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Old 07-12-2010, 07:40 PM
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Help me fix my carb problem. (Holley 1460)

Oh, I've got a mostly stock 355 in a Jeep project of mine. Other than the re-worked 305 heads and Performer RPM intake, it's essentially stock.

Carb is a used 1460 type Holley, the cheap version without adjustable float levels.

At first it wouldn't idle at all, totally load up with fuel and start fouling plugs with in 15 minutes if you were keeping it under 3500or so RPMs.

Rebuilt it using a chain parts store refresh kit. Nothing seemed out of sorts and no adjustments were made. Put it back together it it runs essentially the same way. Very little change in how it acted.

To eliminate motor/vacuum issues, I put a friend's Edelbrock 850 as a test and it fired right up and had a solid smooth idle. Obviously a bit more carb. than it needed, but it ran so muhc better than with the Holley.

This is my first experience with Holley and I'd really like to figure this out. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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Last edited by ComingApart; 07-13-2010 at 06:30 PM.
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Old 07-12-2010, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ComingApart
Oh, I've got a mostly stock 355 in a Jeep project of mine. Other than the re-worked 305 heads and Performer RPM intake, it's essentially stock.

Carb is a used 1406 type Holley, the cheap version without adjustable float levels.

At first it wouldn't idle at all, totally load up with fuel and start fouling plugs with in 15 minutes if you were keeping it under 3500or so RPMs.

Rebuilt it using a chain parts store refresh kit. Nothing seemed out of sorts and no adjustments were made. Put it back together it it runs essentially the same way. Very little change in how it acted.

To eliminate motor/vacuum issues, I put a friend's Edelbrock 850 as a test and it fired right up and had a solid smooth idle. Obviously a bit more carb. than it needed, but it ran so muhc better than with the Holley.

This is my first experience with Holley and I'd really like to figure this out. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Float level is either set even to the float bowl, or else to the setting given in the rebuild kit or other spec sheet.

The correct gaskets have to be used. The power valve has to not leak. The air bleeds have to be unobstructed.

The jets could have been replaced, but this shouldn't affect the idle, anyway.

The mixture screws should cause the engine to stall out if they're screwed all the way in- if this isn't happening it's likely the transfer slots are too exposed.

If the initial timing is too low, the transfer slot will be overexposed by needing to turn the curb idle screw out so far to get an idle. Instead of that, try 12-14 degrees of initial timing, and then slow the idle by using the curb idle screw. This will lessen the exposure of the transfer slot.

If this doesn't get you control of the idle mixture screws, you will need to hook the vacuum advance to a manifold vacuum source if it isn't already. This will cause the idle to rise, lower it w/the curb idle screw as before.

Last edited by cobalt327; 07-12-2010 at 08:08 PM.
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