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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2011, 01:21 PM
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I think I got it.

rotor button to ground stays at 1.
rotor button to battery stays at 1.

New coil then.

Thanks a lot for those links, very helpful.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2011, 02:13 PM
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Check the coil from the other dizzy It may be ok.
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:15 PM
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Nope, crap. It's all crap lol.

I got another one, gonna see if it works.
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:16 PM
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hey should I put any dielectric grease anywhere like under the ignition module?
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0pyders
hey should I put any dielectric grease anywhere like under the ignition module?
Not dielectric grease, that would hold heat into the module = BAD. You need silicone heat sink compound for under the module, to help transfer heat away from the module.
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:26 PM
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oh ok thanks for the save.

still got a problem.
new coil in and i still can't get a reading from it, just says 1.
I had to reuse the rotor button because the new one didn't come with it, can the rotor button go bad?
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2011, 03:47 PM
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I got .8 measuring the BATT and TACH.

Using the horseshoe symbol thing at 20k, no readings on either secondary.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2011, 05:34 PM
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here's how I installed it. anybody see anything wrong?











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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2011, 07:35 PM
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Looks fine opyders.no problem
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2011, 07:40 PM
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ok cool, at least I know I put it together right. I'm gonna try and get a new bushing spring thingy, see if that fixes the problem.
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Old 04-10-2011, 08:18 PM
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On my ignition wire that plugs into the BATT of the distributor..
I got 12 volts without cranking but when it cranks it goes down to 10 volts. Could that be the problem?

I just ripped the wire from a broken radio. hmm..
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