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Old 02-16-2012, 05:52 AM
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Help! I wrinkled my paint job

Hi Guys. I recently painted my bicycle frame. I used plasti-kote cans. Roughed the old paint with 400 grit, thin layer of primer, yellow base coat, and clear coat. I let the base dry about 40 minutes and sprayed clear right over it. I used thick coats to get a shiny even finish. There were some imperfections. After 72 hours I sanded those areas down to the primer and then shot the base coat right on top. Bam! paint wrinkles all around the edges of the sanded areas. I know the paint wasn't completely cured because it was still a little soft. But how to I fix the wrinkles now without stripping the whole frame? Thanks!

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Old 02-16-2012, 10:16 AM
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You don't.
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:02 PM
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With sandpaper (180grit) and take it back to bare metal and start all over again - sorry, but on something that small, that's the only way - and I would suggest better paint, even DupliColor from AutoZone, etc is better
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:41 PM
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Some base coats are like lacquer (some are lacquer) and will wrinkle clear coats Thats why it wrinkled on the edges of the clear! On touch ups!! Re-sand the wrinkled edges and areas of touch up spray your base coat but back away from your surface and dust the base on in very lite coats ( very light ) and let dry between coats as not to get the clear coat too wet!! If you only have a few spots to do this will work!! If you have a lot re-sand & repaint the whole bike!! Try this on one spot and see. before you do the whole bike

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Old 02-16-2012, 01:37 PM
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Thanks guys!
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:38 AM
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One more question: Can i spray good clear coat over the crappy paint and get a hard finish? Can a good clear i can buy online and what size spray gun nozzle to use?
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kosb85
One more question: Can i spray good clear coat over the crappy paint and get a hard finish? Can a good clear i can buy online and what size spray gun nozzle to use?

Yes you can shoot quality clear over crappy paint and it will get a hard finish, but that is all you get, what is under the hard finish will be soft so the clear could move on it or chip off it very easily.

I sprayed a bike with neon craft paint, then put automotive grade urethane clear over it and it worked out very well, lasted for years. Of course the neon faded BAD as all of them do, but the clear held up fine. This was before there was any neon auto paint on the market and I'll tell you what, it was worth the experiment and work, man-o-man did I get attention with that bike! The front of the bike was yellow, the back rad with a fad in the middle. The back rim was red and the front yellow. I then put a strobe stripe across the middle upper tube with the red over the yellow and the yellow over the red, it was WILD. Had a lot of fun with that bike.

On the clear, there is a real 2K urethane clear in an aerosol can that goes for about $20 a can, you would probably need two being there is so much wasted in overspray when doing a frame. But this stuff is amazing, I have used Rubberseal brand. It holds up just like a urethane shot from a gun. That may be an option for you.

You are going to have to be very careful not to wrinkle it again. What happened to you was the solvent from the clear got under the substrate, be it base or clear over the base, both can lift like that when the solvents get uner them. It will happen when you sand the base or clear thin, or if it's applied thin and let to dry too much between coats.

Brian
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