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Old 05-13-2010, 12:52 PM
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help removing rounded off damper bolt?

I was going to sell my trans am, but the highest offer ive gotten so far was to trade for a really old dodge ram with lots of rust and a bad engine and transmission.. i politely said no. Im not sure why i cant get 6k for my car, but i guess ill just have to keep it for now. I traded a truck worth 8k for the car then i put 5k in it within the last few months, sold almost everything i own to fix the cars issues, but still is running like crap and i cant figure it out. Because of this I lost my job because i couldnt make it work. So now i own a car that isnt reliable, some clothes, and a laptop. Now to the point... Im extremely broke and have $2 to do till the first of next month, lovely eh? I need to adjust the valves on the car, make sure TDC is right, and stop the carb leak.. again. So i need to turn the engine over by hand. Even with all plugs removed, the bolt will hold the socket barely at all so the engine wont turn. I tried doing the valves by ear and i just cant tell when the clacking stops and they always turn out to be too tight. What is another way i can turn this damn thing over by hand with the bolt rounded off?

Also I would really like to remove the bolt also if at all possible. How can i do this with it being rounded off? IF i can get it off, does the pull sit on the snout of the crankshaft, or will the belt pull the damper up when the bolt comes out? Also will an bolt do for the pully or will i need a $pecial bolt?

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Old 05-13-2010, 01:27 PM
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If its an automatic take off the torque converter dust cover and put a wrench on the converter to flexplate bolts and turn it like that.The balancer is an interference fit to the crank about 1 1/2" the pully is bolted to the balancer so it shouldn't come loose if you get the balancer bolt out and if it does you got bigger problems. There is also a tool you can use to turn the flexplate.
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Old 05-13-2010, 01:33 PM
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I was an auto but i swapped it to a manual... geez i have some horrible luck.
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Old 05-13-2010, 01:40 PM
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Hi,
For the rounded bolt head. Previously in a reply, it was mentioned that there are sockets made that you pound onto the bolt head, & then remove the bolt, I personally have not seen one, but I've never looked for one either, hopefully that poster will reply as to where to get them. As for replacing the bolt with a different one, No

Turning the engine by hand, there is a crow foot type puller
you may be able to rent one at one of the chain stores auto zone or the like, the link is a picture of it
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...pullers&page=2
Good luck,
Rich
PS Where do you live?
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Old 05-13-2010, 01:49 PM
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I live in mississippi. I dont know what to do with this car, its been stressing me out way to much. Ive never been a quitter, but i wish i would have gave up on this car long ago, its cost me alot and no better than when i got it. If I could part it out, i know i could get at least 7k in parts at the very least. Maybe ill be able to have my cousing pick it up and do it here. Who knows? I think ill just get a motorcycle when i get some money and get back on my feet.

Well thanks for the info guys. You all have been a big help with all the questions ive had. Its time i finally give up and get rid of this car. No more money coming out of my pocket, NO NO NO!
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Old 05-13-2010, 02:00 PM
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The thumbnail is an example of the sockets richard stewart 3rd mentioned.

They're pounded onto the head of the bolt (whatever's left of it), then turned CCW. The way the flutes of the socket ID are angled, this makes the socket grip tighter as the bolt's loosened.

Good luck.
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Old 05-13-2010, 02:06 PM
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What are they called?
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Old 05-13-2010, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroker444
What are they called?
"Bolt Extractor".
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Old 05-13-2010, 02:31 PM
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A lot of times (depending on how bad the bolt head is) you don't even need to "pound" them. The helical cut "blades" for lack of a better term will pull it up tight once you start to turn it. The set I have is made by Irwin and they are handy to have around.
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Old 05-17-2010, 09:15 PM
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If you can get one of those bolt extractor tools attached, put the wrench handle on top of something substantial on the left side (frame rail if accessible), tie it down so it won't go flying, put some wood behind the radiator in case it does, disconnect the power to the ignition coil, then bump the starter a couple of times to loosen the bolt.

A large Stillson wrench attached from the top (open end of jaws down), with the handle (or a cheater) UNDERNEATH something on the RIGHT side might also work if you don't have the bolt extractor.
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