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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2012, 09:54 PM
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Chevy used two different cam retainers:

Early cam retainer plate (3.620" c/c) GMPP p/n 10088128
Late (most common) cam retainer plate (3.294" c/c) GMPP p/n 10168501

Summit sells both, ~ $12/ea.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2012, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Chevy used two different cam retainers:

Early cam retainer plate (3.620" c/c) GMPP p/n 10088128
Late (most common) cam retainer plate (3.294" c/c) GMPP p/n 10168501

Summit sells both, ~ $12/ea.
Thanks for the post! I measured from inside to inside of bolts and it was around 3.5" so im assuming my block is the 3.620". The block was from a 91 k2500. Does anyone know what thread and length bolts I need for the cam locking plate (thrust plate)... Should they be a special grade? I imagine there isn't a lot of force but I want to make sure its put together right the first time. Thanks again everyone!!! Im getting very excited to get it back together and running.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2012, 02:15 PM
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This should work right? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G6601/

Every other timing chain for a factory roller cam seemed to be closer to $80-100 im confused as to if this is the only one I could really find.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2012, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
This should work right? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G6601/

Every other timing chain for a factory roller cam seemed to be closer to $80-100 im confused as to if this is the only one I could really find.
This fits the 85-95 GEN I roller block, not the 96 to 2002 GEN I L31 block. You've got to be carful here, cost is secondary to correct fitment.

Often these double row rollers hit the timing cover and or thrust plate mounting bolts. For cover interference keep an extra timing cover gasket to stack the cover out if it rubs, make sure you check this before installing the motor, it's a real pain to fix once in the chassis.

Bolts for the thrust plate should be a pan head to provide gear clearance if you're not using the factory bolts. Ordinary hex heads frequently run into the inside of the cam gear requiring either a pan head replacement or grinding a clearance into the bolt heads or the gear. Typically pan heads will use an Allen, Phillips, or Torx drive.

Bogie
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2012, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
This fits the 85-95 GEN I roller block, not the 96 to 2002 GEN I L31 block. You've got to be carful here, cost is secondary to correct fitment.

Often these double row rollers hit the timing cover and or thrust plate mounting bolts. For cover interference keep an extra timing cover gasket to stack the cover out if it rubs, make sure you check this before installing the motor, it's a real pain to fix once in the chassis.

Bolts for the thrust plate should be a pan head to provide gear clearance if you're not using the factory bolts. Ordinary hex heads frequently run into the inside of the cam gear requiring either a pan head replacement or grinding a clearance into the bolt heads or the gear. Typically pan heads will use an Allen, Phillips, or Torx drive.

Bogie

Awesome thank bogie! So if I were rebuilding a vortec block this would not work but because I am rebuilding a block from between 85-95 this timing chain will work.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2012, 07:35 PM
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oh right one last thing... do I need to get a different distributor gear? I thought I read somewhere that roller cams required it but don't remember 100%.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2012, 10:26 PM
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This is the required timing set for the L31 Vortec block:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CL...n/?prefilter=0
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2012, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
oh right one last thing... do I need to get a different distributor gear? I thought I read somewhere that roller cams required it but don't remember 100%.
GM uses a Melonized gear. The Melonizing process is a special type surface hardening on steel. If my crappy memory serves its like but not Nitriding, it's done in a cyanide salt bath and actually creates a outside hard but porous layer that retains oil with a hard impermeable layer below. All this a few 10 thousands thick. This provides a surface that is long term compatible with steel distributor/oil pump drive gear on the cam without undo wear to either gear.

The other choice is a brass/bronze gear or a carbon composite. Both of these are sacrificial when used against a cast iron of steel cam, the thought being that its cheaper and less difficult to replace the distributor's gear than it is camshafts.

All of these gears are a bit pricey usually somewhere around 50 bucks. I've been using the Melonized gear for street applications and some race uses for quite a number of years now without any problems.

Bogie
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2012, 02:27 PM
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So I ordered cam retainer plate NAL-10088128 and got it today. I went to go line it up to make sure it was the correct one... and it was about 1/4 - 3/8" too short to get the bolt holes to line it up.... any ideas? block is out of a '91 K2500 and was originally flat tappet. I attached a pic... I also noticed the front cam bearing looks like it may have been starved of oil or something?? I noticed the two soft plugs to the top right and left of the cam weren't in all the way so not sure if it may have been leaking or not...
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2012, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
So I ordered cam retainer plate NAL-10088128 and got it today. I went to go line it up to make sure it was the correct one... and it was about 1/4 - 3/8" too short to get the bolt holes to line it up.... any ideas? block is out of a '91 K2500 and was originally flat tappet. I attached a pic... I also noticed the front cam bearing looks like it may have been starved of oil or something?? I noticed the two soft plugs to the top right and left of the cam weren't in all the way so not sure if it may have been leaking or not...
Cheby 350 uses two different length plates 3.9 or 4.23 inches.

Bogie
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2012, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
Cheby 350 uses two different length plates 3.9 or 4.23 inches.

Bogie
This might sound like a stupid question but is that from center of one bolt to the other?.... because mine isnt close to that.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2012, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
This might sound like a stupid question but is that from center of one bolt to the other?.... because mine isnt close to that.
Center to center, so what is the center to center on the block? And what is the center to center on the thrust plate you have?

Bogie
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2012, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
Center to center, so what is the center to center on the block? And what is the center to center on the thrust plate you have?

Bogie
The plate is 3" center to center and the label says 3.620".... block is a little more ill run out and measure it.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2012, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
The plate is 3" center to center and the label says 3.620".... block is a little more ill run out and measure it.
I gotta blow off here to get some old fart stuff done, I'll pick up again in the morning.

Bogie
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2012, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbogie
I gotta blow off here to get some old fart stuff done, I'll pick up again in the morning.

Bogie

k thx. the block is 3 5/16".. so about 1/4 to 3/8.
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