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Old 10-09-2009, 04:48 AM
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help with getting rid of body filler lines

i've been working on my truck fender and no matter how much sanding, priming/painting I do once the paint dries I can still see where the filler was sanded. I've tried to feather it with 600 grit paper but no luck. So what's the secret???

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Old 10-09-2009, 06:34 AM
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Mine is like that too, until the 2nd coat of primer. What are stage are you seeing the sanding lines ?

What process are you using to "paint" epoxy primer sealer , then primer surfacer?

Bob
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Old 10-09-2009, 06:59 AM
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It's not a large area so I've been using spray can primer and paint. It's like once the paint dries you can see where the body filler has been placed. Drives me nuts.
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Old 10-09-2009, 07:53 AM
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Ya, that stuff is not the best for good body work. Its very thin and doesn't cover well. Is it just sandable primer or primer filler? I have used that stuff (from Autozone) on small pieces with good results. But it does take a few coats and resanding to get it to fill well.

Your not going to paint the whole truck with it are you ?

Bob
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Old 10-09-2009, 08:00 AM
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no the area I'm working on is only 10" or so in diameter. I haven't tried a filler primer might be the way to go. thx
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Old 10-09-2009, 09:43 AM
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When sanding filler the edges should feather out to the point of being able to see through the filler to the metal underneath. Before you ever put primer over filler you should be able to spray a wax and grease remover over the area and sight down the panel. Anything you can see in primer will show up when you put a shine on the filler. Do not spray primer over filler until you have the filler completely feathered out. A lot of people make the mistake of keeping their filler area too small. Even if you have a small damage area that you are working you have to carry your filler out to allow room for feathering.

If you keep your filler are too small you end up with hard lines where the filler stops. If your damage area is 6" X 6" you should spread your filler 10" X 10" to give yourself room to feather back into the substrate. As I stated before though, before ever spraying primer you should spray it down with a filler safe solvent (never water) and it will tell you whether your filler is right or needs more sanding. 90% of the time people do not block enough filler away.
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Old 10-09-2009, 12:44 PM
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Sounds like you have repair edge mapping, where solvent attacks and swells the filler edge. Stop using lacquer primer and use a 2k primer, and you probably won't have that problem.
If its scratches that are showing up, well then your probably either applying too heavy of coats-not enough flash time between, not finishing off your body filler fine enough, or not allowing you primer to sit long enough before sanding.

Lacquer primer shrinks a lot, and should be allowed to sit probably at least a week before sanding and painting. Lacquer also has harsh solvents, as well as not being a great sealer against solvent attack from other coatings.

A 2k primer is 10 times the primer that a lacquer is, and really not that more expensive when you consider how much more build a 2k primer has as well as how much better.
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Old 10-09-2009, 03:13 PM
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There are actually 3 secreats...

http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthread.php?t=936

http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showpos...9&postcount=10

http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showpos...5&postcount=27

The key is a primer that doesn't react with film edges,

Last edited by milo; 10-09-2009 at 03:46 PM. Reason: went and found the third secreat
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Old 10-09-2009, 06:51 PM
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Ya, that stuff is not the best for good body work. Its very thin and doesn't cover well. Is it just sandable primer or primer filler? I have used that stuff (from Autozone) on small pieces with good results. But it does take a few coats and resanding to get it to fill well.

Your not going to paint the whole truck with it are you ?

Bob
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Old 10-09-2009, 07:13 PM
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Thx to everyone for your replies, I think I know now what I have been doing wrong. Much appreciated!
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