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Help with the wet sand

3K views 39 replies 7 participants last post by  65AmazonforDestiny 
#1 ·
The car is primered. My brother is the master, but now we are fighting and I need help.
First of all I have never mixed paint and chemicals. The trunk has not been primered yet and there are spots he has showing from the last primer wetsand. The body is straight and ready for final primer stage where I need to cover spots...so....
The car is dusty from sitting 1 week. What should I do at this point? Do I clean the car with wax/grease remover? Should I clean the bondoed trunk with that cleaner before I spray? And what pressure do I need set on my primer sprayer?
If I am correct I mix 2 parts primer and one part what ever is in that small can, right?
I clean the car, use a tacky cloth and I am good to go?
and what help can you give me with the single stage paint?
Please feel free to give me suggestions...i am scared of doing this by myself...but i got to while the weather is good. Help me get to the next stage. I sparay the primer and then wet sand a final time ,right? What kind of paper? 2000?
 
#31 ·
wet sanding the single stage.

so I am not there yet Ctclops, but I found a thread on the single stage wetsand. It is over a 100 days old so I might not get a reply.Not sure I want to attempt a new post since this is in the area of wetsand.
What will it look like if I do not wetsand the single stage? We are using starlight purple on dark grey primer.
Would the buff and polish be enough? I do want a good shine, but cannot afford to screw the job up. What is the other option and what should I expect as a result?
 
#32 ·
Do one panel at a time and be slow about it. Check the panel often with a towel or squegee. When you get the orange peel nearly saned flat, step up to 1500 grit or 2000 grit. All of the colorsanding is done wet. I use a little dish liquid in my water. Once you get to 2500 grit, you should be able to polish up an awesome shine with a foam or wool polishing pad on your buffer. I'll check on here for a Wiki on colorsanding.
 
#35 ·
65AmazonforDestiny

I have read though the suggestions and they are all good. Most did not answered your question. If I was you, (and I was last year) I would purchase Rich Evans video; Metal to Paint. You can buy it at Auto Body Depot. I was just like you one year ago. Puzzled and needed help. I went to a car show last Thursday night, (first time there) and received Best of Show. Went to a show on Sunday where there were 70 cars and take a first place award. If you research more you will have a paint job you can be happy with. If you try to paint before the season cools down you will be stripping the car this winter.

I would be happy to help, just contact me if you are interested.

Kirk ;)

PS check out the album
 
#36 ·
Is 2000 grit the right paper for this next to last primering?
DO NOT wet sand with 2000 for priming. Sand your primer or old paint with 600. Your fine paper is for cutting and buffing. If you lay your single stage down smooth you won't need to sand. And if it is metallic single stage you won't want to sand it. What it sound like is that you need to hook up with someone in your area to give you a hand, or a bodyshop person that you can go see firsthand. There are many tutorials online if you do a search. First off, you are going to get yourself in trouble because you already admitted that you are not sure what you are doing, afraid to tackle it yourself, AND.....you are in a hurry. Very, very bad combination.

I am limited on time and am about to just go by feel.
Also what you need to do is slow down and ask the questions first. From what I have read in the thread, you have done something, THEN ask if it was done right. First off I am assuming you sanded with 2000 then primed. Then you and your brother get into it. You buy guns (don't know what type), prime some more but never asked what size of tip you should use or what gun to use. A set of three could be any type from an el-cheapo to shoot house paint through to a higher end set. You really need to get thing straightened out before ever thinking of shooting paint. If you sanded the whole car with 2000 then primed, stop the process and start over. The panels need to be roughed up a little better for adhesion. Sand everything complete with the proper paper, list on here the items that you are using as they might not even be compatable, and take things a step at a time. All for the fact is that you can get a bundle wrapped up in materials. You may be better off taking it to Maaco and let them spray it with your paint.
 
#37 ·
kirkschopped67 said:
65AmazonforDestiny

I have read though the suggestions and they are all good. Most did not answered your question. If I was you, (and I was last year) I would purchase Rich Evans video; Metal to Paint. You can buy it at Auto Body Depot. I was just like you one year ago. Puzzled and needed help. I went to a car show last Thursday night, (first time there) and received Best of Show. Went to a show on Sunday where there were 70 cars and take a first place award. If you research more you will have a paint job you can be happy with. If you try to paint before the season cools down you will be stripping the car this winter.

I would be happy to help, just contact me if you are interested.

Kirk ;)

PS check out the album
So should I wait? I am near end of primer work. What is the best temp to paint? Should it be later in September(pacific northwest)...It does get hot in my covered work areas(covered with semi clear heavt plastic).
It is a single stage metalic paint, the color shown in my avitar.
 
#38 ·
Kevin45 said:
DO NOT wet sand with 2000 for priming. Sand your primer or old paint with 600. Your fine paper is for cutting and buffing. If you lay your single stage down smooth you won't need to sand. And if it is metallic single stage you won't want to sand it. What it sound like is that you need to hook up with someone in your area to give you a hand, or a bodyshop person that you can go see firsthand. There are many tutorials online if you do a search. First off, you are going to get yourself in trouble because you already admitted that you are not sure what you are doing, afraid to tackle it yourself, AND.....you are in a hurry. Very, very bad combination.



Also what you need to do is slow down and ask the questions first. From what I have read in the thread, you have done something, THEN ask if it was done right. First off I am assuming you sanded with 2000 then primed. Then you and your brother get into it. You buy guns (don't know what type), prime some more but never asked what size of tip you should use or what gun to use. A set of three could be any type from an el-cheapo to shoot house paint through to a higher end set. You really need to get thing straightened out before ever thinking of shooting paint. If you sanded the whole car with 2000 then primed, stop the process and start over. The panels need to be roughed up a little better for adhesion. Sand everything complete with the proper paper, list on here the items that you are using as they might not even be compatable, and take things a step at a time. All for the fact is that you can get a bundle wrapped up in materials. You may be better off taking it to Maaco and let them spray it with your paint.
My brother did the whole car up to this last wet sand(it is 600).
I have not wet sanded yet after the wax remover and tacky and primer. I was nescessary to wet sand a bit more since(I used the 600). I have yet to wet sand...just checking to see if someone had the info. The guns are a good set-hvlp or something like that, and were being used all along. I did have extra info coming in on the outside and was confirming here. Sorry my post upset you. I would rather not go to maaco...I have seen some of the work they do locally and feel i can do better. Peace.
I did say I have 2000 paper, but i looked and it is actually 600 put in that package...was my brothers. Sorry for confusing you or anyone in the post
Yes I am worried that the work could be damaged by upcoming weather, as i have no garage for storage. Please understand my hurried and worried concerns. I have since been reading and asking a ton of questions and feel i am getting somewhere. I guess that it all just takes time. Sorry if it seems i am repeating myself. I came to the forum for help. I can not go back to last year, and the differences will not be resolved with my bro-I have tried. So ..the usual finger i get is what i expect...regardless...the show must go on. I think today i will begin the wetsand.
 
#39 ·
I am trying to understand at what level of paint job you would like to end up with. As you see I live on the west coast also. I understand your time frame. Now it is to hot to paint in the building that you have described. I feel you could paint in mid Oct. with better results. You said that you want the paint to have a good shine to it. Are you going to show it and want to get awards? Did you look at the paint on the truck I just finished. Is that what you want?

You could have the video I spoke about in your hands by the end of the week. After watching it and making notes all weekend with your bother, I believe you would have a better direction. I watched that video more than 20 times before I started to apply primer.

Maybe talking on the phone would speed this up. I will PM my phone number to you so you can call if you would like.

Kirk :welcome:
 
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