Help?Redid my Mustang Fastback roof (with filler). This is where I always get stuck! - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2011, 10:02 PM
put up or shut up
 

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great advice. If you don't intend on stripping and are ready for primer but are open to spend a tad more time to make it that much better than something sharp will do the deed. I have a pick hammer with a sharpened tip just for that. I try not to use it but I'm not a master metal guy so once and a while I find something poking up and if I hit it down with something sharp it brings down just that area and nothing around it so you don't have to fill a lot and it won't crack your filler. Then fill and sand with 80 then 180. If you plan on spot filling those areas then top coat again hit the spots with 40 then jam in your skim coat THEN use 80 to 180. Even if you choose not to skim the whole thing again you'll save yourself a lot of time and grief just doing those few spots now. I learned the hard way early on that those poly primers are great but blocking is 100x easier if you do the best you can, cause then you can block most of it off and get it ultra flat.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2011, 10:42 PM
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So you guys definitely recommend tapping them down? Seriously, I'm really afraid of the oil canning coming back.

What happens if I don't tap them down, and prime as is... Am I going to have a slightly larger roof made of bondo blow off on the highway? because that's one of my main concerns.

So if I were to tap them down, and build up those spots.. Just the sharp end of a picking hammer? Sharpen it you say? What if I puncture the metal? Egads I'm worrying myself.

Last edited by JohnnyK81; 07-26-2011 at 11:10 PM.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2011, 11:39 PM
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point on positive
 
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The reason to use a point is it takes some of the metal into itself at the same time...kinda drawing it in while useing it up and shrinking it as well..the highs are "extra" metal that needs to be directed where to go
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