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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2010, 06:13 AM
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I would try putting 2 or 3* more initial and see if it wakes up a little

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2010, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqzbox
Absolutely no instructions came with it on adjusting the adjustable vacuum advance. Does it add or subtract advance degree's or just control the rate of advance? Which way do you turn it for what adjustment?
Crane Adjustable Vacuum Advance Can and Limiter Plate Instructions:

#99619 Instructions.

Accel #31034/31035 Adjustable Vacuum Advance Can Instructions:

#31034/31035 Instructions.

To limit the total amount of vacuum advance w/an HEI-type distributor, you may need to physically limit the vacuum advance can's travel w/a vacuum advance limiter plate like the Crane #99619-1, #99619 Instructions.
Or you can easily make one. This is if the can you now have doesn't limit the total vacuum advance supplied. These instructions are the same as for the can/limiter plate above.

Neither can's info says what is changed- the total amount of advance or the tip in point, i.e. the amount of vacuum required to initiate vacuum advance.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2010, 07:50 AM
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Thanks for the links there Cobalt. Although I don't know what brand the adj. adv. is (that's what you get with made in China) it seems to me that either way, they all adj. the same. Clockwise brings adv. all in earlier and counter clockwise later with less.
To be honest with you, if I can get the bottom end back with just some tweeking of the adv. can I'm all for it as it's a pain in the *** climbing over the engine and taking the cap off. I'm getting too old for this **** and even envision digging a ditch in the drive to lower the truck to work on! Sure would make it easier than dragging around a 10" wooden step.
Going out to test the cold start this morning got down to 38* last night. If it's good I'm going to give the adv. a couple of turns in and see how it goes.
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Old 11-01-2010, 08:51 AM
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Fired up on first turn. gave the can 2 turns clockwise. Slight improvement but never got it completely warmed up passed 170*. I'll drive it to work tonight and back for a better assessment of the change. Might bump the initial up to 10* tomorrow. The hot re-start could have just been the worn condition of the old dist. Man it sure fires up fast with that hot coil.
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Old 11-07-2010, 09:48 AM
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Update

Well, it's been a week now. Made some adj. and wow, it ran good before and now it runs great. I turned the vacuum adj. all the way in and heard no ping.
advanced the initial up to 10* and re-adjusted the idle speed and A/F ratio.
It starts so fast now I can barely get the key turned back fast enough. I developed a small hesitation off idle but fixed that by stretching the squirt nozzles out a little.
From a dead stop in auto pos. D it will chirp the tires if I just dip in to the secondary's. No big deal you say? Let me tell you.

76 4x4 3/4 ton 4,880 lbs with 1/4 tank of gas in a 20 gal tank.
My 225 lbs bod.
14 bolt, 1 ton, rear axle
4:10 rear gears th350 w/b&m kit and 203 transfer case.
31" maxxis bighorn 16" rims mud terrain tires.

At this point I'm more than happy with the cheap 65,000v HEI dist. I got from KMJ performance. Thanks for all the help and reply's except for the spammer who ruined my thread with his BS add.

Another thing, I put 10 bucks of reg in it last night at 2.75 per gal. (less than 4 gal) used to get 10 mpg. I went 20 mi into town and 20 back and I have more gas than what I left with. Half the trip was 45mph and half was at 55mph at 2800 rpm. I made one kick-down to 70 at WOT. I can feel the difference in throttle feel. Position of the pedal, at cruise, is less than before. I suppose that is where the mileage increase came from.

Last edited by sqzbox; 11-07-2010 at 09:59 AM.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2010, 02:10 AM
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ontop of a bad pickup coil, your mechanical advance mechanism was probably worn out.. I had an HEI that provided mechanical advance, only when it felt like it.. sometimes the weights would stick in.. and it'd be a dog.. sometimes they'd stick out.. it'd run like a raped ape, but want to idle at 2000 rpm.

I bought a used MSD ProBillet Ready-to-Run and experienced the same thing you did.. a totally different engine glad you got it worked out!
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2010, 07:19 AM
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I didn't have any issues with the weights sticking even with both med springs installed with the curve kit but, have been experiencing what felt like slow cranking speed and starting intermittently after warm up for about a month prior to the dist. giving it up. In comparison with the factory HEI I noticed the slot that limits the total amount of vacuum advance is no longer than stock. So, basically, this dist. is the same as a factory HEI with the exception of the high voltage coil, fancy red cap, and adjustable vacuum advance capability. It has already passed my expectations in the fact that I just wanted it to run again.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2010, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
In comparison with the factory HEI I noticed the slot that limits the total amount of vacuum advance is no longer than stock.
Did you mean slot(s) for the mech adv? not sure but at any rate,,,

If it is similar to my unit it may have holes drilled in the rotor plate, if you ever need to limit the mechanical adv there is a cheap solution other than putting bushings on the slot pins, just a machine screw and nut intstalled on the rotor plate will limit the mech advance. I have some pics but not with me right now, good to here its working for ya
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2010, 12:51 PM
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i didn't think mine were sticking either until I started doing some checking with a timing light and found out the timing was all over the place...
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2010, 07:01 PM
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The slot is in the arm on the vacuum adv. assy.

Initial timing was very steady and had no problems with idle speed.

I believe now, after the fact, that the stock coil just gave it up. Even after a module change with a known good one it would start and die within 20-30 seconds when it did start. It was a 1976 model HEI. With the caps off, there is no physical difference between the new one and the stock HEI with heavy springs. I have another HEI from a 79 to compare with. Might even try swapping in the weight and spring kit to the new dist. from the 76.
With the 65,000V coil and the pro comp 10.5mm spiral wires there's no shortage of juice to the plugs for sure. It will be interesting to see if it effects the longevity of the AC r44t's.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2010, 12:42 PM
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it won't hurt those AC plugs. I'm running an MSD 6AL (multiple spark discharge) and their blaster 2 coil.. if anything the extra juice does a great job of keeping the electrodes CLEAN

I had a coil go bad in my astro van once.. (not coil-in-cap) but it's al the same hei stuff..
put a brand new coil in it.. no good wouldn't start.. had it towed home.. spent days checking and rechecking the ignition system.. it would show spark.. then it wouldn't.. got so much fuel in the engine and into the oil a back fire ignited the vapors and blew the valve cover right off the head...

turned out that new coil had a crack right thru the coil wire tower and when it was wiggled just right, it would spark for a bit..
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2010, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc8oye
got so much fuel in the engine and into the oil a back fire ignited the vapors and blew the valve cover right off the head...
I'd give 20 bucks to see that!
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2010, 01:22 PM
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Plug like the higher voltage. That is why they last so long. Back before electronic ignition when voltages were in the 10-15K range a set of plug only lasted 12-15K miles and the center electrode would be rounded off. I have pulled plugs out of modern engines with 70-80K miles and they still look great and the platinum last even longer.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2010, 05:10 PM
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yeah high amperage destroys the electrodes, not the voltage.

as for seeing the valve cover explosion, it wasn't pleasant being there, let alone sitting right next to it when it went off!! thank god those center bolt type valve covers hung on to the block and stopped the valve cover from becoming a projectile inside the van!!!

the engine coughed.. popped thru the tbi.. and then screamed like an incoming bomb.... the scream fizzeled out.. then a very brief pause followed by a huge KA*BANG and the van was promptly filled with smoke.. I was in the driver's seat..Dad was in the passenger seat.. first things first.. made sure everything was still attached !!! then waited for our hearing to come back along with the smoke to clear.. wish I had thought to take a picture of the valve cover. it was peeled back all the around the edges..
I suspect it damaged some seals along the way, because the engine got horrible oil consumption after that.. problaby around 150 miles to a quart.. I didn't bother doing oil changes anymore.. i just kept the old oil from the other 3 family cars for it. LOL

my astro had a large fresh air vent tube that goes from the passenger valve cover up to a collar just above the injectors for the PCV system.. as best I can figure. the scream was the vapors burning in that tube utnil they got to the crank case...
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2010, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bucket23
I have pulled plugs out of modern engines with 70-80K miles and they still look great and the platinum last even longer.
I've noticed that also but I gave credit to the FI system and computerized controls keeping the AF ratio close to perfect. In the 60's and 70's I ran 40-50K volt coils combined with HP dual point distributors with condensers the size of 35mm film containers and the points lasted longer than the plugs.
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