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Old 04-26-2007, 06:57 PM
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Help with fiberglass scoop modifications

Hi , I have a fiberglass scoop that I have to make "taller" by 1.25 inches for carb clearance. Have alot of bodywork experience but have NEVER worked with 'glass.

Can anyone offer any tips or a good step by step process?. The scoop is fixed where I need it and I ground all the surfaces back to clean 'glass and tapered them (not in pic). I have purchased cloth, mat and resin.

I have asked around the 'net without much luck, or even worse conflicting information.
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Old 04-26-2007, 09:21 PM
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adding to fiberglass

the way i always added to fiberglass, as in your scoop. i bought some new galvanized metal. you can get 2ft x 3 ft at lowes in the duct work area for about $3, cut it in strips and duct tape it to the front side,to support the gap , sand the back side of the scoop with 40 grit (before taping on the galvanized metal support) ,apply the fiberglass mating on the back side, once the glass is set up, remove the metal support strips, the glass will not stick to the galvinezed metal, 40 grit the outside where you removed the metal support strips, and fill in with gel resin, or duraglass filler, block sand, and blend in. it always worked for me
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Old 04-26-2007, 09:53 PM
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there's a few glass guys that frequent this site hopefully they'll chime in. The glass on that scoop does look thin in the pic-how thick is it?


The first step is to grind the cut line back a fair amount to get more surface area for your bond. The bottom piece will need to be ground all the way to the bottom IMO, the actual edge of your cut line should be knife edge thin after grinding. I think most of your layup strength will come from the inside area of the scoop where you can build it more. Use Mat on the outside and a combination of mat and cloth on the inside for strength. Metal tape can also be used to temporarily hold it together for the first application-tape the inside and glass the outside first then allow to cure, remove the tape grind for cleanliness and glass the inside. I'm no fiberglass expert but that's probably how I'd tackle it without fear. Make sure your gelcoat is ground away where the repairs will be made, finish with regular bodyfiller tapering the filler into your sanded gelcoat.
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Old 04-27-2007, 07:05 AM
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on the inside...sand and expose the mat strands on both parts...
outside,cut some cardboard strips wide enough to cover the slit and overhang about an inch on both edges,and not quite to the corners, on all four sides...hot glue in place...you now have just the corners exposed. then get a couple round jugs, cut the top and bottom off and discard, using only the middle section,cut enough off so that the edge will meet the cardboard edge ,then turn around the corner meeting up with the other edge of cardboard, hot glue in place. do this all around the scoop so that the slit is covered...
the outside should be ready to lay up against...
carefully flip the scoop over so your working inside. cut strips of mat that will fit inside the slit, enough for three layers at least, and a couple layers thats wider than the slit an inch or so. apply these layers in the slit untill its built up to the surface of the scoop, then use the wider layers to catch the edges of the scoop,(do not cut these strips,tear them in a straight line so that the fibers are fuzzy, not a square cut edge. this is called feathering the edge)you must use a compresion roller to get the air bubbles out of the glass work, let kick.

after its set, remove cardboard and corner pieces from outside, and you will have the slit pretty much filled in...sand the outside, around the repair about an inch, fill in any small divets or small holes with a light coat of fiberglass filler,(body filler, polyfair, hull and deck, for example), your only trying to fill imperfections, sand down smooth, then glass on two layers of torn strips of mat over the repair and let kick...at this point body fill around the repair and sand untill smooth, then prep for painting.. I hope this helps, it should do nicely, good luck, take pics and ask any Qs you have... Tim
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Old 04-27-2007, 07:38 AM
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You need to get rid of those blocks with the pop rivits. use cardboard, wood or metal, I like using thick posterboard. Some art supply stores sell it as matte board. Hot melt glue the board on from the back or front to secure your peices and provide a backup , starting the job from the front like badbob suggests is a good way to do it.

As stated before, knife edge your edges, (kind of like "V" ing out metal for a weld, but alot wider), then lay up 2 or 3 of 1 1/2 oz mat layers of mat from the outside..

When that cures , remove the cardboard from the back and grind clean and layup 2- 3 more layers on the inside.

You MUST layup both sides. outside AND inside, otherwise you are asking for problems with transfer and possibly splitting. When doing a repair or modification,the new mat strips must overlap the oiginal material at least 6 to 8 times the thickness of the part...( if you have a part that is 1/4" thick, your bevel or knife edge needs to be at least 1 1/2 " wide on both sides to allow the correct overlap from new material to old).

Don't try to do it all in one day, rushing the job will only make for problems later on. That scoop will be subject to alot of heat, heat will magnify any problems you will build into it, such as too resin rich of a laminate will distort , air bubbles will bust when heat hits them, a transfer line will definately appear if you only layup one side when that heat hits it.


Other than that, make sure you get all of your air bubbles out when you do your layup, and use a good marine resin. Don't use the stuff that is thick like many hardware store brands. The consistancy should be about like thin maple syrup. Thick like honey is way too thick for doing a good job. It is hard to roll the air out and usually doesn't wet the material out well.
Do a search here on the board for fiberglassing, there are a bunch of good threads that discuss technique.

Later, mikey
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Old 04-27-2007, 10:44 AM
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thats why I said to put the cardboard on the outside, give you something to lay up to, and work the inside first to strengthen the void. you can build on the inside and no one will see it.

and I agree, get rid of the blocke and rivets, when hot glued correctly, the scoop should be strong enough to handle carefully and work on.

the posterboard is nice and smooth and gives a good surface to work from...and its cheap. the round jugs for the corners/turns gives a natural bend, so you won't have to fight the cardboard...its smooth surface will give you something to work on...hot glue them both tight.

the resin you have, is it waxed? waxed resin will take the stickyness out when cured. you can get resin waxed or unwaxed...I use the unwaxed and add wax solution as I need it.

I use newspaper and masking tape and cover everything i'm not glassing.

be sure to clean the surface with acetone(lightly) before each application.
be sure to use a compression roller to get out air bubbles.
be sure to CUT the strips that will go inside the void and to feather the edges on the strips that go on last.
be sure the inside has cured before moving on to the outside.
be sure to fill in any divets so theres no air pockets along the joints
be sure to feather the outside layers of mat. It will be much easier to sand and blend to the scoop.
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Old 04-27-2007, 07:33 PM
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My first post here and I am blown away by the excellent responses!

I'm going to ditch the blocks as suggested and the plastic jugs are a great idea for the corners.

Thanks EVERYONE for taking the time to help me out. I appreciate it


I'm gonna give it a shot
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Old 04-27-2007, 09:23 PM
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you can do it...just don't hurry...this will work fine...I have some cracks on the rear deck of my vette and when i repair it i'll document each step...I should document simple lay-ups and casting... I believe I will...

but for you , remove the blocks, and brace it up with the hot glue method, you wont believe how strong it can be..then do it....follow the directions, and if the resin starts to thicken...dump it and clean up the tools and remix...don't bother to get in "that last step"

and keep a paint cup with acetone close by cause thats where you should keep the compresion roller and puttty knives in as you work...don't spill it...

Last edited by Timmijoe; 04-27-2007 at 09:29 PM.
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