Help preparing body for winter - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2006, 10:46 AM
hot_rod_kid's Avatar
axes wayy too many questions
 

Last journal entry: Car show Btt50's 2012
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Minnesota, St. Paul
Age: 25
Posts: 300
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Help preparing body for winter

The winter is coming, I can feel it in the air. But I'm nowhere near prepared to store the car outside like it needs to be. As of now I have the entire roof down to bare metal, most of the doors, and most of the quarter panels down to bare metal as well. My question is are there any easy, temporary ways to cover the metal to prevent any further rusting?

I'm also thinking about primer. I've started priming the doors but realized halfway that just a couple coats of primer won't suffice the long Minnesota winters and the chances of moisture leaking throught is pretty high. I've read about sealers and other way's to prep the surface before primer that are strong, but they are pretty expensive. I guess that's part of body work, but I'm a kid, I'm a very inexperienced body "kid", and it always seems that when I pay alot of money for something I use more than I need to, and it ends up being worthless. So my question here is what methods, and what product's do you recommend?

Any help is greatly appriciated. Thanks.

Alex

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2006, 12:39 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 6,389
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 2
Thanked 58 Times in 54 Posts
sand any rust that may be there, smooth, get some rattle can primer and flat black paint. then prime and paint anything bare metal.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2006, 08:45 PM
colormecrazy's Avatar
Paintshop Dog
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Keller, Texas
Age: 44
Posts: 406
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Spray-can primer and paint is probably a good cheaper solution. Just remember when you start doing things permanently, you need to take the spray can stuff all off first. You may check with a local paint store for epoxy primer. It may be a little more expensive, but would be permanent. And you're going to want to have a good coat of that stuff on there under your paint anyway.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2006, 08:52 PM
poncho62's Avatar
Out of the Loop Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Streetbeasts links
Last journal entry: at car show
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hanover, Ontario, Canada
Age: 62
Posts: 16,901
Wiki Edits: 5

Thanks: 20
Thanked 274 Times in 219 Posts
Spring for some epoxy primer.............even if you have to brush it on.

You should not be leaving it in bare metal outside. ....even for a day.
__________________
Ontario Rodders

Budget RVs
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2006, 08:57 PM
Rambo_The_Dog's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Shop Remodel Progress
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 736
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by hot_rod_kid
The winter is coming, I can feel it in the air. But I'm nowhere near prepared to store the car outside like it needs to be. As of now I have the entire roof down to bare metal, most of the doors, and most of the quarter panels down to bare metal as well. My question is are there any easy, temporary ways to cover the metal to prevent any further rusting?

I'm also thinking about primer. I've started priming the doors but realized halfway that just a couple coats of primer won't suffice the long Minnesota winters and the chances of moisture leaking throught is pretty high. I've read about sealers and other way's to prep the surface before primer that are strong, but they are pretty expensive. I guess that's part of body work, but I'm a kid, I'm a very inexperienced body "kid", and it always seems that when I pay alot of money for something I use more than I need to, and it ends up being worthless. So my question here is what methods, and what product's do you recommend?

Any help is greatly appriciated. Thanks.

Alex
Cheap bomb can primers or paint will not protect the metal from moisture absorbtion will start rusting again - it will help but it won't protect it.

Have you gotten any quotes for a shop to spray a decent sealer on it? What you need is an etch/expoy primer or something like a POR15 or Eastwood Tools Rust Encapsulator (you can brush paint either of these and it flows out nicely...) to protect the metal for the winter.

Sure this stuff can get expensive..but what has it cost you in time and materials already? you surely don't want to have to strip the panels again because of rust...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2006, 03:25 AM
adtkart@aol.com
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 3,220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I would definately go with getting some epoxy on it. Like was said, even brushing it on would work. You'll need to sand it after that long, before doing anything else, but don't have to take it all off. Anything else that you put on, will have to come back off later. I definately would not put one of those products like Por15 or Eastwoods stuff on the exteior of the car. They will still have to come back off to do any proper repair and refinishing. If that POR15 is as tough as people say it is, you'll really be in for some work. From what I have read on it, you can't paint over it without additional products of theirs put on it right away either.

Aaron
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2006, 07:46 AM
Rambo_The_Dog's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Shop Remodel Progress
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 736
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by adtkart
I would definately go with getting some epoxy on it. Like was said, even brushing it on would work. You'll need to sand it after that long, before doing anything else, but don't have to take it all off. Anything else that you put on, will have to come back off later. I definately would not put one of those products like Por15 or Eastwoods stuff on the exteior of the car. They will still have to come back off to do any proper repair and refinishing. If that POR15 is as tough as people say it is, you'll really be in for some work. From what I have read on it, you can't paint over it without additional products of theirs put on it right away either.

Aaron
Expoy primers are the best way to go unless you don't have entirely clean bare metal. If there is any rust staining pits or rust residue the POR15 or Eastwood would be better fit for protection IMO.

POR15 is a bit more difficult to work with, doesn't have UV protection either and is a bit more finicky about top coats - I don't use it becaus of this but I know people who swear by it.

The Eastwood stuff can be reduced with good grade lacquer thinner up to 20%, HAS UV protection and can be topcoated with nearly any automotive paint.

Any materials used will need to be lightly scuffed up before resuming work...its the quality of the product that will determine the amount of scuffing needed.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2006, 10:56 AM
hot_rod_kid's Avatar
axes wayy too many questions
 

Last journal entry: Car show Btt50's 2012
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Minnesota, St. Paul
Age: 25
Posts: 300
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I like the sound of this Eastwood stuff, so I might go that direction. One more question, how does this stuff react to Bondo? I had to fill some rust pits and used Bondo spot putty. I've heard there are some products out there that don't get along with Bondo and will cause a bad reaction.

Thanks.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2006, 11:00 AM
adtkart@aol.com
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 3,220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If the spot putty that you used is the single part stuff in the tube, nothing is going to be happy with it. The stuff will come back to haunt you later.

Aaron
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2006, 02:35 PM
Rambo_The_Dog's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Shop Remodel Progress
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 736
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by hot_rod_kid
I like the sound of this Eastwood stuff, so I might go that direction. One more question, how does this stuff react to Bondo? I had to fill some rust pits and used Bondo spot putty. I've heard there are some products out there that don't get along with Bondo and will cause a bad reaction.

Thanks.
See - I would have sprayed epoxy or Eastwood primer first...then done any filler work afterwards

Bondo is pourous - and - if its applied over bare metal and not covered pretty quickly moisture can get and will seep through and start rusting the metal out again.

There are issues with putting polyester body filler or primers over some acid/etch primers but I'd need to do some further digging to know which ones - anyone else know the etch primers a little better and what you can or can't do with them?

This is what I did with my 49 - sandblasted the metal, did any basic rust repairs and lead work, prepped with 80grit DA, etched the metal with PPG metal etch, shot 2 medium coats of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator to protect the panels.

I still need to do the finish body work so when I'm ready I'll scuff the eastwood with 180 and then use a polyester fill primer (probably k36 ppg if I remember the number correctly) - do the finish body work and then block and primer to 400 grit to apply a base sealer and then paint.

Sadly the same issues driving gas prices have made these materials more expensive as well. Eastwood Rust Encapsulator is 110.00 a gallon (no hardner needed) - I'm sure POR15 is similar and the epoxy primers are probably even more since you have to buy hardner.

The only way you could get away with cheaper primer is to have somewhere inside to store it...then you'd still have to re-strip the panels again before applying the good stuff.

"A final paint job is only as good as what's underneath of it..."
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2006, 04:02 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 6,389
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 2
Thanked 58 Times in 54 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by adtkart
If the spot putty that you used is the single part stuff in the tube, nothing is going to be happy with it. The stuff will come back to haunt you later.

Aaron
yeah, all the Bondo spot putty is single part Laquer. I used the Napa brand of the same thing on my '51 Chevy, but I'm using Accrylic based primer/ paint so it will work for me. it will bleed thru anything eurethane base, which is 90% of the BC/CC systems.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2006, 04:17 PM
adtkart@aol.com
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 3,220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I just checked the prices on SPI epoxy. It is a 2 part system, mixed 1to1, giving 2 gallons of epoxy for about $130. You can also get it in quarts, but it is considerably more that way. So for just a little more than the price of that Eastwood stuff, which according to the sales paper I have is about $110/gallon you have 2 gallons, which should be more than enough for the average car. If you don't have the capability to spray the epoxy, it can be applied with a roller or brush. That would give you the best base for your repairs. It would also be compatable with any type of top coat that you decided to use later.

Aaron
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
700R4 Why are the TCI manual valve body instructions so lousy? Bayley Transmission - Rearend 24 02-16-2009 12:49 PM
Low buck body work procedure Ricky Rocket Body - Exterior 5 06-02-2006 07:53 AM
How to on Body Off Build? joeford Hotrodding Basics 3 05-09-2006 07:29 PM
Body off question... joeford Hotrodding Basics 1 05-07-2006 07:26 PM
Model A body dimensions Help! NZ30Roadster Body - Exterior 3 02-19-2005 06:52 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.