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Old 06-27-2004, 02:23 AM
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Help with product selection (long)

Hi

I have been lurking here for a week or so and decided to try to paint my car. My first "practice" attempt will be on my work car. The paint is rough and at this point spray cans would make it look better, so I can't make it worse. If it turns out alright I will try my motorcycle next.

I bought 2 of the paint guns from Harbor Freight, one for primer one for paint, as recommended in an old post I found on here. I have the car mostly sanded to bare metal and will have that finished in the next day or two. I went to the local paint store and told the guy I didn't really know what I was getting into, but that I wanted to go with cheap stuff until I had some more experience. I picked one of the cheap colors (blue) of thier cheapest paint and basically the guy at the store loaded my cart up with that I would need. I was wondering if someone would take a minute and see if what I got sounds like the right stuff, and if it will all work together. Remember I wanted it cheap, this will be more of a technique and skills building exercise for than anything else.

-Western Automotive Finishes (Sherwin Willams) Hi-Glo W-564 Synthetic Enamel

-5-Star Synthetic Enamel Hardener 5132 (the paint can says use this hardener.)

-5-Star Acrylic Enamel Reducer 5093

-5-Star Maximum 2K grey Acrylic Urathane Primer Surfacer 5422 (quote on can "great under all acrylic urathane finishes.")

-5-Star Maximum 2k (primer) activator 5406

So the paint is Synthetic Enamel, but the reducer he gave me says "acrylic enamel reducer." Is this correct? Also, the primer is "great with acrylic urathane finishes," how about synthetic enamel finishes? I wasn't really in a position to second-guess the guy at the store, I just figured that when I got home I would check the company website for help, but the website isn't very helpful as far as I can see (www.sherwin-automotive.com) I have my reciept and can take stuff back if anything is wrong. Also, the guy at the store gave me a pamphlet that he said would be helpful, but it is for PPG Delstar or something like that, totally different brand?

Anyway, I was just wondering if that primer and reducer would work with the paint. Thanks for taking the time to read this, and thanks in advance for any help. Sorry such a long first post.
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Old 06-27-2004, 03:41 AM
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I don't see any etch primer in your list, since you said you sanded to bare metal I would advice using an etch primer first then a regular primer over that
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Old 06-27-2004, 06:10 PM
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Thank you very much for your suggestion roadmouse, I will look into that.

Anyone know about the reducer and primer that I have? Should I return it, or will it work?

Thanks again.
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Old 06-27-2004, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by PatJ
Thank you very much for your suggestion roadmouse, I will look into that.

Anyone know about the reducer and primer that I have? Should I return it, or will it work?

Thanks again.
Pat, the primer will be fine and the reducer will work.
But how in H--- did you end up with the paint?
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Old 06-28-2004, 11:21 AM
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BarryK, I'm not sure I read it here but is there any truth to the following or is it just a generalization? : It is easier to work with more expensive/higher quality products because they are more forgiving and the cheaper stuff is harder to work with. If so would a beginer like PatJ (and myself) be better off with a product line like say PPG instead? I can understand that it's only a work truck but your gearhead buddies will notice and break your b@lls if it looks like hell
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Old 06-28-2004, 11:38 AM
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I think buying cheap is a good way to learn! That way if you shoot the truck and see where you could now do better you go buy another gallon. But doing a torch red with ppg at $400+++
per gallon you really have to think twice about buy a second gallon.
I would have thought the jobber would have sold you acrylic enamel instead for easy corrections and spraying.
If this is a factory pack color and cost is not much more you may go trade it out.
The alkyds can cause real problems when trying to redo something be it the next day or 3 years down the road.
These people using it for Blitz Black will find out if they ever try to fix a dent one day and the bodyfiller lifts the edge or the primer keeps lifting the old or they re-coat it with the same stuff and it lifts or wrinkles. There will be a lot of stripping going on.

If you do trade it out just buy the cheapest Acrylic enamel you can get with activator.
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