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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by powerrodsmike
Looking at the pics of that crossmember, I would not put the tubular a arm conversion on it..It's not boxed, it looks like fairly thin material and the tubular a arms/ pivot tube don't do well when installed in a crossmember like that. It really looks like a donor car crossmember, which is about all anyone had back in the '70s...Those are really thin, and not suited for the tubular arms at all. There have been several threads about MII tubular A arm crossmember failures..

Here's one pretty good one that discusses some of these points.
IFS failure = tragic results

Later, mikey
thanks, looking at it the top spring hat is a seperate piece from the crossmember and their are two mounting locations for the lower cntrol arm , would a donor be that way? I am not against strut rods and stamped control arms but I am trying to narrow my front track width. does anyone offer narowed stamped control arms? I could also fully box it in to strengthen it the bottom is already boxed . thanks for all the input

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Last edited by 71corvette; 06-13-2010 at 02:23 AM.
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:05 AM
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IIRC the early kits that you could buy had the upper hats and weld on strut rod mounts. Getting the crossmember out of a donor car is a PITA, and the stock upper hats didn't work on frame type cars anyway after you hacked them out.
I don't know of anyone making short a arms for a MII, keep in mind that you would need to replace both lower as well as upper to retain any suspension geometry and keep the camber right..Also, the upper a arms are really close to the spring hat in alot of installations, so getting short uppers may be the issue with getting short lowers..

The guys who have too wide track width issues usually get wheels with more backspacing to fix it. That creates some other small problems, but they are usually not as hard to deal with as shortening a arms.

Speedway and Heidts both sell tubular a arms, that use a strut rod.

You may find that once it's all said and done, that you could get a whole new crossmember and save yourself a bunch of grief.

Later, mikey
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:35 AM
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sort of what I was thinking, a new crossmember. but for now I just want to drive the car and not tear it down ( I already have two project cars going) so I think I will probably go with a new brake and spindle kit wich will bring it in a bit and find some wheels with enough backspacing.
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Old 06-13-2010, 12:12 PM
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I could be wrong, but I think those look like the original MII rotors, or maybe Granada 10" rotors with GM calipers. What is the diameter and bolt pattern? Give one of the brake companies a call, there are several different 11" rotors available, some make the track width wider than others.

ECI has some brake kits and they say which ones move the wheels out from the stock location and which ones don't.
http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/mustang_p...nversions.html

Be careful if you start trying to use parts store rotors, pretty much all of the swap rotors that come with the brake kits have mix and match bearings and races to get them to fit the MII spindle...Some are actually less than perfect matches too, but seem to work. (case in point: I once got a set of rotors for a fatman kit, and they sent out a rotor with a bearing race to install that actually lets the rollers hang out the race a little bit)

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Old 06-13-2010, 12:33 PM
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I need to measure the diameter but it is a chevy bolt patern. I think i will get the whole 11 inch brake kit with new spindles as well.
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