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Old 03-11-2006, 05:57 PM
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Help I screwed up - Manifold Oil Leak BB Chevy


Ok, so it was to be expected. My first engine rebuild. It's a 454 chevy. I did all the usual hot rod stuff to it and threw it back together and have been testing and tuning it the last 2 weeks. I gotta tell ya, that thing hauls *** now. It's a 72 Nova.

Anyway I knew something would go wrong because I'm an amateur. Sure enough I found something. When adjusting the distributor to set timing, I noticed oil bubbles coming out between the intake manifold and the block. Yes I used a new rubber gasket piece there and silicone gasket maker. I guess I didnt use enough or when I put the manifold on it moved around a little bit during the positioning and I may have squeezed out some of the silicone. That was 3 months ago. And yes, there are several drops of oil on the floor under the car in that spot. Anyway, am I screwed? Do I have to remove the whole frickin intake manifold and do it all over or is there a cheap, quick and dirty fix.


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Old 03-11-2006, 06:29 PM
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Pull it...........no big deal........

If it was a small block Chevrolet........I would suggest you look at the oil pressure sending unit or the port where it goes......but IF my memory is correct......all my big block Chevrolets had the oil pressure port or the side of the block.....close to the clutch linkage ball.

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Old 03-11-2006, 06:37 PM
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Also, make sure your PCV and vent system is working correctly too. You shouldn't be seeing bubbles coming from there unless there is excessive crankcase pressure.

Mark
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Old 03-11-2006, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmark
Also, make sure your PCV and vent system is working correctly too. You shouldn't be seeing bubbles coming from there unless there is excessive crankcase pressure.

Mark
mark: I agree. why would oil be bubbling out of there? that whole lifter valley and crankcase should be pressure relieved through my breathers in the valve covers. I'll go check them now and make sure I can blow through them.
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Old 03-11-2006, 07:01 PM
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Doc here,

Also, cooler fluid on a hot manifold can GIVE the appearance of air bubbles, when in reality , it's just boiling...(try it with carb cleaner..to see what I mean.)

If it runs good, It must not be leaking into the induction system.

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Old 03-11-2006, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
Doc here,

Also, cooler fluid on a hot manifold can GIVE the appearance of air bubbles, when in reality , it's just boiling...(try it with carb cleaner..to see what I mean.)

If it runs good, It must not be leaking into the induction system.

Doc
doc

it's definitely excessive crankcase ventilation. I discovered more signs of it. There is oil near the dipstick. there was oil near the distributor hole opening in the manifold, and when I checked my "new" breather, it was very restrictive. I modified it such that it breathes a lot easier now. I will run the car again soon and see what happens. The crankcase was under very positive pressure. Not sure why. There are new pistons and rings. I may have to add another breather or a PCV valve. I currently only have 1 breather, no PCV valve, and the other valve cover has only a oil filler cap. I may have to replace the oilfiller cap with a breather. Your thoughts?
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Old 03-23-2006, 08:31 AM
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if you do yank the intake, lose the rubber end pieces and run a 1/4 in bead of good silicone (i like that permatex coppery lookin stuff) let it set up some and pay attention to torq specs...i cant remember if bbc's have them but sb's have a plug back there too, im thinkin if it were omitted there'd be more than a bubbling though
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrd
if you do yank the intake, lose the rubber end pieces and run a 1/4 in bead of good silicone (i like that permatex coppery lookin stuff) let it set up some and pay attention to torq specs...i cant remember if bbc's have them but sb's have a plug back there too, im thinkin if it were omitted there'd be more than a bubbling though
dear HRD

I think the problem is caused by excessive crankcase pressure. My breathers and PCV valves were not setup and working properly. I made some changes and will run the car this weekend if I have time. It's still cold here in chicago.
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Old 03-23-2006, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrd
if you do yank the intake, lose the rubber end pieces and run a 1/4 in bead of good silicone (i like that permatex coppery lookin stuff) let it set up some and pay attention to torq specs...
Yep. Ditch that rubber part. Since the clamping load is determined by the intake to head torque, the amount of squish you get at those rubber gaskets is widely variable between builds, intakes, if the head decks have been cleaned up, etc. I've assembled some where you could easily slide that rubber out after it was torqued down, and I've had some that squeezed them out entirely before the intake even met the head.

The copper permatex stuff is great. I've also had similar success with black RTV and even blue RTV. The blue tends to set up with a little more adhesiveness to the aluminum, but any RTV that is oil resistant and can take 300 degrees will do.
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