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Old 08-20-2010, 05:09 AM
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Help! Strange Electrical Problem...67 Camaro

Hi everybody, I've used this site many times to research solutions to problems and I appreciate the vast knowledge of the members. This is my first post.
I have a 67 Camaro 327 4 speed. I recently did a cam swap and have ended up with a very strange issue. Everything went fine until approximately mile 30 or so. The car was running a bit warm (200) but otherwise great, and then I turned the radio on and suddenly had a complete electrical shutdown. Everything went dead, just like the key had been turned to the off position. I pushed it to a parking lot and started scratching my head. After maybe 10 min, it started right back up. I shrugged and decided to try to make it the <2 miles home. It died again, but this time would not start back up for over an hour. I turned the headlights on at a sketchy intersection, and it died again. The next morning, it fired right back up and I drove it the final 1/2 mile home.
During the cam swap, i dropped a wrench that arced between the positive terminal on the alternator and the inner wheel well. I know i'm supposed to disconnect the batt before working on it, consider this a lesson learned. I didn't think it did anything, but now i have this issue.
Idea #1- Voltage regulator was damaged by the wrench grounding. The fusable link at the voltage regulator has been replaced by a solid wire. Repair= replace voltage regulator.
Idea #2- Ignition switch failure. Repair= replace ignition housing.
Idea #3- Bad ground somewhere? Repair= go hunting for bad grounds.
I have limited electrical experience, but have wired accessories, stereo systems, etc. I have a multi-meter to help. Any diagnostic tips would be appreciated, I don't even know where to start. Any opinions about what might have happened would be great.

I need to get it running so i can get it registered!!!

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Old 08-20-2010, 06:11 AM
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since you had to remove the distributor and intake manifold to do the work, and now that your having electrical issues tells me that you pinched a wire either under the intake, or the distributor during the process. maybe even under one of the valve covers. id start looking there.
also, the thought of a ground not being hooked back up comes to mind as well. gl
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Old 08-20-2010, 06:16 AM
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Edit- Wiring diagram.

Last edited by cobalt327; 08-20-2010 at 06:30 AM. Reason: Add link.
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Old 08-20-2010, 04:54 PM
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This is my guess.
Camaros used as many as (4) fusible links to protect the wiring.
The wire that feeds the fuse block is one of them.
I would replace this wire's fusible link. DO NOT bypass it. Replace it or fuse it with a 50 amp fuse.
You can test this wire by connecting a test light between the Battery + terminal and the main wire leading to the fuse block. Usually red and larger that the others -- #12. If the test light lights while the car is dead, This is the bad link.

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Old 08-20-2010, 07:21 PM
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I would bet you damaged on of teh main connections for the grounding or the positive cable.

Cahck the battery cables at teh block and starter. Take them right off and clean them. You may have arced across one with the full battery amperage potential during the short.
Also check the ground straps that goe from teh hear to teh firewall. They get pretty rotted and the current surge may have done one of them in.
I dont think it is a fuse link as if it blew it would not come back. The extra load of the lights could be just enough to kill a bad connection.
A good way to see if you are loosing the ground is while it is dead, use a jumper cable to go from the negative battery terminal to the block and the body to see if it lights back up.

When you short the battery to the body it is the grounding system that usually gets hurt. The main path to the body ground to the battery is usually through the straps that go from the heads to the firewall.
Some cars also have a ground pigtail from the battery to the fender or core support. If you have one check it.
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Old 08-20-2010, 08:08 PM
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I looked at the wiring cobalt posted and It might be a good idea to look at the horn relay ( B+ JUNCTION) to Ig sw. and also the bulkhead connector.Looks like a fuse link in between the horn relay connection and the bulkhead check both sides with a test light while wiggling the wire . If a fuse link is burnt it may not look like it. I grab it and see if it "stretches" and if it does it will pull apart. ( Burnt in half inside) you wont necessarilly see it burnt in half as it doent allways melt the outside ( insulation) off the link
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Old 08-29-2010, 12:01 AM
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Loss of amperage Radio on---

I think bad cables, or the battery terminals, of the battery itself, bad firewall connector for accessory feed, Oh the key opperated switch itself on top of the steering column, can all act that way, alternator should show 13+ volts when running.Accessory wires on the alternator are a no no-- Count the ground wires from the battery posts to frame, grounding the battery negative cable to the water outlet on the manifold is a common mistake even from the factory, and check wire guages,

Last edited by randolphi; 08-29-2010 at 12:09 AM. Reason: after thoufht
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