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Sounds like solvent pop to me.
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same here....hope you get it fixed
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It's solvent pop and it's a real PITA!
Get your magnifying glass out. You'll need it to make sure you have sanded it all out because it will show after another coat if you don't. Roger |
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solvent pop
hi guys,ive painted a number of yachts and cars and i am not familiar with the term SOLVENT POP,can someone explain it to me?also does it only happen with bc/cc? also tell me how to avoid it ..i havent sprayed bc/cc yet,but im going to spray my 48 ford coupe..thanks.
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paint
yep solvent pop
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bob. in the marine industry its called porosity. you might be familiar with that!! |
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The 7900 clear is a high solids clear that requires some really good atomization to get it on right, the fisheye looking first coat indicates the material isn't getting atomizes well enough. When this happens a person usually tends to put more clear on in order to get a smooth surface and this leads to some major buildup fast which then leads to solvent trapping if the surface doesn't stay open/wet long enough to let the solvents come out. I'd suggest shooting a few test panels in order to get your setup right before you try painting the parts again. Try cranking your air pressure up some to get the clear atomized or try a different gun. The webbing is from applying base then clear then base then clear when all is fresh, what is happening is the second application of base wrinkled the clear below it, this can happen after you clear trapping solvents below. Hope I made sense.Bob |
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What Bob said and the temp your shooting at is VERY borderline.
That clear is probbly really thick at that temp plus the parts themselves are cold too compounding the problem. Your obviously bombing on too much product trying to get it "right" and the solvent is really taking a toll on the job. It's time to take a break and regroup and get some place warmer to shoot. As for "recommended" flash time,you can throw that out the window. It could take 1/2-1 hr. between coats at that temp. I'd wait till it's basically touchable before applying another coat. Last edited by Bee4Me; 02-01-2006 at 09:35 PM. |
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Thats exactly what im doing, I forgot who makes the gun I want to say "sharp", but it has a 1.4 or 1.5 tip going off memory, anyhow the droplets when i spray are huge, more like the size of a pen tip. So I'm probably spraying too much clear to make it smooth out. Thanks I will try some test parts, and get the temp up to 70's.. Ohh I was using 25psi in a gravity feed gun.
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Need to check out the gun, if you have had it a long time it may not be an HVLP and if thats the case your going to need 40-55 lbs to get the 7900 through a sharp. 1.4.
Also just to be honest with you if it is a Sharpe HVLP, your going to have a hard time shooting that clear anyway, so start with the air in the 30's and adjust up as needed just to start overriding. How did the gun lay the base? Color of base? How many coats of base? How long did you let the first coat of base flash as thats more important than letting set overnight depending on number of coats and color. Also did you use a sealer, 2part or one part? Are you sure you can wet sand the primer you used? From what you described, your solvents are coming from deep, could be first coat of clear, base, sealer or primer. If first coat of clear, the second coat will usually blow up in seconds or a couple of minutes. Can't answer till we have other facts. |
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paint
hey what temp reducer are you using for the base .and what temp reducer are you using for the clear .also what mixing ratio are you using for the clear
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My theory is that these higher solids clears are hard for people to handle. I remember when I first started shooting them in the early 90's and found my spray technique lacking. (I still find it lacking, lol!) If the mfr. allows it, a little extra reducer in the clear can go a long way to help sprayability, especially with a gun that isn't so good. |
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you may want to check out this link... I think it may be of interest to you
good read |
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