[eric32]

Hello guys I am getting ready to install my first timing chain and I have some questions about installing my new timing cover. First off I know I will have to loosen my first couple of oil pan bolts and pry it open with a flat blade screwdriver to get it down enough to get my old timing cover off. I currently use rtv silicone for my front seal and whats the best way to get all of the old silicone off and what do I do to make a new silicone gasket for the front after I get my new timing chain installed. I have a lot of info to use but not about using gasket maker for my front seal and how much I use etc. Do I have to install the new timing cover on first then put the rtv silicone on my oil pan lip and at the side rails at the front end or do I put the gasket maker on first then the timing cover ? Also how thick should I make the bead on the gasket maker? Also do I let it cure for about 10 or 15 minutes then bolt everything up to spec. Thanks for all your help I appreciate it a whole lot.

Thank you
Eric

[engineczar]

When you buy a timing chain cover gasket kit it should come with a new front oil pan seal as well. Just note what style seal it is when you take it apart. There are thick and thin seals. The difference will be obvious.

Scrape as much of the gasket off as you can being careful to not let the pieces fall into the front of the oil pan. Another thing is that you're going to have to do is loosen more oil pan bolts than just the front two unless you plan on bending the front of the pan which will not only ruin the pan but lessen your chances of getting a good seal.

Once you've scraped as much gasket as you can wipe both surfaces with a rag that's been sprayed with brake cleaner to get rid of any excess oil that remains.

Use a very thin coat of RTV on both sides of the gasket. Wipe it thin with your finger. On the rubber oil pan seal put RTV just on the ends where the gasket will hit the block and at the points where the corners of the oil pan are not all the way around where it sits in the timing cover.

[eric32]

Hello thanks for your help I only have rtv silicone for my front seal not a rubber seal with silicone at the ends. I will have a lot of scraping to do. I was a little weary on using the rubber end type seal cauuse I have heard they are prone to leak really easy but I am willing to try it and see how it does. I do believe its a thick front type seal cause the pan I have is for 1980-85 style block and it takes a thick seal. I hope things work out but when I go to lower my pan just a little I am worried about damaging my side pan gaskets. They where composite type gasket with indian head tacky stuff on it to hold it in place. Well thank you for your help it will help me a lot. Thanks Eric

[price]

The rubber oil pan gasket is fine to use with cone on the corners but no one uses the rubber end seals on the intake manifold any more. Silicone only will do the trick. Leave the timing cover bolts loose and install the dampner. Fit he seal to the dampner and tighten the bolts.
Clint

[Jmark]

Not trying to rain on your parade but trying to loosen and lower the pan just enough to get the timing cover on, especially since you mention the pan rail gaskets were glued on, is most likely not going to work too well. You will have to loosen ALL the pan bolts and pry it down about 1/2".

There are ways to sneek in the timing cover with the pan inplace but it's not for first timers and fails more often than not.

As far as leaving the timing cover loose to fit the balancer, IF the two aligning pins are in the block for the cover, it makes no difference whether it's loose or tight, it ain't moving!

[price]

J mark, You are totally correct about the dowels. I just tried my cover on a 350 I am rebuiding and it is snug as a bug on the dowels.
Clint

[Stroke]

The rubber oil pan gasket is fine to use with cone on the corners but no one uses the rubber end seals on the intake manifold any more. Silicone only will do the trick.

I disagree with the silicone only thing here. I assume the poster is referring to the intake manifold. Rite Stuff, for there and anywhere else you don't want any leaks. I try to never use silicone, sure it's great, but not for me. Permatex #2 works good for gasket dressing as does hylomar and Permatex Aviation. I've seen too many engines with silicone in the pick up and other places it should never be, which I attribute to overuse of the product. JMO

Permatex® the Right Stuff® Gasket Maker Return equipment to service immediately when you make leak-proof gaskets in just one minute with the Right Stuff.® This latest elastomeric rubber gasket technology is blowout resistant and outperforms pre-cut gaskets. Specified on production lines by GM, Ford, DaimlerChrysler and Mercedes-Benz. Temperature range -75°F to 450°F (-59°C to 232°C) continuous, 500°F (260°C) intermittent.; resists ATF, coolant, oil and other shop fluids. Protects against leaks caused by vibration and thermal expansion. Sensor-safe. Suggested Applications: Automotive and marine gaskets, valve covers, gearbox covers, pumps, compressors, oil pans, thermostat housings, water pumps

[n-gin]

I only use right stuff on all my engine work. I tried other silicones and adhesives but have failed. Right Stuff is the only thing I use now. You will instantly know the difference when you start to use it.

[machine shop tom]

What kind of engine are you working on?

tom