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Old 06-09-2014, 05:57 PM
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Heres One The Tech. Can't Solve

I just installed a keyless entry system in my '42 COE and it doesn't work properly. When I press the one button, for the drivers door, the door opens slightly (no poppers yet). When I press it again, all I hear is the relay clicking, but the door not opening. The same is true for the other door. However, if the button is pushed for the one door I cannot push the other button for the other door because it won't work (relay clicking again). I have to wait at least a minute before either door will work. If I ground the wire from the relay to activate the doors (without the key fobs) they work repeatedly (no waiting time). Seems the problem is with the key fobs that are to activate the doors???? It is a REC43T Keyless entry system. I don't know what to do at this point as the technical people cannot figure it out and they are supposed to know more than I do, since they designed the system. After 1 hour they left me rudderless. Any geniuses out there?

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Old 06-09-2014, 06:36 PM
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How are the batteries for the fobs? Where is the antenna located, sometimes depending on antenna location you might get attenuation from the sheet metal. As far as not being able to unlock the other door after the 1st until waiting 1 min........ If wired IAW manufacturers instructions....sounds like a faulty circuit board.
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Old 06-09-2014, 07:30 PM
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I am only guessing as I do not have the wiring diagram in front of me but it sounds like the brain grounds the relay to activate your solenoids. Is this correct? It sounds like the brain cant handle the repeated current to it. To verify this back probe the ground side of the relay trigger with a volt meter when it wont open the door. If you have over .3v you have a problem in the brain or the wire.
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:21 PM
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The wiring schematic as written shows a 4 pin plug where the
red wire=constant12v,
black wire=neg. ground,
blue wire=output #3,
green wire=output #4 (not used) and then a 3 pin plug where the
green wire=(-) output #1
center pin= (+) 12 volts output
blue wire=output #2

Apparently when activated the outputs supply 500mA (-)Negative ground (500 milliamps=1/2 amp of ground)

I have the key fob 6" away from the antenna and it doesn't make any difference in operation.

I will check the output with a meter and see what I get.
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Old 06-09-2014, 09:12 PM
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Here's my wiring diagram that I used for the hookup. As far as getting .3 with the probe, I'm nowhere even close and so I assume that I wired something backwards or even wrong. Hope the picture turns out.
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Old 06-09-2014, 10:48 PM
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The diagram is helpful. Pin 86 of the relay should be .3v or less when back probed and triggered. What reading were you getting?
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27Tall T (06-10-2014)
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Old 06-10-2014, 03:54 AM
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I have never installed one of these but it appears to be a decent system.

I assume, you have the 2 button type, you have set the delay dip sw for min delay.

You might try a different type relay, I know it sounds like a long shot..... but if the relays are tripping but not switching hard enough to allow current flow, might be a relay issue.

You might try re-doing the ground connection point.

I'd run a jumper from terminal 85 to 30 and then to your fused +12 source, you don't need two wires as indicated in your diagram. I normally just crimp two wires into one spade connector, one goes to the pwr source the other, 3" long, to the coil side of the relay etc.....
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:29 AM
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When I probe pin 86 I get 12 volts regardless when it is probed (before or after door is unlatched), which doesn't make sense to me.
As for the dip switches (time pulse, on demand, or latch/unlatch), they were tried in each setting to no avail.
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:40 AM
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Sounds like the module is no good. Over heating maybe. It most likely is cooling down after it sits for a while. A DVOM meter might not be quick enough to catch the pulse from the module. You may want to use a test light.

Are there switches on the doors so the system knows they are open?

The fact that it works after it sits for a while and both doors have the same symptoms would lead me to believe something is cooling down in the control enough to work again.
The fob only triggers the module if it is firing the solenoids it is working so I dont think that is the issue
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:37 AM
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There are no switches in the doors; the only way to open them from the outside is by the fob other than the inner door handle. I did suspect the module, but I'm not quite sure as to why it is behaving the way it does. You would think that the relays are suspect, but I've replaced them and still have the problem. If it is the module than I'll have to look for another version of a keyless entry. (Should have left the door handles on!)
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:03 AM
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relay coil polarity

Tall T, Try reversing the 85 & 86 connections on both relays. While most automotive relays are not polarity sensitive, some have an internal suppression diode across the coil. In the case of relays having the internal diode, 86 is normally positive. I have made a habit of always using 86 as the positive side for this reason.
The diode is there to suppress the voltage spike created when the coil is deenergized. If reversing your connections does not clear up the problem, you may need to add a diode in parallel with the coil as the back flow EMF from the coil may be locking up your output till the voltage bleeds down.
Nolan
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Old 06-10-2014, 03:59 PM
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The issue as I see it....... the pulse from the module isn't long enough for the relay to activate and switch the current, The little I could find on the system.... stated the dip switches extended the "on time" of the relay.... which is what you need. If the dips have no effect, then .... my guess is the module is bad.
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Old 06-10-2014, 04:26 PM
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Instructions

EOD, You might be on to something. Appears that you have to remove a programming jumper to adjust the pulse time with a pot, then reinstall the jumper. Here's a PDF instruction sheet for ya'll. Nolan

http://www.caralarm.com/manuals-inst...ga/rec-43t.pdf
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:05 PM
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When I was on the line with the "techy" we tried the dip switches in all the locations and it didn't make any difference. At this time I really want to thank all of you for taking the time to figure this one out. I just hate it when something gets the best of me ......and so a little help can go a long way.
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Old 06-11-2014, 07:13 PM
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"Olnolan", I've reversed #85 and #86 and I still have the same problem. Output #3 and #4 are not used (found on the 4 pin block) and #1 and #2 on the 3 pin block are the only ones used. I wonder if I used only #1 on the 3 pin block and #4 on the 4 pin block whether this would cure the problem? I'm getting desperate and realize that I may have to replace the entire unit. Anybody recommend another keyless entry? This is a simple system, but only if it works. Another idea......could the solenoids be demanding too much current, causing the relays to ?????
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