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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2009, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
Chip resistance has more to do with your clear coat than anything else. Some clears cure as hard as concrete and some almost remain pliable.

Vince
Beg to differ, sir, chip resistance is affected by a myriad of factors (previous film thickness being a biggie), but as has been mentioned, base coat is rightly seen as the weak link in our modern systems. Now, I will grant you that I have seen chips where the clear has come off, leaving the base, but that has been the exception, most often seen on OEM paint.

If you have the opportunity, examine some jobs that have been repaired and refinished, then exposed to stone chipping. On plastic bumpers in particular, what I have most often seen is the primer showing just in the area of the strike. This indicates that either the base or primer has essentially shattered from impact, causing delamination. Two things cause this to be a severe problem in my estimation, 1) Using primer that sands and powders easily (like PPG's NCP271, a VERY popular primer) but is not rated for plastic (not flexible), or 2) Using base coat that has NOT been made more flexible by the addition of a small amount of activator.

Maybe I am picking on PPG a little, not because it is bad material, but when guys take the path of least resistance with this popular line (using the easiest sanding primer, not paying extra to put hardener in the base) the long-term results can be disappointing. Using K36 and activated base coat vastly improves the quality of a job done with PPG.

Of course one might say that plastic bumpers represent a special case, but as far as I can tell, using the techniques that produce maximum chip resistance on a soft front end part have improved the toughness of my paint jobs overall.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2012, 08:43 AM
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PPG Deltron 2000 is basically like Dupont Chromobase. There is very little difference other than color matching of which Dupont has vindicator while PPG only generally has color decks. They are probably 2 of the most popular paint systems in the U.S.

As for the mixing, Deltron 2000 requires a reducer. Most reducers will do since it evaporates after its sprayed onto the vehicle. Omni reducer is fine although a PPG tech will tell you its not to sell you PPG reducer but on the many paint jobs i've done Omni reducer works fine. The only occasion you might want to use PPG reducer over Omni is with metallics since i've heard they bunch more with Omni but it hasn't been much of a problem for me. Deltron 2000 also recommends a basecoat hardener but be forewarned it hardens the leftover basecoat so you might want to only use it in the mixes you will spray. I know some people who don't use the hardener and get away with it but i've found its good to use on front bumpers and hoods since it helps against chipping more.

I've also found that any clearcoat is fine to use as long as you trust it. I've never had a basecoat reaction from clearcoat and i've sprayed many a clears on top of PPG or Dupont bases. Again this isn't what a tech will tell you but from practical experience using these products. If you want to do everything a PPG or Dupont tech will tell you be prepared to spend a lot for over priced products. I've found that prep means a lot more than quality of product you use generally speaking. Nason or even Omni clears are fine to use although they do have some downsides like slower dry times and do not harden as quickly as say Duponts or PPG's main clears. The big thing with major distributor clears right now is fast dry times to buffable state and you will pay quite a bit more for it.
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