help w/brakes - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2005, 05:23 AM
Don Meyer's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: St Cloud,Fl
Posts: 492
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
help w/brakes

I do not have room for a power booster. I have seen advertised a remote booster & would like to get some feedback before spending $500+.

If any of you have experience w/one of these I'd like to hear what you think of it.

Thanks Don Meyer(I have att a picture of my latest priject)
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0074.JPG
Views:	58
Size:	30.3 KB
ID:	7882  

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2005, 08:07 PM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,388
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
They work. I have an old 50s HydroVac on my Willys but the modern ones work exactly the same. I use an early 70s Chrysler dual master cylinder and inserted the booster in the line going to the front wheels.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2005, 08:11 PM
ragenrat638's Avatar
CRASH TEST DUMMY !!!!!!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: aurora il
Age: 53
Posts: 83
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
hey..don
i have a 7" booster just sitting here...
don't your truck use a booster mounted under the floor??
anyway i have a 7" booster mounted under the floor sitting here doing nothing..
i have used a vacuum remote pump...waste of money...if your engine supply's enough vacuum to run a booster....do it.
your pal mark
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2005, 09:03 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 12,946
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 760
Thanked 1,013 Times in 849 Posts
Don, you don't have to mount the mc and booster on the firewall. You can mount it anywhere on the truck and operate it with a heavy-duty cable such as the ones offered by Cablecraft. Rig up a bellcrank on the engine side of the firewall to introduce "pull" into the cable and another bellcrank at the booster to introduce "push" into the booster.
http://www.hersinc.net/cablecraft%20...%20cables.html

Or, you could adapt a hydrovac system off a 70's Cadillac or Lincoln that operates off power steering pump pressure.

I've known you long enough from the other forum to know that you can do anything with anything.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2005, 11:28 PM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,388
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Wow! No way in the world I would operate a brake system with a cable/bellcrank system!!! Don't care who makes it or what their sales pitch is, introducing ANY extra link in a brake actuating system is materially increasing the likelihood of catastrophic failure. It's a statistical certainty. Anyway, the remote booster talked about here is designed to be bolted anywhere on the car - all it needs is an 'guzinta' and 'guzouta' connection in the front and/or rear brake lines. Front is the obvious choice since front brakes do +60% of the braking work and no harm is done if they lock up. Big harm is done if the rears lock up first. Don't ask how I know that.

Here is a dual remote unit for both front and rear brake lines.


Here is a front-only single booster.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2005, 01:40 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 12,946
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 760
Thanked 1,013 Times in 849 Posts
"Wow! No way in the world I would operate a brake system with a cable/bellcrank system!!!"

I guess you'd better find another way to operate emergency/parking brakes then.

Willys, normally I wouldn't respond to a knee-jerk reaction post such as yours, but you've obviously been around the block a time or two like I have and I feel I owe you the respect of an explanation.

Yes, it is a statistical certainty that all things made by man will eventually fail. The only thing that you, I and Don Meyer can do is rely on our experience of things mechanical and design them to the best of our ability to do the job properly over a certain number of duty cycles. Don is an engineer and I'm certain that with the number of projects he has done, including frame swaps, he's capable of constructing a safe and efficient cable/bellcrank arrangement. Hell, I'm no engineer and I could do it, based simply on the scores of projects I've done over the last 50 years.

I began thinking about this after using a bellcrank arrangement from Kugel to mount the booster/mc under dash on my last T project.

Cablecraft can supply pull cables with clevis ends designed for either a 1,500 lb. or 3,000 lb. pull. Now, figuring that the average driver can exert about 100 lbs. of force on the foot pad of the brake pedal and that the pad to actuating rod ratio on most power brake systems is about 4:1, that's a pull on the cable and bellcranks of about 400 lbs. Based on a 3.75:1 safety factor and the ability to bend a 5" radius, the 1,500 lb. cable assembly would be my choice.

Again, I'm the new kid on the block here and don't want to get in a pissing match with a senior member, but I also don't want you to think that I just fell off a turnip truck and don't know anything.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2005, 06:39 PM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,388
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
I am a practicing mechanical engineer so I understand your contention that you could design a theoretically infallible unit. But I have also been humbled over 30 years of experience by bullet proof designs I and other engineers have done right by the book that took a dump. There are just too many robust, more dependable solutions to brake problems that I wouldn't be comfortable introducing more degrees of freedom which result in more chances for failure. Same with steering components. And of course emergency brakes are a 'just barely' static braking system on a level with a 2 x 4 chock block that very few people trust and for good reason!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2005, 07:02 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 12,946
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 760
Thanked 1,013 Times in 849 Posts
"But I have also been humbled over 30 years of experience by bullet proof designs I and other engineers have done right by the book that took a dump."

I too have experienced failure and accept your explanation
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2005, 09:03 PM
71 c-10's Avatar
just a kid and his truck
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: VA
Age: 27
Posts: 351
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
some bigger suburbans, tahoes and pick ups such as the 2500's use the power stearing boster set up, iv also seen them on a 95 astro van... dont take up much room, iv never herd of them untell recently, i would kind of like to know how they work.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2005, 09:40 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 12,946
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 760
Thanked 1,013 Times in 849 Posts
http://msxml.excite.com/info.xcite/s...boost%2Bbrakes

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...=Google+Search

I've seen it spelled 2 ways, hydroboost and hydraboost.

There was a neat article on line where a guy pirated the whole system off a mid-70's Cadillac and fitted it on his ride. I can't find it just now, maybe you'll run across it in the links above.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2005, 07:22 AM
ocean_toad's Avatar
Fabricating speed and control
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: TN
Age: 51
Posts: 31
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have a brand new Hydraboost unit that I will sell.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2005, 04:50 PM
Don Meyer's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: St Cloud,Fl
Posts: 492
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I have a Caddy Hydroboost on the RR now. The problem is I can not find a mobile service to make the lines.

The car is on a hoist so i think they would be easy to be make .

You can not do the old weldng rod template because the hose will not twist.....it must have the correct orientaion at the ends........this is why I'm loking for an alternative.

Don
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2005, 06:03 PM
ocean_toad's Avatar
Fabricating speed and control
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: TN
Age: 51
Posts: 31
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Don
Try going to your local hose shop and get the correct hose ends. Make sure you get enough line as well. Then you can cut them to fit and take them back and get them crimped on.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:21 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.