problem,

Got my car runnning this weekend and Ive got some serious engine leaking problems,

I have coolant coming up the head studs

We talked to one of our good friends thats very good with engines
and he told us to get all the coolant out of the engine and fill it with water instead, let it sit for a couple days and get it to start rusting around the head studs, they it would be fine? have you guys ever done this?

Also Ive heard about a product that you can mix in with your coolant that would take care of it?

We are REALLY trying to get away without pulling the engine out, the car HAS to be in Columbus in less then 3 weeks...


Thanks guys, ANYTHING would be great

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Old 06-25-2007, 12:18 PM
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We ran into this problem once, we went back and retorqued the bolts, problem solved. If not, drain the coolant via the coolant drain at the bottom of the block, remove the studs one at a time and coat them with a light sealant.
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Old 06-25-2007, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy2boy333
I have a BIG problem,

Got my car runnning this weekend and Ive got some serious engine leaking problems,

I have coolant coming up the head studs,

My engine builder pretty much ****ed on us...so its now in our hands,

We talked to one of our good friends thats very good with engines
and he told us to get all the coolant out of the engine and fill it with water instead, let it sit for a couple days and get it to start rusting around the head studs, they it would be fine? have you guys ever done this?

Also Ive heard about a product that you can mix in with your coolant that would take care of it?

We are REALLY trying to get away without pulling the engine out, the car HAS to be in Columbus in less then 3 weeks...


Thanks guys, ANYTHING would be great
An assumption you always need to make, unless you know for absolute sure your engine is different:

Always assume the head bolts are open to the blocks water jackets at the bottom of the threads. All head bolts are therefore inserted with plumbers Teflon pipe putty or Teflon tape to prevent water seepage past the threads and bolt body where it will come out under the bolt heads.

The only solution to your problem is to remove the heads, after draining the coolant. Doing as your "mechanic" suggests is an invitation to disaster as he's banking that with straight water the bolt and block threads will rust together and stop the leak. This has two big problems, one is when that happens the likelihood of getting the thing apart without busting one or more bolts becomes a large probability and second, forever keeping water out of the oil becomes dependent upon rust making a temperature proof , time proof water tight seal, an unlikely event.

Bogie
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Old 06-25-2007, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
We ran into this problem once, we went back and retorqued the bolts, problem solved. If not, drain the coolant via the coolant drain at the bottom of the block, remove the studs one at a time and coat them with a light sealant.
why wouldn't this work for him?
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Old 06-25-2007, 02:42 PM
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All we did was remove one stud, light coat it with RVT sealant, reinstall, retorque. One stud at a time. It worked on a 400 small block we did years ago and it ran the whole mud racing season.
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Old 06-25-2007, 02:50 PM
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It's not a good scheme to undo torqued bolts or studs one at a time as this relieves the stresses at that point and could lead to warped or even cracked heads, possibly even the block deck area. Additionally, you end up with no way of knowing if the gasket has been compromised.

It isn't to say you couldn't do it one at a time, but when you consider the possibilities and probabilities against the consequences of a failure, it makes sense, at least to me, to do this properly and be done with it. It's that nagging thing in the back of mind that gets me in these type situations, the pilot and engineer in me that keeps listing probabilities of failure against consequences. In this case, if you plot the events on a probability over consequence chart, you cannot help but arrive at a point that says even if the probability is low, the consequence is potentially extremely expensive and mechanically devastating. Sooo it brings out the chicken in me, ever since I learned about Santa Claus, I haven't liked surprises.

Bogie
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Old 06-25-2007, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
ever since I learned about Santa Claus, I haven't liked surprises.

Bogie
LOL, that's good!!

My advise would also be to pull the studs one at a time and give it a shot. But that's just me.

Mark
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Old 06-25-2007, 08:37 PM
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Doc here,

You didn't mention what engine this is..

Some have "One Time Torque" head bolts/studs, then they stretch beyond use and must be discarded and replaced with new..this may apply..

On "Rust" research..What I do, Is get a Can of K&W BLOCK seal..this is NOT to repair the problem..K&W has Suspended copper in the mix..Follow the directions religiously, and drain when done..

As you pull it down, every where the cooling system had a leak, the gaskets/block will be "etched" in gold..and it will put you right on the problem (s) ..Should be no guess work.

Doc
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Old 06-25-2007, 08:50 PM
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Indian Head Shellac Gasket Sealer. made specifically for threaded and gasket assemblies where antifreeze and oil will be present.
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Old 06-25-2007, 08:53 PM
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Going by your name I'm guessing you have a Chevy. Small blocks have their head bolts tapped through to the water jackets. One thing you're supposed to do is apply a thread sealant on the threads when installing the studs/bolts as DoubleVision suggested.

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/lo...adSealants.pdf

I think that pulling the studs one at a time and sealing them will be just fine, as long as only one stud at a time is removed then retorqued before moving to the next one. We one for one fasteners all the time at work that see high steam and seawater pressures with no ill effects.

I think letting the studs rust to the block is a very bad idea. At the very least you're setting yourself up for the potential of having one or more broken studs to deal with if you go to tear your engine apart in 10 years. Removing rusted fasteners can be a nightmare.
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Old 06-26-2007, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
It's not a good scheme to undo torqued bolts or studs one at a time as this relieves the stresses at that point and could lead to warped or even cracked heads, possibly even the block deck area.
Bogie
But what happens when you remove a bolt or stud as you are tearing the motor down? that doesn't hurt the heads. At least it hasn't for me anyway. I would think he'd be fine. Just my $.02.
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