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Old 12-25-2008, 04:47 PM
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Help with SBC 350 Crate engine ID / Specs & more

I removed my valve covers and got some cylinder head casting numbers to figure out here. I also have a few questions related to this engine which I would like help figuring out how to build.

Driver Side Head Shot:



Driver Side Numbers:



Top says 86, but appears to be upside down. Below that you have 057. To the right it says 14096217.

Passenger Side Numbers:



Top says 86, but appears to be upside down. Below that you have 139. To the right it says 14096217.

Both Heads Are Marked:



I have done some research on my own, and based on what I came up with it was that this is a 350 and the heads are 64cc. Intake 1.94 and Exhaust 1.5. Has 72 bolt angles. Cylinder head assembly was used on 285 hp 350 engine (P/N 12353641). That is about all I could come up with.

I am looking to find out, more about this engine, specifically all the specs / dimensions if possible. My goal ultimately would be to build a 383 combo but I will discuss that later once I find out what I'm working with here.

Any help would be most appreciated, thanks!

- Brett (Happy Holidays Everyone!)

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Old 12-25-2008, 05:14 PM
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Brett, is this where you found your information? It's a great resource.

http://www.mortec.com/
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Old 12-25-2008, 05:45 PM
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What vehicle did the motor come from originally? There have beed a LOT of variations of the 350 through the years.

But specifically...if you're wanting to build that block up, drop the oil pan and look at the mains. If they're two bolt, I wouldn't bother. Four bolt...and you've got something to work with.
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Old 12-25-2008, 05:45 PM
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I checked out that website, I was a little confused by the 1955-1986 dates on my parts, because all the other resources I located said the heads were 1987 or 1988. I have center bolt valve covers, I don't know if that matters or not?
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Old 12-25-2008, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filmjay
What vehicle did the motor come from originally? There have beed a LOT of variations of the 350 through the years.

But specifically...if you're wanting to build that block up, drop the oil pan and look at the mains. If they're two bolt, I wouldn't bother. Four bolt...and you've got something to work with.
I was told it was a crate engine from Chevy or GM, and installed 5 years ago. The guy lied about absolutely everything from the CFM of the carb, to the rear gear ratio so I'm just going to have to do what you said, and take things apart to learn anymore about it. I hope its a 4 bolt main! I was told by someone this is a truck / suv application so it might just be.
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Old 12-25-2008, 06:25 PM
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Don't be put off if it's a 2-bolt, if it checks out OK. They can take plenty of abuse. If you're considering nitrous or force feeding it, then I'd be more concerned. My blown 383 was a .010/.020, 2-bolt block machined for splayed billet 4-bolt caps, that's always an option.
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Old 12-25-2008, 06:33 PM
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Slow down! You don't need to tear into the engine just yet. The engine noise might not be serious.

First check the ignition timing.

Make sure all vacuum hoses attached to the carburetor are fastened properly and are not cracked and leaking. Set the idle at 800rpms with the vacuum advance unplugged and the vacuum port capped. Set the total timing at 36 degrees at 3500rpm.

Drive the car and listen closely for detonation when under load. You may need to back the timing off a degree or two.

It would also be wise to check for loose rocker arm adjusting nuts. The noise you described in your earlier post can come from a number of sources.

I have to respectfully disagree with Filmjay. A 2 bolt main block will be fine for your application. You'll break a pile of those 5-speeds before you approach the horsepower limit of a 2 bolt block.
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Old 12-25-2008, 07:17 PM
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All the vacuum lines are new / newer, I checked over them twice and they all seem to be excellent no leaks that I can see or hear.. don't have a vacuum tester though.

I am afraid to set the idle, because the engines making banging sounds and wants to die. I can't tune the carburetor because of how bad it's running, and after installing 8 brand new correct spark plugs it only got worse some how.

I'm probably going to end up needing someone who knows what they are doing to come over and help me go through all of these steps so I can learn and better understand all the systems of an old engine like this.

I feel like I'm in over my head, although I am determined to get this car on the road someday.
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Old 12-25-2008, 08:06 PM
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It might be a GM crate engine, but it not the GM economy crate 350 or the basic GMPP 350 that are currently advertised. Both of these engines use heads with the old style perimeter bolt valve covers, and they are the older two-piece rear main seal.

Since it a centerbolt valve cover, its either an OEM replacement 350 crate engine for a post-86 vehicle, or its one of the higher performance crate engines. In most cases the direct OEM replacement 350's are decent engines, but relatively low horsepower.

Based on the loud noise you are describing, first pull off the inspection cover and check the torque converter bolts. Also check the bolts that hold the motor to the engine. If either of these are loose, it can make a really nasty sounding noise when the engine is idling.

Bruce
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Old 12-25-2008, 08:37 PM
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Hey, got your PM. Sounds like you're going about everything the right way.

Can you video the noise and put it up so we can hear it?
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Old 12-25-2008, 09:27 PM
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Yes, I can probably make a video tomorrow and post it here as long as the weather isn't rainy or snowing I should have it up tomorrow.
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Old 12-26-2008, 10:57 AM
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*Edit*

Removed vids of engine misfire, the distributor cap itself, was made incorrectly, I noticed the rotor was only striking 4 of the 8 tabs dead center, the others it was nearly missing completely. I took care of that, and now the engine sounds / looks / feels to be running decent, minus some lifter chattering going on.

That's next..

Last edited by 5_speed; 12-26-2008 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 12-26-2008, 12:00 PM
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Hard to tell from the Vid sound. Maybe exhaust gasket or burnt exhaust valve?? Retarded timing can cause backfire out exhaust.
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Old 12-26-2008, 03:13 PM
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Anybody know what the timing is supposed to be on this engine?

Is there any way to tell what kinda cam is in there, like solid or hydraulic or does it matter for doing the valve lash adjustment? I need to stop all that clicking and clacking.

Also - It has a Holley 600, how can I be sure I'm not running too rich or too lean? I got it running, I got it running pretty good, and I even got it to start with out putting gas down the carb like I had to before, I just crank it over and it starts quickly as long as I pump the gas when I turn the key.
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Old 12-26-2008, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5_speed
Anybody know what the timing is supposed to be on this engine?

Is there any way to tell what kinda cam is in there, like solid or hydraulic or does it matter for doing the valve lash adjustment? I need to stop all that clicking and clacking.

Also - It has a Holley 600, how can I be sure I'm not running too rich or too lean? I got it running, I got it running pretty good, and I even got it to start with out putting gas down the carb like I had to before, I just crank it over and it starts quickly as long as I pump the gas when I turn the key.
Start at 8*. Take it from there.

Depeding on the cam, I don't see you going over 10*.

Did I say that to you before? Cap., rotor, wires? I typically would. Make sure your basics are coverd.
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