[Edwin]

I'm overhauling my P27 engine (poly)
Is is a 260 cu.in. V8 Plymouth (same block as the 241 and 270 hemi engine).
After 4 years, I final got my good crack free crankshaft.
Now everything is back from the shop and I want to start assembling it.
I have two odd tings discovered:
1) I think there is a part in the oil system missing (wasn't there when I took it apart, got that listed very good).
How do I know, it is listed in the parts list book as item:
10-22-42 Ball oil check valve #147 490
10-22-42 body oil check valve #1535 905
10-22-43 seal oil check valve body #1329 971
This part is located between/in the rear main bearing cap of the crankshaft.
When the oil leaves the oil pump it will meet these parts in the rear main bearings before it enters the oil channels in the engine.
Does somebody know what it does? Is this bad if it is missing and should I try to get these parts?
I think it is there to get oil pressure build up before if leaves the oil pump.

2) In the rear main bearing there is a bush. Inside this bush the drive shaft from the oil pump meets the shaft that is driven by the camshaft gear. When I measured it I saw a big clearance. The shaft diameter is 12.32 mm (0.48504 inch) and the bush inside is 13.12 mm (0.51654 inch) that is 0.8 mm (0.0315 inch) clearance. Is this right? What should this clearance be?
Also the bush is made of steel. Is it better to make it out of brass (I have to make a new one because is is badly damaged at one side)

Hope you can help

[Centerline]

I believe what you are talking about is the oil check valve. It's located in the main oil supply hole near the rear main cap. Go to my web site HotRodsAndHemis and open up the "Rebuilding a Hemi" link on the left side of the page and you will see where this ball check valve is and how to remove and replace it.

For my money I would not replace it with a stock unit. I would get a new bypass unit from HotHeads or one of the other Hemi suppliers, especially if you are using a modern oil filter setup. The stock unit will allow unfiltered oil to reach the bearings if the oil filter becomes clogged, not something you really want to happen. The best thing you can do is convert to a spin on modern oil filter and use the bypass plug. That way you won't have a hard time finding replacement filters and you won't have any unfiltered oil reaching the bearings.

[Edwin]

I did see your website minutes after my mail.
It is the oil check valve that I'm missing.
I do have a kind of cartridge for oil filter. I do not know if it is an easy one to find. I live in The Netherlands. MOPAR is rare over here. GM is common.
If I contact Hotheads, do they know what I need to convert to a bypass unit from for a modern oil filter setup. What else do I have to change for this?


The site also answers the second question. The dowel over the oil pump and intermediate shaft, does it have a bearing function or is it just a tube made of steel. I saw you did get one from Hotheads. I can make one of my own if I know the clearance between dowel and shaft.

My tool shop had to remove the alignment pins in the block that align the heads in the block. I will try to make them myself if I cannot find them any were. Some specs on diameter could help. The diameter for that part of the pin that goes into the head is gone. For the block it is still good to measure.

[Centerline]

Contact Bob Walker at HotHeads. He will have everything you need to convert your oil filter to a modern spin on filter along with the oil bypass valve. I believe he can also help you with the alignment pins for the heads.

The dowel you're talking about serves to align the rear main cap and does not have a bearing function.

You will have your choice of adapters for the oil filter so you can choose the one that fits best in your application (vertical, horizontal etc.) If you can't make the dowel for the rear main I think it's only a dollar or two from HotHeads.

Good luck with your rebuild.

[Edwin]

At first, my thanks for you good site about the hemi. It is great to see so much additional tips and tricks.
You did advice me on where to get a camshaft, got a standard camshaft from Chris Nielson. Excellent quality.
I got my crank from Hemibob2 (very reliable guy, willing to look and search) expencive but very good in old hemi stuff.

I looked at Hotheads site and saw that the oil filter are screw-on modern types. I've read on several forums that you can use the original oil filter housing with a fill-in oil filter cartridge. A filter placed inside the original housing. This way the looks will be original.
Do you know if that can be combined with the bypass valve from Hotheads and have the same good filtering?

I didn't find the dowel on there site but a lot of stuff I could use, like the balancer. I saw tree kinds of balancers. You used the fluidampr type. I keep my engine stock and use the car for normal use only, but want to prevent cracks in the crank. Any suggestions on the type of balancer I need?

I read about the improved hi volume oil pump. Why is that, is the original one not good enough?

Can you answer one more thing, I did use a complete overhaul kit from Egge. For the intake valves there is a valve stem seal. The one I got from Egge is a tiny ring, sitting under the retainer. The one I saw at Hothemi is a "umbrella" type. Is there a difference and why is this seal there?