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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2010, 04:51 PM
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1.21 giga-watts???!!!!
 
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Again, if you're so happy why post about plug color? This stuff reminds me of MuscleCarGal. I am out. Happy motoring.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2010, 04:59 PM
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Too many variables. Some carbs will hardly idle but run great WOT. Trying to comment on plug color after idling is pointless in that case. Your plugs look fine for a street engine. You should invest in a doctors otoscope if you want to observe the fire ring at the base of the porcelain. They are readily available and cost about $100.

If the engine likes 40 and there is no signs of detonation on the plugs, dont touch it. Vacuum advance is for grocery getters, not performance engines.
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:36 PM
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With a small block chevy the main thing is to keep an eye on your plugs in the #7 and #8 cylinders.These are the cylinders that are most prone to lean A/F Ratios and detonation.
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Old 07-27-2010, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmsport

Vacuum advance is for grocery getters, not performance engines.
Is that ever interesting. I read that quite a bit through the net so would encourage those just starting into it not to think they must stick to one set of "inside the box" type rules
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2010, 03:18 PM
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1.21 giga-watts???!!!!
 
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And I would recommend that most do NOT follow your timing rules as they will detonate their internal engine components to pieces. Admit it, you're MuscleCarGirl posting under a different name.

Is this super engine of yours that you don't seem to know anything about for street or strip? By the way, if you had somebody build your engine for you, your posts on how to do things are less than credible in my mind.
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Old 07-27-2010, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by lmsport


Vacuum advance is for grocery getters, not performance engines.

Maybe you'd best stick to the first one
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2010, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cool rockin daddy
By the way, if you had somebody build your engine for you, your posts on how to do things are less than credible in my mind.
Most all people did have someone build the base engine. I'm of the mind that most dont buy shop equipment for one block. As for the girl thing. You gotta quit following me and gotta quit calling me girl. People will start to wonder.

BTW, how did cars ever run before we used vac adv?
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2010, 04:01 PM
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arg... what is it with plug reading posts on here... this it he first one where someone actually gave a sensible answer: If you did anything besides a WOT pass, shut it down immediately and pull the plugs they're not really telling you much of anything, maybe that you're not burning oil in that cylinder, but again, not much more than that...

Running well with big, locked out timing and no vacuum advance? OK, so? so you have a combination that makes relatively low dynamic compression, you've got an inefficient, slow burn going on and you don't care about midrange cruise... AND what's your point? A little vacuum advance will give you better MPG, more compression, less valve timing, a better chamber shape... and you'll need less static timing.
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Old 07-27-2010, 04:50 PM
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Problem is, silverback, sooper doesn't know what his combo is. Because one guy says vacuum advance is for grocery getters, him "combo" is right. Vacuum advance is for anybody running their car on the street for the majority of the time because of the advantages you listed in your post.

sooper, you must be what, all of 19? Your knowledge base is one of somebody that young. Your posting style is also that of kid. Most people have the MACHINING of their block done and they assemble the engines themselves. It sounds like you did none of that but put a pile of money on the counter of the engine builder and waited for him to call you and tell you to pick up your engine. As such, you have NO business posting anything on here about engine building or tuning. Who tuned your engine for you? The builder? I sure as hell don't think you did it. You obviously don't know what vacuum advance is and what it is for. Others have been called out as being dangerous to noobs who might read the erroneous things they post, try it, and break parts. You are in the same category. Just stop.

As far as your posts go, Silverback said it best. SO WHAT?
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Old 07-27-2010, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverback
A little vacuum advance will give you better MPG, more compression, less valve timing, a better chamber shape... and you'll need less static timing.
Better chamber shape? That would be an impressive vacuum solenoid.
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:50 PM
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OK, you caught me, crappy punctuation, how about something like:

A little vacuum advance will give you better MPG. With more compression, less valve timing, a better chamber shape... and you'll need less static timing.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2010, 08:50 AM
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The simple answer is- there IS no simple answer, period.

There are enough different combinations of parts, conditions, fuel quality and variation, et cetera, ad infinitum, until there is no one "right" way.

What you would hope to do, is a series of tests using a track to get the incremental times from that will be a window into what's occurring at engine level. This would be a baseline for total timing as well as the rate the advance came in and at what point the advance began. These test runs would use much the same procedure as would be used during a "lash loop" test, the differences being in the timing being changed and not the lash.

Then, w/these values known, the idea would be to then see how much initial timing the engine can use, both w/ported and manifold vacuum advance. Trying each in a back-to-back test will tell a lot.

Bottom line, if you tried vacuum advance (ported or manifold) and it runs better w/o it, then simply don't use it.

The more vacuum a cam allows the engine to make at idle will give a good indication as to whether the added vacuum advance from manifold vac. is needed, or wanted. A high vacuum idle will often be just fine w/either vacuum source- some additional initial timing may be needed when using ported vacuum, but that's usually not a problem unless the engine is sluggish to start when hot.

The less vacuum, or the more overlap increases the need for more initial timing- either from manifold vacuum sourced vacuum advance or a lot more initial- the most "added initial" being locked-out timing set to the max from idle on up.

But this does tend to take away from the potential for better economy, and really the timing can be said to be correct only at WOT and a compromise everywhere else, especially light throttle cruise.

There does come a point, however, that the amount of vacuum and/or mechanical advance that can be employed diminishes to the point that it's not needed- like if the initial has to be so high due to overlap that you'd only be able to use a small amount or no mechanical advance.

But there's not a lot of cases where a streetable engine cannot use some form of advance curve, IMHO.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2010, 03:47 PM
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Last edited by cobalt327; 07-29-2010 at 04:23 PM. Reason: PM'ed instead.
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