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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2010, 05:53 PM
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OK, got up this morning and it was all dry but I decided to sand it a little and re-apply another coat, well actually 2 coats. Here are a couple pics of my finished primered roof
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2010, 05:57 PM
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Do yourself a favor and get some true masking paper, Newspaper tend to let the paint leach through.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2010, 06:17 PM
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GM,I'm a little concerned about how quickly you primed after you used the metal treatment did the directions say that was alright???
some epoxies can be built up ..some cant....the brand I use sands and builds so well you dont need any 2k building primer...
anyways ,it looks a lot better....sanding and repriming was a good idea .
turned out to be a lot of work didnt it??? you ready to be a body man ???
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2010, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
turned out to be a lot of work didnt it???
Yes it was definitely allot of work, I have to give credit to you guys that do body work, it's very tedious and time consuming but also something that I started getting into, but I'm not sure I wanna go threw that again but if I do, I have a good idea of what I will need to do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
GM,I'm a little concerned about how quickly you primed after you used the metal treatment did the directions say that was alright???
Well there were two sets of directions on the back label, one was for rust removal and the other was for metal etching.
FOR RUSTED SURFACES
(To Remove Rust)
1. Remove any oil, grease, & dirt from surface. Remove loose rust with a wire brush.
2. Apply product to affected metal full strength with a paintbrush, spray bottle or pump-up sprayer. Rinse applicator with water after use. Work the solution into rusted areas and allow product to dry overnight to fully neutralize rust.
3. Rinse or wipe surface with a damp cloth to remove any rust residue.
4. Paint treated surface within 48 hours of application to prevent formation of new rust. Two applications may be necessary to treat severe rust.

FOR TREATING METAL FOR PAINTING
(Phosphotizing)
1. Remove any oil, grease, & dirt from surface.
2. Dilute 1 part product with 3 parts water in a plastic container.
3. Apply product with a paintbrush, spray bottle or pump-up sprayer to metal.
4. Thoroughly rinse with water after 15-30 minutes.
5. Paint treated surface within 48 hours of application to prevent formation of new rust

So what I did was applied it full strength and let it set around 2hrs until it was fully dried and rust looked white (my rust wasnt severe as most was all sanded/stripped away), I then washed it all off with a water hose and rag (it dries on hard) and dried with a lint free shop towel.
I hope this was alright as the solution was all the way dried and rust looked whitish with a hint of rust color but that rust color wasnt there before I added the metal prep. I'm hoping this was just the metal prep at work
I hope its OK, theres allot of work that went into it, now I got to tackle the trunk lid and front fenders.
Thanks again
GM
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2010, 07:08 AM
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Time will tell...being that it was in the sun may have speeded it up ,it sounds like it was dry...but if it starts bubbling you'll know what caused it ...
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2010, 07:36 AM
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I never saw any pics of clean metal ?
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2010, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
but if it starts bubbling you'll know what caused it ...
Man, I hope not
but if it does than I will just suck it up and redo it, at least I will only have to remove the epoxy primer this time around.
I still think that it had a rust inhibitor on it as I was trying to sand it, like you said I could see the peaks(^) where my sandpaper was hitting the very hard surface and was unable to reach the valleys(_) below the peaks which is what was basically stopping me from getting it sanded. The big factor here was the razorblades........as soon as I hone one and started scraping, it dug in and started scraping under the peaks one the surface pealing that away, and after a few I would have to flip the razor and use the other side for a while but after doing that a couple of times I would have to hone a NEW blade and do it all again over the hole roof.
I believe that I got all the rust as I put that metal prep on my trunk lid and let it sit over night and the roof looked exactly the same way after sitting a few hours, the sun was behind clouds most of the time it was sitting so it wasnt really in any direct sunlight but it was dry after the 2~ hours of being on there. This stuff is bluish green in color and has the consistency of water and not jell, I think you said that the Ospho was like that also........does that work in a couple of hours or whats its directions of use? I am just curious of to how you use it as I believe these two products may be very similar, just made by different companies.

GM
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2010, 12:16 PM
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I think you have enough sense not to put the epoxy primer on it if the metal was still wet from the rinse. It's been too long for me to remember what I did before I put the epoxy primer on after the phosphoric acid. Mine has been on for years with paint and there was not any lifting or bubbling.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2010, 12:41 PM
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I use the phosphoric acid on stuff like rear ends and other stuff undernieth the car and just paint it with Rustoleum.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2010, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8&4spd
I think you have enough sense not to put the epoxy primer on it if the metal was still wet from the rinse.
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenmoonshine
I then washed it all off with a water hose and rag (it dries on hard) and dried with a lint free shop towel.
Yes I made sure that it was dry and lint free but I didnt do any sanding on it before the epoxy because the instructions dint say to. I figured that I had sanded it good enough before I applied the prep etch, well lets hope so eh

GM
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2010, 12:48 PM
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I don't think you have to worry, it's on there.
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Old 06-15-2011, 08:00 PM
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Edwsupply

Eastwood fast etch first with a red scuff pad scrubb it good rinse clear dry the epoxy then urathane primer
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2011, 10:40 PM
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i think you will have problems,with etch you do about 12 sqaure inches at a time in a well ventilated area.scrub with a fine wire brush,dont let it dry.
have 2 clean towels and an air hose handy.take a soaking wet towel and rinse it off,then scrub dry with a dry towel/rag.then immediatly blow dry.
if stil rusty repeat.you need a soaking towel to nuetrilize the acid.too big an area gets flash rust.you should only see black spots left if any.use a magnifying glass to make sure its clean.you can sand rust outta the pits unless you want paper thin metal after
this is my car after it was done.

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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2011, 06:05 AM
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This Thread Was Sept Of 2010. I Think It's Painted By Now

burnout28 That sure looks like a firebird to me. This thread was posted in sept of 2010. I hope it has been painted by now.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2011, 06:45 AM
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Not if it was my car...I'm embarresd to say I havent got much done this year,been too busy ..
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