Help-I need floor help??
I have a 1948 Chevy panel delivery wagon. It still has a wooden floor in the rear. I need help and/or advise on how to weatherproof, seal and sound deaden in order to build a street cruiser.
not a clear/complete enough question for me...
are you wanting to keep a finished exposed hard wood boards floor???
is it in good shape???
Let's move this to General Rodding Tech.
more floor info from 48dale
The wagon has the original wood floor in pretty good shape. I must see what is involved when I put in a new wood floor or carpet the floor. I know it lets in a lot of air, exhaust fumes and noise now. I had considered putting a sheet of marine grade plywood under what ever floor I do. If I do this and lay carpet over the original floor where would I be??
1. Plywood, original wood floor, sound deadener then carpet.
2. Plywood,sound deadener, new wood.
Due to lack of experience and knowledge I'm so confused I don't know wheather to scratch my fanny or wind my watch.
to many choices and options so just/only possible ideas:
not likely the carriage bolts are still tight due to years of flexing and the wood grain has warped from wet/dry cycles so new hardware and just caulking top and bottom is a option to be original (and a no brainer)....
over time wood takes a set so it should las a long time once re-caulked...
sheet aluminum from your local awning/screening company (won't absorb fumes and odors like plywood will) as a under-layment is a option...
never have tried it on wood but Duplicolor rattle can spray bed liner coating grabs like a SOB on rough steel (to have the whole frame and floor bottom a uniform appearance?)...
on the inside a layer of aluminized bubble wrap insulation (Lowes) under the carpet (suspends the carpet for a air insulation layer and helps it stay drier/less odors)....
or on top of the aluminum sheet on the under side....
but wood is a good sound deadener and decent insulator (with help from the sub-floor) so I would leave it finished exposed inside (with metal protector strips if there are none)...
two rules for wood:
it has to be able to move/flex or it will crack...
never totally seal "all" the surfaces,,,it has to breath
floor help for panel delivery wagon
Thank you for the reply. Run the sheet aluminum by me again--I didn't absorb it. Can I get a single sheet big enough to cover the whole bottom of the original floor? Is it ribbed or flat? Would I screw it to the bottom of the original floor and how would it work at the edges to make it water tight to keep the sound deadener and carpet pad dry to prevent mildew & mold?
I think I mis-understood you plywood post???
you can just unbolt the boards and bolt the plywood on top...
I meant use aluminum sheet as a "sub-floor"...
unbolt/remove the floor and put the aluminum sheet under the wood...
it's just a moisture/air barrier,,,no reason it can't be 2 overlapped/caulked sheets if needed
those boards may well be white oak and would look great finished and exposed!!!!
so I would go the "sub-floor" protection method...
if you stop at Lowes and look at the aluminized mylar (very tough tiny bubbles) bubble wrap in the insulation dept you will see how it would "suspend" carpet for max possible air circulation for dry and least odors...
(for temporary? and cheap?),,,while you are at Lowes pick up a piece of rubber backed short nap indoor/outdoor carpet and just screw secure it some along the edges to the boards so it could come out for cleaning....
indoor/outdoor is a moisture, air, and sound barrier!!!
LOL,,,then go find a piece of that 70's long pile shag carpet to lay on top of the capet pile up indoor/outdoor (which will suspend the shag)....
to many methods options unless you define what you want for finished...
I just don't remember those old panels having wooden floors, but I can imagine the big problem you have. I would probably just remove every thing and install sheet metal to make the floor air and water tight. I would spray undercoating on it or spray on bed liner to do away with the tinny noise. I then would install the wood floor with stainless strips. Red or white oak would work great, but you need to use a high end boat finish all the way around to make sure the wood is totally sealed before you install it. When you are done, it will be a thing of beauty and very unusual. You may want a piece of carpet to protect it between shows and cruising, but if you have enough coats of quality finish, it will be quite durable.
I'm not sure how to do this I want to thank trees for the reply and suggestion.
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