Hot Rod Forum banner

Help Please! Want wet glass look on clear!

16K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  cyclopsblown34 
#1 ·
So, is that the reason why my clear gets dull? I need to give the solvents time? What if the clear coat says 15 minutes flash time? Is 30 minutes really good for each flash? Also If I could get your help with the flash time for Base, clear coats and also what's the shooting PSI for Base and Clear Coat? I really appreciate all the info you guys are giving me. Thank You!

Just to let you know that I'm gonna shoot a car this Thursday and it's gonna be black. Please help with all the info you could give me. What's the best way to shoot this car to make it have the wet glass look, especially with black and what's the shooting distance to not get as much orange peels or runs? :)
 
#4 ·
I generally wait an hour between clear coats. Turn of the fans and let it outgas each time. After 4 coats and a 24-hour wait time I sand out the dirt and set the item ( entire car or just a panel) out in the sun for a few hours to drive out any remaining solvent. Then shoot three more coats of clear( 1 hour between coats). After 24 hours sand out any dirt then cut and polish. I've been using SPI Universal Clear or Glasurit 1:1 HS clear. Both look like glass but the SPI is way less expensive plus Barry is a good guy to talk to.

What spray gun are you using? That makes a big difference.

The pro's on the Forum may have better ideas..

regards

Ron
 
#5 ·
gto_ron said:
I generally wait an hour between clear coats. Turn of the fans and let it outgas each time. After 4 coats and a 24-hour wait time I sand out the dirt and set the item ( entire car or just a panel) out in the sun for a few hours to drive out any remaining solvent. Then shoot three more coats of clear( 1 hour between coats). After 24 hours sand out any dirt then cut and polish. I've been using SPI Universal Clear or Glasurit 1:1 HS clear. Both look like glass but the SPI is way less expensive plus Barry is a good guy to talk to.

What spray gun are you using? That makes a big difference.

The pro's on the Forum may have better ideas..

regards

Ron

You apply 7 coats of clear ? Is that normal ? How many coats of base do you use ?

I'm no painter but, I've never heard of anyone using that much clear.

THANKS !!


454 RATTLER
 
#6 ·
I have used that much clear... but only when I am burying paint graphics, so I can sand them flat.

The rule of thumb I have seen is that two coats is a minimum... but if you plan to sand and buff (which will make it "glassier") you need three or more.

For a one color repaint, I use 3-5 coats, depending on how straight the body is. That gives me enough paint film to sand some areas a little flatter.

I also allow one hour between coats. That is with the R-M Diamont DC92 clear. Using that clear I've never had a problem from excessive coats.
 
#8 ·
Everybody WANTS the wet glass look but the truth is you probably wont get it until you sand and buffIts takes experiance and an understanding of the materials...First off if you want that look forget using Nason clear no one should ever do all that work spraying extra coats of clear and then sanding and buffing with a low quality clear that'll never hold up...If you cant get the glass right out of the gun then go with a good clear and donyt waste your time....
I'm guessing your painting in a shop and not a booth so heres what I found works every time.......spray two coats and let dry 24 hrs then sand with 600 DA to remove trash and texture (no need to untape the car) prep and tack including the masking paper,apply two more coats.This will get you the most trash free job possible.If you apply more than two coats at a time You'll discover a new problem called "the urathane wave" even with the best of clears...14 coats of clear = 7 days minimum to apply but most likely longer .Theres a lot to know if your spraying that much clear ...For your average car two good wet coats sand and buff is plenty and any more than 4 is just a waste of time and money for someone thats learning.....
 
#9 ·
if I'm using the cheaper grade clear...Nason and whatnot, I don't allow more than 20 minutes from start of one coat to the start of the next, it seems to help me avoid the dry edge where the two coats "meet". I like SPI Universal because I can allow the hour between coats and no dry edges. I also just learned I've been spraying with my pattern too wide, I tightened up my pattern to eight inches at eight inches from the panel, way better results even with cheap clears..
 
#10 ·
corner lights are important so you can see your clear pattern. learn to watch the pattern and adjust distance and overlap as you go . i've noticed as i get older my gun hand aint as steady as it use to be . :) the iwata was hard to get use to. 8 inch pattern at 4-6 inches .

but if your looking to get glass from a gun go to work at macco for a year. you'll get more gun experience in a month than in a year anywhere else.

you dont have to be a killer painter but you have to be a bad *** buffer ................. :D
 
#16 ·
shine said:
sorry cowboy but i don't do average paint jobs and have never met anyone who wanted an average job on their hotrod. this site is about hotrods . it is not about cheap car lot work .
Who said anything about cheap carlot work? OH ,you did when you compared the normal everyday bodyshop and their work to car lot work....its also not about trailer queens that never see any weather either....You ever meet anyone that didnt have 1,000 but wanted a nice paint job enough to do everything themselves?They're called hotrodders...
Actually the site is ALL about hotrodd'ERS and helping them do thier own work with better results...Like I said you need to get out more ,not only is two coats plenty .its the industry standard and just getting a job comparable to a body shop job standard is hard enough for the average DIYer...since you dont do average work I was wondering how you know so much about Nason Clear and how long it lasts ,mabee your doing something wrong... I got some on my daily driver (2 coats) thats 9yrs old and still looks good ,matter of fact you cant tell the nason from the original.....Now you drive your 10=14 coat of clear job everyday ungaraged and let us know "next year" how its holding up. LOL, you'll need a much smaller hat next year...
 
#17 ·
i have more high end jobs on the road today than you have ever done mike. several are daily driven and unlike you i can offer the proof. your boast about all you've done but to this day you are all talk. you have never posted any proof of all you claim to have done so i do not believe anything you say. sorry but you cant build a reputation with a keyboard.
just because i choose not to do collision work does not mean i have never been involved with it. i do not need to use a cheap second line paint to know what it is and your industry standard has nothing to do with custom work. i doubt anyone wants to spend years getting their hotrod ready for a average paint job.
 
#18 ·
I myself feel mil thickness is more important than coats. That's something you only learn over a period of time and a lot of paint jobs. No two painters will take a gun and mix their own paint and go around a car x amount of times and end up with the same amount of paint on the car. Each painter has to kind of learn how much paint or clear it take to get what they want on each job and put on that much material. I know in my own case I put down different mils depending on if its a show car, daily driver or just a cheap make it shine for as little as possible job.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top